Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) QUESTIONS on Fuels solinod tests

[nopowerforme]

I have replaced the relay with the RS one.



I have put power to the white wire while grounding the black and the solinoid pulls in hard and fast everytime.



I have checked with a test light from ground to the down side of the fuseable link and I get power, I have cleaned the battery posts and all the connections on the plus side (blue wire connector)

I have cleaned the connections at the 3 wire plug for the relay and added dielectric grease to all contacts I have cleaned the contacts at the relay (when I have the key on and disconnect and reconnect the relay I can hear and feel it kicking in BUT the solinoid will still not pull in on it's own.



Last summer I had the starter contacts replaced.



1. could there be a dirty connection down at the starter end ?



2, do I need to pull the solinoid?



3. Where else can I should I be looking?



Thank god it is starting to warm up here

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[nopowerforme]

JOE G. test

Joe



I read a post of yours that said if I had 12 volts on the white wire when the ignition switch is in the start position then I would have a problem ... . does that mean while I am actually cranking the starter or just with the key in the position it would be after I started the truck... . stupid question perhaps but I want to be clear

 

[Joe G.]

This all refers to the wires in the connector on the supply side not the solenoid side. It's a problem if you have 12 volts on the white wire in run position. If I said start position in a previous post then that is another example of my tangle finger typing. If you DON'T have 12 volts on the white wire at the start position (cranking engine) then you have some sort of a wiring problem. I think the next thing to test is to make sure the ground wire (black) is actually grounded. If 12 volts does NOT appear on the white wire then you should remove the relay and see if you get 12 volts on the trigger circuit for the relay. If you do then check for a good ground for the relay. If you don't then start tracing the circuit back to the ignition switch. If everything is good at the relay socket and you have continuity from the output of the relay to the white wire at the connector, then bench test the relay.

 

[bmoeller]

I had to replace the relay for the pull- in coil on my truck. If your relay is bad, I think some were getting the new ones at Radio Shack for less than $10. I forgot about them and got it at the dealer, tad over $50 w/tax. Won't do that again.