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Competition Question to anyone who has fabbed up a set of ladder bars

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Competition Input please ....

Competition My little Dodge CR was 3' behind Tomac this weekend

welded up a stack box ...



then a big 'ol roll pan kinda bumper out of 1/4" with the hitch mounted flush, 120 lbs worth ... :cool:



now i wanna make a set of ladder bars that mount on the axle tube ...



has anyone got photos / advice



i was looking at curries 2 1/2 inch rebuildable johnny joints and a shackle the same length as the rear spring shackle mounted at the front so that the axle can move back and forth as the springs compress ... hopefully prevent frame cracking i've heard about with the ones that bolt solid to the bottom of the frame



i have a freind with a cnc machine that'll cut up to 3/4" plate so i can get creative with the ladder bars themselves ...



questions:



3/4" plate with "cummins" cut out aughta be plenty stout, right?



could i just weld the brackets to the axle tubes and just bolt the bar to those brackets ... do i need hiem joints at the axle if i've got those big high flex joints and shackles at the frame



anyone run anything like this on the street ... if so have you got any photos / ideas



hope to have 'em by indy



thanks
 
I fabbed these up and welded them right to the axle tubes



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Not sure were you would take the top bar if your inside the frame, hence my removing the leaf springs all to gether to get the length. I came back last month and repositioned the top bar to the forward leaf spring purch this should control bounce a little more.



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yep still running a single bar--use DOM tubing or chrome moly--NO PIPE--well I haven't had any issues(major hops) with the single bar since I set it up---BBD and I both used DOM tubing(1. 75x. 25wall or better) ----remember BBD is running a full 4 link suspension now so he has to have bars top and bottom----chris
 
Scott, How does the shorter length on the top bar affect your pinion angle during suspension cycle? I was going to base my suspension on yours with the top bars to the spring hangers. Also, have you completed your front suspension? I'd like some pictures if you have new ones. That will take out some guesswork and developement.

Thanks.



Kyle
 
BBD that's EXACTLY what i was looking for at the axle ... thanks



do you think the hiem joints are needed if i put a big high flex joint at the front and attach it to the frame with a shackle?
 
does anyone happen to have a parts list to build a single bar set up? looking to build my own but don't know what tubing to use or joints.
 
biggy238 said:
Scott, How does the shorter length on the top bar affect your pinion angle during suspension cycle? I was going to base my suspension on yours with the top bars to the spring hangers. Also, have you completed your front suspension? I'd like some pictures if you have new ones. That will take out some guesswork and developement.

Thanks.



Kyle



Kyle, It definatly affects the pinion angle more but as mine isn't a daily driver anymore I wasn't concerened. I made up for it by adjusting the bars in or out to get the axle were I needed it. It was hardly noticable at all at the mid frame location. I don't think I will going to bags on the front either as its just a puller now and road comfort isn't an issue. I do have the longer lower bars on the front though.







2broke2smoke: Prolly not a need, you going with poly bushings or what at the rear of the bar ?



jerrethomas: No parts list here, you can just get the pipe at the local metal/pipe shop, mine was a special order as it is 2" with 1/2" wall thickness way over kill if your not sled pulling. My hiem joint are the 1 1/4" Kevlar lined joints from Skyjacker you can order them from 4 Wheel Parts but be warned they ain't cheap :( again over kill.



BBD
 
http://www.poisonspydercustoms.com



They have Kevlar heims in various sizes. I think they have 5/8" bolt hole, 3/4" and 1"

They also have sweet weld in sleeves that save time. I used a set on my bronco and am more than impressed with what they can withstand. (A teenager rock crawling)



It's worth a look at $30-$60 per indestructible joint.
 
Oh yeah, and thanks Scott. It's nice to tout that "Daily Driver" with you but somehwere at some level of performance a line is drawn.



BTW why did you switch to the shorter top bars?



Kyle
 
Kyle, I switched because I was getting a little bouncing out of the hole so I figured the shorter bar at more of a downward angle might help with that, haven't found out yet as I haven't gotten a good hook yet.



BBD
 
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