2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Questions on replacement of frt.balljoints

[Dodoro]

It's time to replace all 4 balljoints . I would like to have a list of recommended parts / procedures / tools needed, before I tear her down. At this time the plan is to just R&R the joints but I realize there may be more involved.

1. Wheelbearings - inspection - best part to replace with

2. U-joints - inspection

3. hubs what to look for

Anything else I may have left out ?



I am not going to do the steering at this time, that is for a different day.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Dodoro]

Any tips or cautions ?

 

[snuff]

if you are going to keep your truck forever buy better parts... ... ... .



well , where do i start, i replaced both hubs last yr, had one squealing on me, luckily both came off fine.



there are a too many posts that people have had nightmares in trying to get the hub and front shaft out. . front shaft off- frozen to the hub, the axle nut off- frozen to the shaft too and the hub off the knuckle- frozen toooo. sooooo when everything gets broken down, abit of anti sieze on hub nuts, abit of grease on front shaft where it goes through the hub for ease of later tear down.



not sure on the specs for deflection for the hub, if it an't squealing it should be ok, not sure if yours is rebuildable, mine is not, it is a whole unit,,,, if you can aford it go for a free spin kit. threads on this too.



-bushings- go for the poly ones, daystar is one manufacture. some make kits that have all of them.



Check the following;;;;



-shocks

-all bushings

-i believe adjustable ball joints are called for, seems people been having problems with them---go for non adjustable ones, check this article, i have moog on my ford never had a problem but my dodge is way heavier, buy the best.



Dodge Ram Suspension: Carli Upper Ball Joints w/ Moog



-steering dampener

-track bar and all assoc. sterring linkage

-ujoints---front half shafts and front 4x4 shaft, get the ones that have the grease fitting on the cups if it is on the body it is not a strong. if yu can get the shaft off take it too a good shop, they got all the tools and presses. posts on problems getting them off for the first time.



-brakes and assoc. stuff, it might be a good time to change the fluid, bake fluid absorbs moisture.

-front diff- fluid change

-tie-rods

-springs



i am not sure how far you want to go, i plan on keeping my truck forever, stuff that you can get off and take some where because they got the RIGHT TOOLS for the job, tools are expensive. save your money diesl might go up again.





if you haven't change any diff or transfercase, transmision you might want too,, some poeple advise if the transmison is shifting ok than it is fine and you don't have to change it, but if that was the case the motor oil, more for gasers, would be ok too. the trans see heat just like oil and sometimes more if you tow or beat the crap out of it.



i hopes this helps for a start,

 

[SRath]

The typical harbor freight balljoint tool set has almost-but not quite- the right size bushings for the job. I ended up digging through my scrap steel bins and doing a little creative tool building to get what worked best for pressing the ball joints in and out. Make sure you press around the perimeter and not around the ball.

Other than that, it is really a matter of how much time and money do you have and how "deluxe" do you want the repairs to be. For me, the more I looked, the more I found worn or broken on mine. So I did everything. All the way to removing the carrier and replacing the leaky axle seals and the 2-piece axle bushing. I also bead-blasted and wire-wheeled and painted everything possible. It won't last forever, but it will sure stave off the rust and crust a lot longer, and I will be going back in there once i can affors the Free Spin hub and 35 spline axle upgrades. i don't want to fight the corrosion again.

Every u-joint. Both driveshafts. All steering linkage. DSS was already on. As was the 3rd gen adjustable trackbar. Installed adjustable control arms with poly bushings. New brake pads, rotors turned. Took the factory twist/kink out of the passenger side brake hose.

Do a search here for the method recommended by CumminsPower98 and others on how to remove stubborn hubs using the hub bolts, a socket, and your power steering as a hydraulic press. It really works well. You basically loosen and back the hub bolts out a bit and leave a socket (maybe an extension depending on your socket) on the bolt head which you then line up against the solid steel of the inner C as someone cranks your steering wheel enough to put pressure on them. Do one at a time alternating sides and top and bottom. Press a little ways and repeat. The hub comes right off after just a few times.

You might also consider doing CumminsPower98's ingenious greaseable hub trick if your hubs and bearings are still in good shape. I did. It took a little time, but knowing they have fresh grease in them is peace of mind since they do seep the factory grease out eventually. I plan to replace mine with live bearing hubs and spindles and did not want to waste that cash on new unitized hubs anytime soon.

Once you get into it, assess what you have, what you see, what you think, and what you can afford. Check back with any specific questions.

As for parts, I went all Moog from RockAuto on ball joints and steering; upgraded to the heavy-duty T-style crossover steering for the same money as stock parts, and kept all u-joints and seals etc. genuine Spicer. Amsoil synthetic grease lubes everything.

If you go that far, the leaky passenger side axle seal can be frustrating to install. I made a special tool after ruining one new seal.

Its as big a job as you want to make it, depending on what shape it is all in and what you want out of it in return. I don't like repeating my labor or reusing old parts with 160k on them.

 

[Dodoro]

Thanks Snuff and SRath, that's kinda what I was looking for. I'll replace the steering parts in a few weeks as they're newer than the original ball joints / wheel bearings / axle u-joints.

My concern was the Hub / bearings. I do not want to take it all apart and create a bigger problem.



I have been searching older posts here at TDR and reading everyone's thoughts and processes, in hope's it will help me.

Thanks guys.



Anyone else wanna chime in ?

 

[Crash&Burn]

There's a article in Petersen's 4 wheel & off-road (March 2010) pg. 76 about updating the older 4X4 Ram diesels front suspension to the 2008 and later style parts.

Won't help us 2 wheel drive guys but... ... .

 

[Bob Cochran]

Mine I believe has major big rivets. What do you use to grind them to remove just a angle grinder?

 

[snappy]

Bob, easiest way to remove rivets, drill about 1/2 way thru rivet, used air hammer with a chisel bit and cut rivet head off. Then use a punch in the air hammer to drive it out. It take a good air hammer to do this, but it is very fast.

John

 

[SRath]

Nothing new, but better late than never.

CrashNBurn: It's nice to see Peterson's 4 Wheel and Off Road reads TDR. Others here have been there done that for years and shared it with everyone. They probably even went to CumminsPower98's personal website for details. :-laf

 

[Bob Cochran]

Bob, easiest way to remove rivets, drill about 1/2 way thru rivet, used air hammer with a chisel bit and cut rivet head off. Then use a punch in the air hammer to drive it out. It take a good air hammer to do this, but it is very fast.

John

Thank you!!!!

 

[Dodoro]

Ok so here is what we did. Shop quoted me $850 - new balljoints - installed. Well of course the hubs did not want to come off. And they did not want to try the "Power steering press". So out come the torches / air chisels. I looked around for hubs only to find that Dodge dealers did not have them in stock. But found out that SKF manufacters them. Found 2 at local parts store for $300 each.



It took 3 mechanics 6 hrs to R&R 2 hubs and 4 ball joints. All said and done $1400

I know this was not enough for the work / parts performed / used, but there was some miscommunication between shop owner - counter guy - myself.



HOLY COW !!!!! It rides - steers like a new truck. Even the very slight off centered steering wheel is straight.



I am so glad I didn't let my friend talk me into attempting this job in my parents driveway.



Thanks to everybody for your input!!

 

[SRath]

Why on earth would they not at least try the simple power steering press tip? You would be hard put to find more crusty hubs than mine were and it did the job very fast and easily. Took less than 5 minutes per side working carefully and slowly. There is no downside to trying it, and I have never read here of it failing, so they were just making a mountain out of a molehill and risking serious damage to other parts (they did destroy the hubs?) for no good reason using a firewrench, imo.

But I'm glad you're happy with the end results. There is nothing quite like a right 'n tight truck after thousands of miles of deteriorating steering.

 

[tntframing]

Power steering press trick is a joke (sorry guys) broke one extention and bent another. when she dont want to come off she dont come off. if your replacing the ball joints pull the nuts and cut them with a sawzall and take the hub to a press shop they saved the hubs and everthing was good!!!!

 

[SRath]

It's no joke. It works. But if you use 3/8 extensions, I could see where you would have problems; especially if they were offshore tools. I used a 1/2" drive deep Craftsman socket with a very short 1/2"Craftsman impact extension. Not much flex there.

Mine had never been apart in 14 years of Iowa road salt and snowplowing. The corrosion was so bad, the ball joint studs were eaten partway through, so you know the hubs did not come easily.

I also pre-soaked mine for a couple of days with PB Blaster and Zep 45 penetrant; same with the balljoint studs.

To each his own, but I am grateful to the guys here who passed that power steering tip along, or I would have been torching and cutting parts there like I had to do on my control arm bolts. Always a desperate last resort.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

The subject has been well-covered above. I would second the vote for better parts. When I got my Moogs they were limited lifetime warranty. I would add one thing. Whenever and Wherever you have metal separated (finally) paint it liberally with nevr-seize (or equiv) before reassembly. Last time I did the ball joints the hubs fell out in my hands once the bolts were loosened.

 

[Curious Dave]

Srath... Where in Iowa are you?

 

[SRath]

North Liberty, which is in east-central Iowa between Cedar Rapids and Iowa City, Dave. I'd much rather live in Idaho or Montana, though. You have a beautiful state. It's like Iowa might be if we had mountains the way Idaho combines rich fertile farm fields right alongside stunningly beautiful and inviting wilderness and majestic mountains. Beautiful river valleys and lakes, too. Scott

 

[Curious Dave]

I was curious... . I am in Des Moines on work. I thought if you were around we could meet up and BS about the trucks. I went to the Hot Rod Power Tour kickoff Saturday at the Iowa Speedway (?). A few nice trucks were there. Good time.

 

[kenny61]

I would exercise caution hanging out with SRAth I believe he may be on a few Govt watch lists..... #ad

 

[Curious Dave]

Well there Corporal Kenny61... I would think that if anyone could pull him up or call a favor it would be you. So... . What do you know?