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Q's on hand drilling the H2 wheel

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I've done searches and read many descriptions on how to drill out the H2 rims. I read about someone using a hole saw, but wasn't quite sure what they had in mind. The only hole saws that big I have seen are the cheap Lennox style with saw teeth that are more designed for wood or drywall. Is this what folks have used? How many did you go through?



What other hand methods will work? I think I can borrow a die grinder.



TIA, Dave
 
Grainger sells a Starrett or Milwaukee brand 4 3/4" bi-metal hole saw that will cut through the aluminum without any problem. You need to take off too much in my opinion to only use a die grinder, you can use it to clean up the cut after though.
 
ThomasLawrence said:
Wait a minute... you guys are drilling out the center of a hub-centric wheel by hand? :eek:



I've read that they are in fact lug centric is this wrong? I have not yet drilled, but planning to tomorrow.



the lug holes have a nice bevel that sure looks like it would hold the wheel true to the lug. I just picked up a nice low mileage set for pretty cheap, but I sure dont want to ruin them.



Dave
 
I've read that they are in fact lug centric is this wrong?
I don't know for sure... I was assuming they were hub-centric just like the stock wheels. If they are in fact lug-centric, then please ignore my histrionics, and drill away :)
 
From what Ive gathered the H2 rims are lug centric. . I know plenty of guys that do it by hand with no issues. . I plan do to it by hand if needed when I put my set on my jeep. .

Scott
 
I felt better putting them on my lathe. :) One concern is when it's time to balance the tires. If the hole is off, the balance will be off too.
 
H2s are lug centric. The only problem with a holesaw is starting it. There is a small chamfer to captivate the OD of the saw but start with really slow rpms until you can't see the gullet of the saw teeth anymore. Then you could increase the rpms a little more, don't go too fast though. If a tooth grabs you'll scratch the h3ll out of the wheel.

Another option is a mini grinder with a carbide porting bit, followed by a barrel sander bit just to clean it up and make it look prettier.

I just met someone who used a 4. 5" angle grinder, he said it just fit inside enough to grind it out... ..... I wouldn't rec'd that though, that's dangerous.
 
THanks for all the tips. I decided to pay someone to do it just to be safe. He is charging $60 for all 4. Seems like a good deal. I was a little concerned about balance issues, as well as breaking my wrist with the big hole hog. The hole saw was a $40 dollar part anyway, so it really wouldn't have saved me much to do it anyhow.
 
The company I found here in Boulder was simply called james engineering, I would call a few local tire shops and ask for local reccomendations; that's how I found this one.
 
See if you can find a good machine shop, to take . 007" off these wheels should not be much more than a couple of shop hours. Someone with a CNC machine would be great but I'd venture to say they are still paying for there machine so it might be a little pricey.



I too plan on changing mine to H2 wheels, Oo. but I am looking for a set of the chrome wheels. When I get my wheels I am going to do mine on the lathe at work. I will soon be in the market for a set of the chrome center caps for our trucks. (hint hint)
 
BigHammer made a good point that I had not really thought of. The wheels may very well be lugcentric ... ... ... but balancing machines are not, correct?



Any local machine shop can do this task reasonably and accurately.



Around here shop rates are generally $40. 00/hr for a manual machine and $60. 00/hr for a CNC machine. With that in mind a manual lathe or mill can perform the task equally well, and for less than the CNC rate.



Most shops, including my own have a 1 hour minimum, so expect to pay for at least an hour.



For $40 why go through the hassle when you can have a precision hole and no future balancing issues.



Not to mention the hole saw trying to spin you around the wheel, or the filings from a die grinder making you feel like you dove into a pile of fiberglass insulation :--)
 
The guys at James engineering did a superb job. They look like they came that way. Very glad I did not mess with it.



THe truck looks great and boy was I overdue for tires. Now I need some hubcaps for them.
 
With a little modification the ones that were on your stock wheels will fit. Check out Yo Hoot's site, he'll show you just how much to take off.

I plan on doing the same thing, but I am going to need some of the chrome caps.
 
This can be easily done on a manual milling machine (Bridgeport type) with a boring head. I have done it many times for other applications (never H-2 wheels but... )



IMHO doing something like this by hand will cause problems in the future with balancing and maybe stud breaking
 
grfraz said:
With a little modification the ones that were on your stock wheels will fit. Check out Yo Hoot's site, he'll show you just how much to take off.

I plan on doing the same thing, but I am going to need some of the chrome caps.



I did see yohoots site. nice description. I would modify mine, but the chrome on aluminum probably wouldn't look too good.
 
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