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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Question on oil and fuel fliter change

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Bug Out

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My 12v oil filter was easy to get a filter wrench around. The 24V, there is a, what looks like a coolant hose right next to it on the bottom. Had a hell of a time getting the filter wrench on.



Any tips or tricks?



The 12V fuel filter was hell to get on without spilling fuel do to its location. The 24v looks very simple and a better location, but has a different style canister.



Any pointers?



thanks in advance for any help. Ed
 
i use a filter wrench with a adjustable handle (you can move the handle up and down) and have no problems getting to my filter, i tried to use a straight handled filter wrench with no luck in getting around the junk placed in the way of the filter:--)



as for the fuel filter, on my 2001. 5 i just use a deep 1/2 inch socket and drive to remove the lid (there is a star in the middle of the lid that fits a socket, unfortunately i don't remember what size at the moment). the 99's and below have a different canister than mine and i am not familiar with those. .
 
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I use an oil filter wrench that is shaped like a "C" with a handle on it. It works good because with the limited access, I only need to grap the filter from one side and turn.



A tip to keep oil from spilling out of the filter when you get it off is to slide a plastic garbage bag under the filter so that when it drops off, it drops right into the bag. No spilling on the floor. ;)
 
Just one pointer from me. I have heard if you let the truck set for approx 20 minutes after running, the oil will have enough time to drain back, and consequently there will not be as much oil present as before to spill. Just what I have heard, and it does seem to come true now that I have paid attention.
 
A little trick that I picked up on is when you do the oil filter change, wear some rubber/surgical type gloves. Once you get the filter to come loose of the housing, ease it down, put a gloved hand over the top to hold it, and with the other hand, pull the glove off the filter hand and slip it over the filter. Now you should be able to pull the filter with out spilling the contents on your way up, over, down to the side, up and back.



Sticks
 
After my experienc with the OEM filter when i first bought my truck I am pretty conservative. I just hand tighten mine, usually with a good hard twist I can get them back off with both hands. No leaks and no cussing when changing the oil!
 
Bug Out, I couldn't tell from your post, but if you're not removing the air filter first, do it. Takes 10 secs. with screwdriver at turbo. Removal gives you a lot more room to manuever. Also, be careful you don't touch the hot lead to the alternator with the oil filter wrench or ZAP!
 
I use a strap wrench on mine, easy to get on and off. Got it at Pep Boys for about 5 bucks. Only way to go for tight filters.



Bill
 
One of the many great suggestions I've gotten from the tdr is to use a one gallon zip loc bag around the oil filter as it is loosened, the filter drops into the bag and is ready for disposal. I found the bags that are designed to be free standing work the best.
 
I used a filter wrench like this one before and it worked pretty good, but if the oil filter is really tight you will crush it. Not sure where I got mine I've had it a while but I saw them at wally world the other day and you could get it from the source listed below.











Oil Filter Wrench web site
 
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I went down to the dealer and bought the little rubber boot to cover the + side of the alternator ( $3. 00 I think). Cheap insurance. I also bought a strap wrench to pull the oil filter. This was cheap also and has made all the difference in the world. I was trying to do it with my old metal filter wrench at first and had about as much luck as you did. Be sure to fill the new filter with a quart of oil before installing and don't over torque the drain plug. Some have cracked the plug this way. And lastly, the large ziplock bag is a great idea. When I'm finished, everything is in that bag, ziplocked and tossed in the garbage.

AC
 
You guys using the bags, don't forget to let the filter drain for about a day into a waist oil box before sealing up that plastic bag, every ounce of oil that makes it into the land fill can hurt ;)
 
I ground one end of an 18" long rebar into a point. I hammer it into the bottom of my filter allowing the oil to drain following the bar into a catch can. While the filter is draining, I drain my pan and usually rotate the tires, have lunch, etc... to kill a little time. I use a shop rag to get the residual oil off the rebar and stuff a piece of paper towel into the hole I made in the filter. A strap wrench (nylon seatbelt type material) with a 12" long 1/2" drive extension from the bottom side removes the filter with ease. Probably not the fastest method, but it works for me.



Bill
 
If you're not in a hurry letting the pan drain for ~1 hour always drains enough oil out of the filter so the plastic baggie is not necessary. Like other's have said, the nylon strap wrench works great.
 
On the oil filter I use a chain wrench I;ve had for over 35 years my uncle bought for me in the 60,s. Works great I do remove air hose for better access.
 
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