2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Question about Dynos

[Sootscooter]

I am thinking about having my truck dynoed in the near future and was wondering... ... .



Are there different types of dynos available for our trucks?



Are different types of info available from different dynos?



What is your favorite dyno to run on and why?



Last, but certainly not least, any idea how much I can expect to pay to get my truck on one?



Thanks for the help



I think I posted in the wrong forum. Sorry

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Basically, either a Dynojet, or a Mustang - dynojet is strictly measuring time it takes to get a heavy weighted drum up to a given RPM - Mustang supposedly is capable of loading the drivetrain to determine power/torque - many guys here seem to prefer the mustang, but both seem to get the job done - it's just a good idea to stick with the same place/type if you want to track effects of changing power mods.



Usually costs around $60 or so for 2 or 3 runs, so you can try different stuff/techniques from one run to the next. Good luck - your setup should be good for around 400 HP and 800 ft. lbs. torque - keep us posted!

 

[Woodenhead]

Some things I recently learned from another member about Dynos.



Finding a dyno with heavy rollers (7000lbs+ is good) will help load the truck more and give a better idea of whats really going on. Makes sense when ya think about it, our motors need to be well loaded (like shoving a 7500 lb truck down the road frpm 0 to 90mph)



Also, dynos will use a correction factor to take your actual dyno hp/tq and convert it a standard SAE hp/tq to have a standard comparison with numbers from other areas/dynos. A big part of the correction factor includes elevation (correct lb/tq to sea level).



A dyno at a lower elevation will have a lower correction factor and will generaly give you more accurate and true numbers.



I can't take claim for this wisdom as it was recently explained to me by another member (I hope I got it all right).



Mike

 

[RowJ]

Place I went to was $60. 00 for each test. one test = 3 pulls. Need three to be sure your getting good readings. All three should be near the same. Don't really want to change things between pulls!



I made a deal for before and after dyno tests on 2 changes I planned to make (injectors & new turbo) = three dyno tests total; got the three for $45. 00 each.



Most common around these days is the Dyno Jet 248C. Mustangs are harder to find and can, I've been told, put load on their drums, as mentioned above.



All dynos have their strenghts & weaknesses. Suggest not getting hung up on exact hp numbers and use same dyno each time if planning on going back. I believe CTD's actually make a little more hp on the road than most dynos read (maybe 5%).

 

[LHartman]

I was going to dyno my truck and was told by a diesel shop that it was approx $150. 00. I said, "No thanks". The $60. 00 quote sounds more reasonable.



Loren

 

[Sootscooter]

Thanks for the replies, Ryan

 

[CNichols]

Now what exactly is the procedure for dynoing are trucks.



I have seen them do it on DynoJets on Horsepower TV and say on a manual car they make a 3rd gear pull to red line and get out of it and they have there reading.



Cause I was going to go to the local LS1 shop here in town that a friend works at and see if I could get my truck dynoed. But I know that are trucks are suck a diferent animal than anything they have dynoed there in the past im not sure how they should go about doing it.

 

[Turbo Thom]

The truck is put on the rollers and tied down. When ready the truck is powered to the rpm you want to pull from. In fifth gear. For the five speeds anyway. Then when told to, hammer down till the rpm's reaches de-fueling. In my case that was 3400. Put the gear box in neutral and let the drum stop the rear tires. You put on the brakes with the drum spinning, bad ju ju. That is one run and 400HP.



. . Preston. .

 

[CNichols]

K thanks for the info