Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Question on installing auto trans temp gauge ?

[keimmmo]

Yes, the outlet line from the trans gives you the best information. I had the sensor in the pan on another truck... took forever to move. Really didn't give very helpful information.



Some guys put the sensor in the trans case. It might be fine, but I'm not convinced. I just can't see how it would respond like in the pressure line!



I can see that if you are selling and having to guarentee a product, you will want the very best. Some guys just do not understand compression fittings and they WILL leak if you don't install they correctly. If I were in Bill's position, I wouldn't like compression fittings either. Yet, if done correctly, they are fine.



Steve Keim

 

[BILLVO]

If i'm not mistaken the port in the case would be same temp as the oil going to the cooler. I think the reading would be close to the same at both locations without having to use replacement lines and extra fittings. Does anybody have a hydraulic schematic of the 47RE transmission to confirm this? The port is on right-passenger side of trans case just below cooler lines.

 

[SnoKing]

Cooler lines are both on drivers side of transmission!!!! And no none are in the same path as the outlet line. SNOKING

 

[BILLVO]

Cooler lines are both on drivers side of transmission!!!! And no none are in the same path as the outlet line. SNOKING

Right you are on the location of cooler lines I was thinking of the cooler itself as the lines cross over to that side. I checked where to put the sender as per gauge directions,and it goes into the front servo test port on right side of trans which is right above the right front corner of pan. This was my question as to the hydraulic schematic and how the oil flow is through the system I believe there would be little difference here versus adding lines and fittings to put sender in cooler line. Can anyone give a link to a hydraulic schematic for the 47re so I can check into this,I don't have a factory service manual.

 

[SnoKing]

Right you are on the location of cooler lines I was thinking of the cooler itself as the lines cross over to that side. I checked where to put the sender as per gauge directions,and it goes into the front servo test port on right side of trans which is right above the right front corner of pan. This was my question as to the hydraulic schematic and how the oil flow is through the system I believe there would be little difference here versus adding lines and fittings to put sender in cooler line. Can anyone give a link to a hydraulic schematic for the 47re so I can check into this,I don't have a factory service manual.

I repeat, DTT and other transmission guys say to put it in the output line. SNOKING

 

[Fishin Guide]

Use the servo port if you like. The information you get from it is absolutely useless. It's not even remotely close to what the ma temp of your coolant is. Mnost of the time, fluid is stagnant in this location and only reflects the heat of the case around it.



The pan is ok for a snapshot. But, as Snoking said, b y the time you note a problem, your trans is toast.



The output line is used because this is the hottest point to measure the fluid temp. With autos, all we care about is how much life we have left in the fluid. you can only tell that from it's max temps.



The pan is slower to change temp because there is a pool of cooler fluid to mix with that may be a different temp than the return line. Many guys say they only care how hot the fluid is going directly into the trans. Good theory, but if the fluid is roasted before you run it back through the trans, it's like running water through it.



Compression fittings should never be used in the outlet line prior to the cooler. Why? Because the cooler and the lines act as a retriction and there is a huge pressure potential on the output side of the trans. I would not be concerned post cooler and on to the return to the case. As this is usually a pressure drop point anyway.



You guys have to do what your comfortable with. But, I feel there is a "right" way. you may not agree and that's fine. But I have helped more than a few guys get thier trucks home due to the hilljack setups commonly used to save a buck or make an install easy. You may never have a problem and I hope that's always the case. I have enough issues without tempting fate!



Dave

 

[BILLVO]

Thanks for the good info fishin guide.

snoking I was not trying to debate anything I was simply looking for an explanation for why in line versus in pan or servo port didn't mean to keep stirring the pot but was looking for an explanation like fishin guide gave. I have ran in the port and now have in pan and am not happy witheither reading I may now try inline.

 

[MErickson1]

WoW good debate !



I'am putting the trans gauge where the cigarette lighter is. I don't smoke so it's not a big deal, I still have the aux power plug below anyway.



A friend of mine does custom car stereo installs, he's great at finicky custom work... . so it should look pretty good along with the new triple pod (autometer "cobalt" gauges).



So should the gauge line be run to the drivers side of the trans cooler ???????



Thanks again everyone !!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Fishin Guide]

WoW good debate !



I'am putting the trans gauge where the cigarette lighter is. I don't smoke so it's not a big deal, I still have the aux power plug below anyway.



A friend of mine does custom car stereo installs, he's great at finicky custom work... . so it should look pretty good along with the new triple pod (autometer "cobalt" gauges).



So should the gauge line be run to the drivers side of the trans cooler ???????



Thanks again everyone !!!!!!!!!!!!

Which line?



The hot line exits the trans and immediately crosses in front of it going into the rear port on the trans cooler. then it comes back down and crosses back to the drivers side then forward to the secondary cooler. then back to the rear port on the case.



The replacement line completely replaces that line out of the trans and under the engine to the passenger side. It comes with a new rubber line, but DTT has a nice braided piece with crimped ends.



Dave

 

[Big A]

Someone please clarify something for me. The replacement line has a built in check valve, to keep the fluid from draining back into the pan. Also the cooler has a check valve at the inlet. Before installing the new line with the probe, shouldn't one of these check valves be removed. I understand that the stock line has no check valve, because the cooler has one. If someone can help me on this.

Thanks

Big A

 

[SnoKing]

Buy it from DTT and that is accounted for. SNOKING

 

[Fishin Guide]

Someone please clarify something for me. The replacement line has a built in check valve, to keep the fluid from draining back into the pan. Also the cooler has a check valve at the inlet. Before installing the new line with the probe, shouldn't one of these check valves be removed. I understand that the stock line has no check valve, because the cooler has one. If someone can help me on this.

Thanks

Big A

Yes, you only want to retain one check ball at most.



Some applications the check balls are removed all together. This usually requires running in Neutral for a minute or so on start up. Then, it's all good!



Dave

 

[swampjeep]

tanking about trans temp gauges

I have the deep pan from Geno's, put the temp gauge in there, and in the 3 years since then I have only seen the gauge come up off 150 once,



anyone else notice this? is this due to too much fluid to get an acurate reading or is my trans really doing that good?



BTW I tow 2 4000lb jeeps on a 5000lb trailer a few times each year.

 

[SnoKing]

tanking about trans temp gauges

I have the deep pan from Geno's, put the temp gauge in there, and in the 3 years since then I have only seen the gauge come up off 150 once,



anyone else notice this? is this due to too much fluid to get an acurate reading or is my trans really doing that good?



BTW I tow 2 4000lb jeeps on a 5000lb trailer a few times each year.

It means that your coolers are working.



"You could be heating the oil to past its cook point and if the coolers did a super job, then the pan will not get warm, but the oil is shot and soon the transmission will be also. " This is worst case.



Most likely your transmission is doing fine, but reading the oil in the exit line allows you to do something before the oil gets to hot. Stop and go freeway traffic or spotting a trailer are the worst I see on building heat. In stop and go traffic congestion, I go into neutral from time to time at high idle to help keep the oil cooled down, as it will climb to over 200. That is with a 89 TC, the tighter ones will be even worst. SNOKING

 

[MErickson1]

V Baker !



thanks for the part number, I'am going to check into that tomarrow !

 

[JBlock]

Mine in the pan too, the transmission temperature jume 220, backing up in 4x4, or after 30 minutes idling in gear at the canadian board crossing. Air flow is the key when backing up or stop there little or not flow accross the cooler. A fan might be worth considering.

 

[SnoKing]

Mine in the pan too, the transmission temperature jume 220, backing up in 4x4, or after 30 minutes idling in gear at the canadian board crossing. Air flow is the key when backing up or stop there little or not flow accross the cooler. A fan might be worth considering.

If you saw 220 in the pan, you better be changing the transmission fluid ASP. Take it out of gear in stop and go traffic. Stock, fluid flows in Neutral but not park. DTT makes in flow in park also. If you buy the DC line from DTT he includes the metal mesh extension line and stills in at about the same price as DC. SNOKING

 

[JBlock]

Yes the transmission had the fluid changes, and is full dunrite setup with a triple loc now. the only high temperature i see are backing up, and happens with everbody. if I use the truck more I add a second transmission cooler and fan from a first generation.

 

[Big A]

Yes, you only want to retain one check ball at most.



Some applications the check balls are removed all together. This usually requires running in Neutral for a minute or so on start up. Then, it's all good!



Dave

Thank you for the help.

Big A

 

[MErickson1]

So I had a talk with the manager at the trans shop where I'am getting the service done. He said if it was his truck, he wouldn't put a trans temp gauge in. His reasoning is, when you plumb in a "T" line or that Mopar crossover line into the side of the trans (output line to trans cooler) you're just asking for problems. He said that he has seen things like this leak and end up costing people a new transmission in the end. "It's just another thing to go wrong"



Any comment on the above ?



Another thing is the price of the Mopar cross over line !

I was quoted $240. 00..... yikes, but my cost would be $200. 00..... still a yikes !

Those prices are for prices in Canada. I wonder if its much cheaper in the US ?



Should I scrap the whole idea of installing a trans temp gauge ??????????