2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Quality Brakes

[Ghost Rider]

I'm gonna need some new pads, and maybe some rotors. Want to know who has good quality brake pads, and rotors that will stop better than stock that is reasonably priced. Oh, and not wanting a set that wears fast. Any advice?

 

[Dave M]

I just replaced mine with NAPA drilled/slotted rotors (135$ apiece) and NAPA Heavy Duty Pads ($70). I am very happy with them. I looked at Power Stop at summittracing.com. The driled or slotted rotors are directional (left, right). They can fit on the wrong side... and then they will need to be removed and everything redo... don't ask me how I know this. The NAPA ones were not offshore but USA made. You can get cheaper rotors from $50 up to $200 plus for cyrogenic frozen rotors.



This job can be a real pain getting the axle nut off and especially the hub/rotor assembly off the steering knuckle. Give yourself plenty of time for this job. Be carefull that the axle doesn't come out and mess up the inner axle seal and leak... uh... don't ask me why I know this. I replaced the stuck caliper sleeves, pins and rubbers and sanded off the caliper sliding surfaces and used caliper greese on them.



Don't go cheap on brakes. Here are my rotors installed on my 97:

 

[VolsFan]

Dave M, that looks like a nice setup you have. I was going to put the drilled rotors on mine but was advised not to, how are they holding up? I put Powerslot rotors with Hawk heavy duty pads, everything from autoanything.com cost me just under $200, think it was like 180 or something. Pain in the butt to get the old rotors off. I am pleased with how well they are holding up, I rotated my tires about a month ago and with almost 18,000 miles on the setup they look great, and I am hard on brakes, it is an auto truck too.

 

[Dave M]

I was going to get the Power Slot also with Hawk pads but I liked the NAPA ones because there were fewer holes which I felt would last longer and be stronger and not warp as easily... . less holes for more strength. I'm pleased with how they are holding up. I've heard alot of good feedback on the Power Slots tho.



You will notice there are alot less holes in the NAPA rotors verses the Power Slot or Power Stop rotors so I figure they will expess gases and heat better than non-drilled/slotted rotors.



I spend $270 for rotors and $70 for pads. Don't skimp on brakes.

 

[Grizzly]

I've been happy with the Mopar original equipped pads.

 

[Regcabguy]

I replaced my stock rotors initially with NAPA drilled/slotted premium rotors on my '99 and Hawk pads. It would barely stop and rolled right through intersections? Drilled and slotted rotors have 9% less stopping surface than stock. I went back to NAPA premium stock style rotors and Mopar pads and regained the same mediocre stopping I always had. Go figure. EGR's steel lines definitely firmed the pedal up some. I did the proportioning valve tsb also. With 2000# camper on my back 24/7 my '99 was always scary to drive.

 

[LostTrucker]

Don't waste your time and money with Hawk pads. :{ I tried them on my pickup, it takes a lot more petal psi to stop than before. I like the Napa severe duty pads the best. :-laf

 

[RSimmons]

I have about 35000 miles on a set of Wagner Premium pads and Wagner rotors (lifetime warrenty on both from oreilly auto parts). So far, they look great and stop real well.

 

[FLynes]

I've got almost 121,000 miles on my original rotors and pads..... LOVE THAT JAKE BRAKE!!!!!

 

[Ghost Rider]

Well, think I will stay with prem solid rotors and quality pads of some sort. What about some of these fancy calipers? Anyone try any of these and can tell a difference?

 

[kentdiesel]

I'm gonna need some new pads, and maybe some rotors. Want to know who has good quality brake pads, and rotors that will stop better than stock that is reasonably priced. Oh, and not wanting a set that wears fast. Any advice?

I've been satisfied with the Carbon Metallic Pads I bought at Auto Zone.



Also, if you haven't already upgraded the rear wheel cylinders to a larger size I highly recommended this modification for several reasons, stop much quicker, front brakes last much longer, less front brake dust, etc.

 

[Ghost Rider]

I just replaced a rear cylinder with stock replacement. Where/what is the type wheel cylinder i'm to look for. Also is there a negative to the oversized cylinder?

 

[kxhonda]

I was going to get the Power Slot also with Hawk pads but I liked the NAPA ones because there were fewer holes which I felt would last longer and be stronger and not warp as easily... . less holes for more strength. I'm pleased with how they are holding up. I've heard alot of good feedback on the Power Slots tho.



You will notice there are alot less holes in the NAPA rotors verses the Power Slot or Power Stop rotors so I figure they will expess gases and heat better than non-drilled/slotted rotors.



I spend $270 for rotors and $70 for pads. Don't skimp on brakes.

I just put PowerSlot rotors and the heavy duty Hawk pads on my truck and I am very impressed with the way they stop my dually.



My PowerSlot's don't have any holes in them at all, just slots. I have heard that the drilled rotors will crack right around the drilled holes. Just slotted rotors don't have this problem, plus you don't lose as much surface area.

 

[CTD12V]

There is a fair amount of info about the rear cylinder swap if you do a search. I replaced mine with Chevy 1-ton cylinders from Napa, P/N 37337. I think they were 1 3/16 inch, versus the 1 1/16 inch that were stock on my '98. Don't quote me on the measurements because I don't have them in front of me right now. The brakes are a little more grabby at slow speeds now, more like a Ford. I have a 100 gal fuel tank and a heavy toolbox in the back of my truck, so I don't know how they would be if I was empty.



CTD12V

 

[kentdiesel]

I just replaced a rear cylinder with stock replacement. Where/what is the type wheel cylinder i'm to look for. Also is there a negative to the oversized cylinder?

According to this brake info your 97 truck has 1. 0625" (1 1/16") Wheel cylinders



Dodge Ram Brake Specifications



I went from 1. 0625"( 1 1/16") to 1. 125" (1 1/8") dia.

Bought the WC at EGR Brakes: Raymold # 2037291

Nothing negative to say about 1 1/8" WC upgrade.

Keep the rear brakes adjusted close, I usually have to give mine a "click or two" every 10,000 mi.





I have not ran 1 3/16" wheel cylinders, judging by the way 1 1/8" perform on my truck, 1 3/16" would be to much. If I ran loaded all the time 1 3/16" would probably be OK.

I arc ground the shoes to fit the drums and I think thats why 1 1/8" is enough for my truck.



Hope this helps,

Kent

 

[WPeschel]

I've been happy with the Mopar original equipped pads.

I agree I have never seen or gotten more miles out of a set of aftermarket brakes than a set of OEM brakes, the price of OEM brakes may not be as bad as you may think... .

 

[NWhitney]

EBC Greenstuff

I have had both EBC Greenstuff SUV Supreme and Regular EBC Greenstuff SUV. I have 4 wheel disk and the rears do a lot but with those EBC's all the way around my truck stops almost as well as my wife's 04 Jetta TDI. (the germans make cars stop very very well if you did not know)



The brakes are almost the same as stock "cold" and then get more and more grip as they get hotter. You can not get these brakes too hot and fade them. I have had Mopars and top of the line Autozone's almost scare me to death!! I have got what some would call "retarded" with a truck that weights this much trying to get from point A to point B.



Nice thimg about this setup, you do not have to get new rotors to experience great brakes!! Me I don't care (mopar grew a brain right before they made my truck with front rotors OUTSIDE my hubs) but you poor guys with the rotors inside the hub will like this.



Cost was less than $180 for all the pads and were easy to install. Don't waste the money on the so called "Supreme" pads, they claim less dust but I could not tell (they were both less than stock).

 

[B KIRK]

My EBC pads cracked and crumbled within 500 miles.

Brakes-R-Us would not stand behind their warranty.

These were absolutely the worse pads I ever purchased or installed.

And constantly squealed when applied.

Went back to Hawks and am still pleased with them.



Brad

 

[CTD12V]

According to this brake info your 97 truck has 1. 0625" (1 1/16") Wheel cylinders



Dodge Ram Brake Specifications



I went from 1. 0625"( 1 1/16") to 1. 125" (1 1/8") dia.

Bought the WC at EGR Brakes: Raymold # 2037291

Nothing negative to say about 1 1/8" WC upgrade.

Keep the rear brakes adjusted close, I usually have to give mine a "click or two" every 10,000 mi.





I have not ran 1 3/16" wheel cylinders, judging by the way 1 1/8" perform on my truck, 1 3/16" would be to much. If I ran loaded all the time 1 3/16" would probably be OK.

I arc ground the shoes to fit the drums and I think thats why 1 1/8" is enough for my truck.



Hope this helps,

Kent

Kent, how did you arc grind the shoes?

 

[kentdiesel]

I have a old Ammco Brake shoe grinder. Not everbody has seen one of these so I'll give a brief description.

What you do is measure the drum then grind the shoes on a arc . 030 smaller than the drum.

After grinding practically all of the lining is contacting the drum and you have awesome brakes immediately with little wear in time. It makes for a very solid brake pedal and eliminates glazing the center of the lining while it gradually wears to fit the drum.



Brake shoe grinders started fading away when disc brakes came out on the front of vehicles.



The draw back to shoe grinding is the dust is very dangerous. I always roll the grinder outside, hook a shop vac to the exhaust port on the grinder and wear a respirator and I don't do this for a living, just on my personal vehicles.