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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Questionable transmission issue

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WmFrank

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I have a 96 12 valve, 4x4, auto, extended cab truck with a questionable transmission issue. There may be an answer here some where, but I can never find what I am looking for even with a search deal. The truck is stock as far as I can see, unless some one put a plate in it. I had a 97 back in the 90s and it looked exactly the same. It has 215,000 miles on it. I have had it for 4 years now, paying it off, and now need to sell it because I have a 2001 to replace it. The fluid level is in the okay range and is bright red, not blake and burnt smelling. I don't start or move it much, but when I do I let it idle in neutral to build up fluid in the torque convertor. The truck does not want to move when put in drive or reverse with out revving it up. I tried in 2wd, 4wd and 4 low. I first thought this was because there was a 2,000 + pound camper on it, but the camper is off now, and the problem is still there. I hate to put a stock convertor, or any other brand, just to sell it to someone that might want a different make or model. What do you all think?
 
Welcome to TDR WmFrank.
These transmissions do not like to operate while low on fluid, especially when pointed downhill. How long does it take for it to catch when put in "D"?
With that many miles it may be time to overhaul. How many miles between fluid changes?
 
The truck is normally parked on fairly level ground, or up hill. The truck will just sit there until I rev it up to close to 2 grand. When I do get it moving and tried it down my dead end street, it would shift up, but seamed laking at a higher gear, and lower rpm, just like it would in first gear. I have been thru some 727s that these transmissions have evolved from, back years ago. I have also read a lot about torque convertors and how they work. I don't know how long it has been since the last transmission rebuild, if it has ever had one. I would think that the oil should be dark red and burnt smelling if the transmission was bad.
 
Anti-drainback valve might not be working; it wasn't included in certain years/models, IIRC. It probably takes some time to pump a gallon or two of ATF into the TC.
 
Drainback valve is my guess. Took it out when I rebuilt my 47re. Now it takes awhile to get it to move and reving it speeds things along.

Floyd
 
Where would the drainback valve be? I have followed the coolant lines from front to back, and don't think I have seen anything different than what my Dusters or Dart have had. I will try it again some time when a get a chance, but I believe I have had it idle in neutral for 5 minutes or more and still had this issue, even between gears. I might even get a chance to drop the pan and check the valve body for sticking valves or other issues.
 
WmFrank, How many miles between services/fluid changes?
The valve you are looking for is inside the transmission coolant line. It is merely a ball with a spring behind it. To remove it you place the line in a vise and knock it out with a small punch. It's been 7 years since I removed mine so I may be mistaken. I do remember using the vise and punch.
Another thing to "watch out" for. Look where the coolant lines are strapped to the front of the engine oil pan. That strap can/will cut into the transmission coolant line. Been there, done that TOO.
 
I don't start or move it much, but when I do I let it idle in neutral to build up fluid in the torque convertor. The truck does not want to move when put in drive or reverse with out revving it up.



Does it do this all the time even when warm?



If it never starts working correctly there is a problem possibly with the pump or an internal leak in the clutch apply or possibly a stuck vlave in the VB.



One 30 seconds idling in neutral is enough to charge the TC if the trans is in good shape. If it take slonger there are some internal issues.
 
I have never serviced the transmission, but I have not driven, or moved this truck but a hand full of miles since I bought it 4 years ago. I may get a chance to move it Friday, if not later in the weekend. I hope to get it in the garage and drop the pan, so I can check out the valve body and such. My dad has mentioned checking the pressure valve also, just to be safe. Is there a gasket on these new trannies between the valve body and the main casting? It has been a decade or two since I had my 727 apart.
 
My truck has the anti-drainback valve removed. After sitting a couple of days, it needs to run for maybe 20 seconds to move properly. After that, no excessive revving is required - just wait 20 sec and pull out normally. From my limited experience, you may have some other issue.
 
I got a chance to work on it this past weekend, and I think I lucked out. I got the truck in the garage, and thought I should check the fluid before I shut the truck off. The last time I did this was probably 2 to 3 years ago, and this truck is parked on a hill. I did and found that the transmission was some what on the low side, which is the nice way to say just touching the end of the dip stick, which is what I feel like after this. I had a new gasket and filter, so I decided to take the pan off and see how that looked. I did and for once did not have transmission fluid rain down on me. The pan had a little bit of residue but all and all not bad. After a couple of days, I cleaned up the pan, and bolts, and put it all back together. I did not take the valve body, since I was on so low on fluid. I drained out 4 to 4. 5 quarts out, and put 7 to 8 back in! The transmission goes into drive and reverse mush stronger now, and moves at the touch of the accelerator verse revving it up. Now I need to do a few more odds and ends to the truck, like clean it, before placing it for sale. Then I will focus my attention on the 01 that took over 4 hours to start on Friday! But that is another thread, in another part of this forum. Thanks for all of you help and advise. Hopefully this will help others in the future. Check the fluid level again, just to make sure!
 
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