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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Question for 12V aftermarket turbo users...

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Bye Bye Turbo!!!

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Piers HX35-16 from a first gen

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I Got a Phat shaft im in the middle of installing, What do I do with the boost line that came off the old wastegate and runs up to the AFC housing? Dont see any provision for it now on the new turbo. :cool:



P. S. working on 10 year old New England trucks sucks, Especially breaking off exhaust manifold studs flush with the head!!! :mad: #@$%!
 
WHOOEEE Oo. I like that answer because The bracket that holds it in place dosent work too well with the ATS Manifold I just put on. Whats the deal with this new turbo that it makes that line obsolete? I know the AFC gets its boost imput from the intake manifold, Whats that line do anyways?
 
Part 2

OK, Looking for some advice on the oil drain tube now, It seems to interfere with the wastegate actuator arm, and on the turbo discharge :confused: This thing gotta get tweaked or what??
 
Thanks for the reply, My sawzall with the help of some clamps and 1" hose figured it out for me already though. Glad its out of sight :-laf
 
My oil drain tube seemed to clear the wastegate actuator rod on the wastegate. I re-clocked the compressor housing and did not have to modify the oildrain tube. I will snap a pic of the orientation of the comp housing.



Just installed a PS62/12 too.
 
Wow you got lucky. I didnt know how to "clock" turbos so I simply cut the metal drain tube right past the actuator rod and bought some 1" silicone hose and ran it right down to the block drain pipe. I should have some Pics up shortly also... .
 
HEMI®Dart said:
"Clock" is a fancy word for loosening the bolts on the compressor housing and turning it where you want it.
I knida figured it was something simple like that, If I were to be able to clock it enough it probably would have saved me some time today.

Anyway I got it buttoned up this PM and took it out for a burn and it runs great. No lag and most boost I seen before I got scared and let up off the go pedal a little was in the 46psi range. Probably coulda got 50 but stock HG/No studs :{

Now the big question is, WHATS NEXT??? :cool:
 
O-ring it and stud it. I just got done doin that. Its awesome

I have one question though, did you break that turbo in before you ran it up to 46 psi?
 
TravisG said:
O-ring it and stud it. I just got done doin that. Its awesome

I have one question though, did you break that turbo in before you ran it up to 46 psi?

Travis, I just went easy for about 10 Miles or so. The Borg Warner instructions that came with it says let it idle for 3 Mins. to prevent oil starvation damage to the bearing system and purge any contaminates from the bearing housing. Thats about it for break-in

When you O-ringed, Did you use a stock, . 020 over or a copper HG?
 
I did not know that about break in. Sweet. I guess that is better than waiting a 100 miles or so.



Signal I used a . 020 over gasket, I have been told that you don't need to run a copper gasket on a street driven truck. I got a whole new head from J. R. at Adkins Diesel Performance I hope to have pictures up soon. It has new keepers springs etc. I haven't really got on it real hard yet but it definetely seems to be running a lot better. Spool up is faster and cruisng down the highway seems to be a little better in the flow department. A couple of more retorques and I will really start to hammer on her.
 
I run the same type setup on my truck and have never had any issue except I run a . 010 over gasket as I had plenty piston to valve clarence and didn't need to drop compression any more than was milled off the pistons.



Seems to take about 2-3 re-torques to get it fully set, but I run allot of wire protrusion..... more than most.



Jim
 
If running a . 020 on a 12V, Do you need to make any additional changes, (Timing,etc) Im currently at 16°. Just wasnt sure if there was something with the compression with the thicker gasket...
 
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