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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Question on new FASS Install

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) need info about a clutch

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Hi,

I recently had a new FASS 150 system installed, with both filters to my dually.

Excellent system, excellent install, great pressure, two thumbs up all around.



The Diesel shop that did this, plumbed the line into the incoming port of the old filter housing, the same port that the old pump came in on. The instructions show the line going directly to inlet side of the main injection pump, bypassing the filter housing.



When I asked them about this, they said they felt that for this part of the country, that was the best way to go. The reasons were two-fold:



1. You maintained the fuel heater contained in the filter housing, which is an advantage in the cold weather we get in the winter here.



2. You maintained the water sensor alarm, which the FASS unit does not come with.



They have done a lot of these, and they did offer to install a new line direct to the injection pump if that's what I wanted.



I realize that I don't get the full flow rate that would be there in a direct-to-injector pump installation, but although I'm pushing around 375 hp probably, I don't think the smaller flow rate will be an issue, at least that's my opinion.



Question: Is this a somewhat normal installation method for northern, cold weather trucks with the FASS system? Does the logic make sense?



Question: If I stay with this arrangement, can I remove the filter from the old filter housing?



Thanks,

Robert
 
I don't see why not. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge connected? Also, I would consider installing Genos banjo fittings to get max flow.



Not sure I would keep the stock setup connected... the heated stock setup does nothing for your filters in the rear, especially your FASS fuel/water separator. I'm not sure the fuel in water sensor would work down stream of the FASS fuel/water separator either.



hope this helps,



Wiredawg
 
well i would by pass the oldfilter housing, I live on a farm in Nebraska so im in the wide open cold winds, your fass is cycling that fuel through the pump and dumping most of it back into the tank, you dont use much fuel when it is very cold so you return a lot more, which in turn prevents geling and warms it up faster becuase the fuel is constantly moving, also the main line on the fass to the inj. pump is bigger and will deliver more volume than the stock one. i guess the way they did it, you should have just bought the pump and saved some cash.
 
Flip a quarter. Half the people on here pull everything off the others leave it on. If you leave it on, pull the filter and get the big line kit for filter to vp44. There really aren't advantages to leaving it on. The fuel usually gels in the filter so that does't help. The water separator on the airdog is suppodes to be good enough that you'd have to pump the garden hose in the tank to set off the alarm. The plus of taking the stuff out - heck of a lot of room for working on things.



Dave
 
and don't forget, if you're really concerned about gelling, the FASS base unit has provisions to run tubing from your engine coolant system to heat the base unit.
 
and don't forget, if you're really concerned about gelling, the FASS base unit has provisions to run tubing from your engine coolant system to heat the base unit.



Which has allways made me giggle as if the truck sits overnight what good is that feature if you can't warm it up because you have gelled fuel.



I have had my Fass for 60,000 miles and it was on when we had the nasty cold snap in 2004. I was up on the Canadian border snowmobilling and the ambient air temp was -26 (Windchill was much lower but it does not affect fluids).



All I had in the truck was a full tank of #2 and a whole gallon of Howe's fuel conditioner and the truck fired right up the second the grid heaters went off. Fuel pressure was totally fine and showed no signs of gelling.
 
dont forget to keep the stock filter housing as they are known to crack/leak and other members may need it!
 
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