"Quick connects" on fuel tank

[TSielski]

Replaced my fuel sender today (third one) with a properley modified new unit (thanks to the TDR). Have a question about the "not so quick connects" used on the fuel feed and return lines.

Guess I should add that I dropped the fuel tank to do this. Don't have the capability (available hoist) to lift the bed.

Although the "quick connects" came apart ok by depressing the two little tabs, I had a hell of a time to get them back together.

Supposed to hear a click when they are back in place when pushing them back home. Didn't hear anything. The feed line seems to be locked, but cannot for anything get the return line connect to lock. I'm pushing on that thing as hard as I dare. Don't want to break the metal line entering the tank.

For the moment I placed a worm screw clamp around the plastic connector which seems to be holding. There is no leak on either of the connectors however won't know until the truck sits overnight, if the return line is losing prime (because the connector refuses to lock) indicated by the truck being hard to start.

Why simple SS worm screw clamps couldn't have been used in this instance instead of the POS plastic connectors, I have no idea.

Anyway would appreciate any and all suggestions.



Tim

 

[Rammin On]

The replacement modules take care of the qwik clip crap ... I destroyed mine on the fourth sender install ... . new module uses hose and clamps ... . but they cost out the A$$ ... .

 

[swamp rat]

You can get the plastic connectors at Advance Auto 5 to a pack for about $3, but you have to buy both sizes (3/8" and 5/16" ID) if you need to replace the main and return line quick connects. The inserts are all you need unless you have broken the outer retainers too. BTW, next time you have to drop the tank, cut the thermoplastic line off the couplers and hardline. Replace with diesel rated rubber type fuel lines and hose clamps. Just clamping the new hose to the metal lines in the canister will allow them to leak air and or fuel because they won't make a positive seal everytime.

 

[illflem]

The only one to benefit from the quick connects is Dodge on the assembly line. It's not just them though, it seems many products nowadays are made to be put together easily and never taken apart. Hose clamps work fine but will take a whole 30 seconds of your time.

 

[rrausch]

Swamp rat, will gasser fuel inj/ hose work OK? Or regular gasser fuel line hose? I got some at NAPA and used in on my truck, didn't see any "diesel rated".

 

[JStordahl]

RRausch: The hose should be stencilled with a J30R7 and at least 50psi rating for diesel. NAPA will have that hose in a black rubber. I used Aeroquip blue 3/8" hose when I replaced the inlet and return hose by the fuel filter on the engine. (the ones that connect to the metal lines way down behind the rear of the engine). It is thicker than the regular black hose and should last longer. Either type should be suitable for your application. Good luck.

 

[RJ2]

I was going to do that on the next filter change . Are they both 3/8", and what length should I get . Also do they use use the regular SS screw clamps? Thanks RJ

 

[JStordahl]

RJ2: Actually the return line factory size is 5/16 and the inlet line is 3/8". I used the 3/8 for both because the Aeroquip blue didn't come in the 5/16 size. You need 18. 5-19-5 inches for return line, and about 7-8 inches for inlet, but I bought 4 ft to cover any mistakes. I was concerned the larger hose size might cause leakage... . but so far so good. There's about 3 sizes of clamps from the factory. You need a 6mm and 7mm nutdriver or socket for a couple of the clamps, and the return line down under the fuel pump had a different type of clamp. I replaced that one with 2 regular hose clamps to guard against the 3/8 hose sliding off the 5/16 tube. There is a lot of purchase area on the metal line ends. The return line runs through a clamp above the fuel pump. It's kind of a nasty job..... hard to reach the lower clamps. Good luck.

 

[Bandit1]

i am getting ready to bomb my fuel sender unit this thurs, what tips or tricks can you all give me? also what all parts do i need i have the bomb kit for the unit but what about any other connectors or fuel lines like you all were taling about above, thanks

 

[Paul Reed]

I am having the second fuel sender replaced in 13 months on my '97. I replaced the first one myself for $50. The Dodge shop says they now recommend replacing the entire module in the tank and wanted $675! They claim that fuel sender failures are very rare on the diesel trucks. They finally agreed to replace it for $375. What a bargain! I wasn't aware of any clip problems on the old unit. The first unit failed at 44,000 miles and the second at 61,800. I have never had a fuel sensor fail on any vehicle that I've owned and driven since 1958. Does that mean that Dodge has trouble understanding the technology behind sensing tank level?

 

[Missouri Mule]

TSielski,

You should not loose prime because of leak at return fuel line at fuel tank.

You will only loose prime if your overflow/return fuel valve is stuck open and the truck is facing up hill.



Good idea to ditch quick disconnects, ford man changed his over to hose and clamps because the supply line was sucking air into the fuel (with disconnects). Actually he ended up changing his whoe fuel line system. Of couse ford mite have a few extra quick disconnects on the way to the injector pump. The Dodges only have one thank goodness.