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Questions Regarding Clutch Slave & Master

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3.9 in a Dakota

2002 Suburban candidate

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Hello,

I'm in the process of installing a 2004 6BT in this big beast.

I've installed an NV4500 with a gear vendor on the back & am trying to figure what to do with the clutch slave cylinder. The truck is a 1960 W500 & it has a hydraulic clutch. I want to leave the stock cast iron Clutch master on the firewall as opposed to adapting the modern plastic junk. I ordered a jobber slave cylinder for an NV4500 through Piers but it's the kind that uses the plastic line, "O" ring & pin design. The master is the threaded steel line flare fitting design.

Is there a threaded slave available that will work with the NV4500 or is there a way to join the plastic to steel?

What have you guys been doing?

Tell me I don't have to put that crummy plastic thing up there & start butchering my firewall?
 
you should be able to have any hydraulic shop make a hose that will adapt the two. the only problem is that the slave and master must have a similar amount of floud pushing through them. If the master pushes too much fluid it will push through the seals on the slave and end up busting and leaking. If the master doesn't have enough fluid to push it won't activate the arm on the clutch. The plastic ones aren't that bad and if you get a genuine chevy one from a mid eighties 1 ton it's steel and is the correct size for the slave.



-ben
 
Marty1 said:
Ben,

Will the mid 80's GM steel Slave fit to the Dodge bellhousing?



no sorry, I wasn't very clear. Wrote that when i was pretty tired. You keep your slave since it is specific to the transmission. You can use a mid eighties clutch master cylinder that is steel. It is the correct size for the slave of a nv4500 and nv5600. The slave for the nv5600 is plastic I think that the nv4500 has both plastic and metal ones depending on the year of manufacture. I don't know if there is anyone that offers a metal slave for the nv5600 I wouldn't worry about it too much though because it's corrosion resistant and obvious is strong enough since I have not heard of one slave failure yet. If the dodge clutch master cylinder holds approximately the same amount of fluid that the slave does you can still use your dodge and not have to change anything. if it is larger or smaller you will need to change it for it to work properly. Hope that explains things better if not I'll try again just ask



-ben
 
btanner said:
no sorry, I wasn't very clear. Hope that explains things better if not I'll try again just ask



-ben



Giving away all my secrets huh Ben? ;)

Hope your project is going well, last I heard from Kenny you were fixing a shift problem and a steering clearance. Do you have the old chevy up and running now? Glad to hear you seem to be almost there, been a long time.

I doubt the Navy has helped with your hours to spend working on it though. :confused:
 
DKarvwnaris said:
Giving away all my secrets huh Ben? ;)

Hope your project is going well, last I heard from Kenny you were fixing a shift problem and a steering clearance. Do you have the old chevy up and running now? Glad to hear you seem to be almost there, been a long time.

I doubt the Navy has helped with your hours to spend working on it though. :confused:



nah it's not that much of a secret just look at the two and there about the same size :) :) Yeah it's done drove it cross country right after I finished probably not the best idea but I needed to get to my new job. Shifting wasn't an issue I just had jammed the transmission between two gears and never popped it back in nuetral and I just couldn't for the life of me figure it out. The steering stuff is becuase the truck is slammed to the ground and the tires rub the fenders pretty good if it isn't lifted up. Oh your talking about the oil pan to steering yeah fixed it with a shim.



Yeah the trip cross country was interresting to say the least had a driveshaft blow about 6 hrs into the trip which cost me a day. Then figured out that my alternator wasn't charging and had to stop and get new batteries from walmart four times. Was leaving amarillo and my injectors started popping up and ended up breaking the return lines which i had to fix. Then when i was finally leaving there I jumped my alternator and my panhard rod came lose while i was going 70 down the road. That was exciting scared some people around me pretty good wagging my trailer and truck through two lanes trying to slow down. After that I finally made it in 1900 miles and four breakdowns later it was fun. Glad that I had all my tools with me because I think I used almost all of them :-laf So yeah it's running still have some little things but it's working well and really fun to drive. Did you ever sell that conversion that you were doing or get it finished?



-ben
 
btanner said:
Did you ever sell that conversion that you were doing or get it finished?



-ben

I parted it out to some guy who had more money than sense. Kenny ended up with the bare carcass, he needed the rear end to fix his dually chevy/ 5. 9.

Something about a nv 4500, Gear Vendors, 4. 10 gears and 235/75/r16 tires reaching speeds of 95 to 100 mph on his race season trips to Spokane, Washington and Calgary, CAN. :rolleyes: :-laf

Good to hear you had a successful, yet eventfull trip. At least you made it safely without loss of life or being stuck in Lodi. :)
 
RDupree said:
why not make a bracket and use the stock slave cyl?



Which way are you referring, use the stock GM slave cylinder? or the stock Dodge slave cylinder? The dodge is a different bore diameter and eliminates brackets. The force the dodge clutch arm puts against the slave is more than the GM slaves I have used can live through, they usually fail shortly after. The dodge units are easier to bleed as well.
 
DKarvwnaris said:
The dodge units are easier to bleed as well.



You're a liar :D The nv5600 are the worst slave to bleed in the world. Because you can't bleed them they must be bench bled there is not a bleed valve on them and makes for an interresting session if you are trying to do it yourself. With help it's about a 20 minute tops job doing it your self can take over an hour. The nv4500 aren't bad though i agree



-ben
 
slave cyl

ok,your old truck came with a hydr. clutch,right? master cyl,and slave cyl?right? why not use the matched set? leave the master alone,make a bracket for the slave to fit your bellhousing. sure seems simple to me. i just converted my 2000 f650 from allison to roadranger,adding a clutch pedal etc. i got the pedal,master and slave from ford,of course they didnt have the right setup for a roadranger,so,i made a braket for the slave,bolting it to my flywheel housing. works great. in your case you will have a nice cast master and slave instead of the plastic stuff i have. .
 
btanner said:
You're a liar :D The nv5600 are the worst slave to bleed in the world. Because you can't bleed them they must be bench bled there is not a bleed valve on them and makes for an interresting session if you are trying to do it yourself. With help it's about a 20 minute tops job doing it your self can take over an hour. The nv4500 aren't bad though i agree



-ben



Nah, not a Liar, never got a law degree to qualify for the task. ;)



I always bench bleed hydraulic clutch parts for a conversion. Mainly so I know the actual throw of the slave/ master prior to putting it in the truck when I am on my back cursing for more room. (do it right, do it once)

The time it takes to drop the master cylinder out is nothing compared to in chassis air bleeding.

Some of the NV-4500 and NV_5600 slave kits are interchangeable. Theones that work for both are easier to bleed out. I've found several part #'s for the same application depending on who you go through. Mopar lists a few options as well.
 
WM-300 said:
The album is #13 NV-4500 Clutch Slave Fitting Modification



Paul



Very nice site, you have some real skill behind you. I love your collection of TRUE dodges. I wish I had the time to take on a project for myself with one.

Your solution to the dodge fitting is one I had not considered so far. To this point, I have ordered the entire line and scavenged the fitting out of it or used the existing line and pressed a heated barbed adapter into it on the other end followed by a crimp style slip over sleeve to prevent leakage.

Your solution will be a great improvement over this as I have had to retry on a few lines more than once to get the heated barbed fitting to push in without melting and distorting the plastic too much.
 
I,m going through this now. I took an 8th inch pipe nipple and threaded it into the slave, then go copper flair to flair. Haven't tested yet but looks good. You cant buy the line any place but dodge. They sell it only as 3 piece kit. Hydrolic shop didn't have aclue.
 
you didn't go to a very good shop then or you asked the wrong questions. I took my slave to a local shop and they had a fitting the went right in and locked in place. Don't have the numbers but it's a relatively common fitting for a large hydraulic shop. You are correct you can't buy the line from a shop like that but they should be able to make it for you just have to show them the ends that you need. not really sure how you are getting pipe thread into the slave deep enough where it will hold hydraulic pressure but then again I'm not overly familiar with the nv4500 slave if it's a nv5600 slave I don't think it will work very well.



-ben
 
I agree, the plastic type material that the slave is made from, most likly wont be strong enough to thread and hold hydraulic presure. I bet the threaded in nipple will leak or blow out in time.



wm-300
 
I liked Paul's method... took less than 10 minutes to get the fitting out of the old slave & silver solder the fitting on the end. This way I don't have to use the crappy disposable master cylinder & can just flare steel brake tubing & use a short rubber brake hose to give some flex... problem solved!

South Bend sells just the slave & it even comes with a new "O" Ring.

Thanks Paul!
 
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