2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission QuietCoat - noise reduction

[Boondocker]

Well, I've begun my foray into noise reduction. Having read all the threads I can find on the subject, I decided to start with the viscoelastic method. While the Noise Killer brand product has received some coverage, I decided to try the other brand, QuietCoat.



My initial investment is $150 for 2 gallons and the sprayer kit. With the spray method, you spend about half the project time masking off the surrounding areas that you DON'T want sprayed.



I started with the back wall of the cab, since it's easy to access and blatantly in need of coverage. Spraying it on was delightfully easy, no cutting, trimming, gluing, scraps or odor. I applied 2 coats with about 3 hours drying time in between. There is very little odor when wet, a bit like concrete and no odor at all when dry. It's grey in color, like concrete and dries hard, like, you know.



Next up was the hood. Since DC shorted me a hood blanket, it was naked too. I masked all around the interior edge of the hood with masking tape and newspaper and covered the engine bay with a big drop cloth. I used masking tape to cover all bolts, hinges, light fixture, etc. First I sprayed through all the holes in the supports to cover as much bare metal as possible, plus spraying a little extra on all the "triangles" between the supports. I decided to splurge on the hood and did three coats.



All of this used 1 gallon. My next candidates are the oil pan and plastic inner fender liners and maybe some exhaust wrap. This stuff is brushable, and due to the tight quarters around the oil pan, that would be the way to go. After I get some fender liner fasteners, shouldn't be too bad to remove them, spray and reinstall.



Don't ask about decibles, don't have a meter, not gonna measure. This is a sensory perception thing for me, so I'm not concerned with empirical data. The first perception, with my wife behind the wheel, is that it is noticably quieter. That's the verdict.



Overall I'm pleased. I got reasonable results for a reasonable cost and effort. Someday I'll get ambitious and tear up the interior.



Cheers,

Neil

 

[satmike]

I'd be interested in how that stuff works, keep us updated.

Thanks Mike

 

[Boondocker]

more Quietcoat

So it's been 13 months since I applied the first gallon to the back wall and hood. I finally got ambitious enough to tackle the cab floor. With the Memorial Day 3-day weekend at home, I figured it was the best opportunity I'll ever have to apply the second gallon.



It took me about 4 hours to remove the seats, misc hardware, shifter console, carpet and mask the holes, bolts, wires and everything else I didn't want coated. This patchwork of factory dampening material makes me wonder how they figured a patch here and a patch there is the right thing to do?



#ad




The conditions were perfect, warm, dry and breezy. I sprayed thin coats that dried quickly. I applied three coats to the entire floor and a forth to the passenger side and center. Additionally, I sprayed some otherwise nearly impossible to reach areas - inside the fenders back towards the door, on the fender underneith the air filter and on the BHAF heat shield. The coup de gras was the oil pan. I cleaned it thoroughly with degreaser, masked off the bolts, plug and used a piece of card board to shield the spray from everything else. I couldn't reach the spot above the crossmember, about 3" wide. This alone was a significant improvement. It takes some of the raspy ring out of the beloved Cummins rattle. One more thing, I have a 2"x2'x3' piece and a 3"x3"x3' piece of angle iron, sprayed all over with high-temp rustoleum and Quitecoat, hose clamped to the the 4" exhaust pipe under the cab. Where a slight drone at about 2200 RPM was previously detectable, it all but gone now.



#ad




The sound is still unmistakably Cummins, justed dampened, along will the the useless road noise that nobody likes. Not quite civilized, but closer. Maybe in the next 12 months, I'll get a couple more gallons and do the doors, cowl and if there's any left over, maybe the roof too.



I can hear myself grin now

Neil



Male-pattern baldness - it's like a trophy!

 

[gds3076]

Thanks



For keeping us updated. I was thinking in doing somthing similiar to what you have done. so I have to ask you, Was this stuff worth it?



Would do it again and use the same stuff?



My wife and I love the truck, but she is constaintly complaining about how load it is. If this stuff works I am going to go this route rather than the dynomat. Thanks for the info



Greg

 

[Boondocker]

comparisons

Greg,



I think the Quietcoat approach is worth it and, as I mentioned, will probably continue on to to other parts of the cab that I haven't addressed yet.



Here is the thread of threads on noise reduction https://www.turbodieselregister.com...eadid=63647&highlight=QuietcoatNoiseReduction



As for other methods, based on what I've read, since I haven't tried the other methods, they all have their merits and drawbacks.



Quietcoat Advantages:

• It is permenant. I don't want to do this job again anyway.
  
• It's thin compared to mats.
  
• You can spray it into places that you can't reach with your hand.
  
• You can brush it where masking is not practical and overspray is not acceptable.
  
• The coverage is seamless and gapless.
  
• It's lightweight.
  
• Odorless
  

Quietcoat Disadvantages:

• Overspray - you can wipe it off easly with a damp cloth when wet, otherwise it very difficult to remove safely. If masking with tape and paper is impractical, a coat of ArmorAll or something similarly greasy will prevent adhesion.
  
• Masking alone is a fair amount of work.
  
• If you want to spray, you need to buy the spray kit and have a compressor. If you plan on spraying 2-4 gallons, then the spray kit is a worthwhile tool investment. I already have the compressor and look for ways to use it.
  

Good luck with your approach, which ever method you use, I'm sure you wont regret the effort.

Neil

 

[RSarvie]

Neil,

Thanks for the info. I have been considering buying some of the Insulator sheets from Genos. Quiet Coat may be another option as I was looking for some coverage of the oil pan, and the ATP oil pan cover is over $300!

Is the spray kit you used the same as an auto type paint sprayer? The photo looks like it is. I already have an auto paint sprayer and and compressor so that would save me the $$$.

How much road noise do you perceive from your doors now that you quieted down the rest? I seem to get a lot of noise through my doors it seems, and I haven't done any sound reduction yet? Is 5 gals. more than enough to cover a QC? Once I decide and start tearing everything apart to spray, I don't want to half-a$$ it.

Is the drive thru at the bank or fast food joint doeable yet?

TIA...

 

[Boondocker]

I estimate that 4 gallons would be plenty for a Quad Cab based on back wall, floor, doors, ceiling, hood and misc. spots at 3-coat minimum. More coats is more better



Where the noise comes from - I have always perceived the most noise right in front of me, and this is one area (firewall & cowl) that I haven't addressed. That being said, I think the most bang for the buck is the back wall. A lot of noise comes through the back and I think it radiates noise coming from other directions. It's also probably the easiest part of the vehicle to work on.



For actual noise sources, the oil pan is pretty close to number 1. It is a difficult area to work on that I think the liquid approach is well suited for. If you use sheeting on the pan, whether it's lead, foam-based or both, you still have to apply liquid adhesive, then back it up with some kind of physical retainer if you want it to stay on. The other big noise contributer is "road noise" - tires on pavement and wind. This is where doing the floor is the best solution, which addresses exhaust noise too.



As for the sprayer, I think a paint sprayer is a no-go. Quietcoat is thick, much thicker than paint, so the nozzle diameter is much larger. even if you got a paint sprayer to work, I think you would ruin it. The spray kit comes with the spray "handle", whose nozzle threads into a plastic nozzle with a "straw" that goes into a can. The kit came with 2 nozzles and straws, which I had to clean a couple of times during application because they got clogged. I'm hoping to adapt a short hose off the nozzle, maybe 6-8-inches to better get into awkward recesses, like the inside of doors.



There are a couple of spots that Quietcoat is not suited for at all. Exhaust manifold to turbo - they get so hot that I have reservations about covering them any kind of way.

Valve cover - I like my valve cover just the way it is and think all valve cover - covers are ugly. Technically, I think Quietcoat would work, but asthetically - no way.



This noise-reduction thing is one of the few mods my wife can buy off on. The other was the step bars. Heck, I need those, I'm only 6' tall



Neil

 

[gds3076]

Wow



Thanks for the info. I am definatly going to go the Quietcoat route. I don't want to deal with measuring and cutting a mat I realy like the idea of just spraying it on. I have no problem taking the extra time and taping everything up! Thank you so much for all the information that you provided to us. It took most of the guess work out of the descision. Thanks again!

 

[WaynesWorld]

Quiet coat

Originally posted by RSarvie

Neil,

Thanks for the info. I have been considering buying some of the Insulator sheets from Genos. Quiet Coat may be another option as I was looking for some coverage of the oil pan, and the ATP oil pan cover is over $300!

Is the spray kit you used the same as an auto type paint sprayer? The photo looks like it is. I already have an auto paint sprayer and and compressor so that would save me the $$$.

How much road noise do you perceive from your doors now that you quieted down the rest? I seem to get a lot of noise through my doors it seems, and I haven't done any sound reduction yet? Is 5 gals. more than enough to cover a QC? Once I decide and start tearing everything apart to spray, I don't want to half-a$$ it.

Is the drive thru at the bank or fast food joint doeable yet?

TIA...

Where do I purchase Quiet coat?

Sorry about the last reply. It had no explanation.



WAYNES WORLD

 

[Boondocker]

QuietCoat.com

I know it sounds crazy, but

http://www.quietcoat.com



If you want to see naked truck pictures, that is, pictures of my truck with no interior, check out my readers' rides album.



Neil

 

[Boondocker]

semi-update

I spent some of my Independence Day holiday weekend continuing the Quietcoat project. Hey, what good are holiday weekends if not for quality time with the truck This time I tackled the quad cab rear doors, cowl and fenders.



Rear door liner removal notes: There are three metal clips along the top half outside edge. Peel the liner back enough to get a flat screwdriver in and push in on the clip, about 1mm. It's easy when you do it right. If you yank on the liner, there's a good chance you'll break the clip off and there's no way to put it back on. I still have 5 out of 6 good ones. The rest of the attachments are the plastic Christmas tree type. You really want to use a trim fastener removal tool for these. It's only $7-8 for the tool, you'll get your money's worth out of it. These fasteners get pretty mangled on the way out, but I think they're good for one reinsersion. Remove two screws in the arm rest pocket and one screw in the handle. Slip the latch cable off the handle.



Access and masking: Remove the speaker and vent flap thing for two big access holes. I pealed the plastic sheet down about half way to get to the other access hole. Cover the vent, speaker wire, door handle mech rod and hardware, and hinge arm. I used masking tape and foil. Mask exterior as necessary. Hindsight - Mark where the plastic sheet adheres to the door and mask that too. I also sprayed the door liner itself, just the bottom half. I masked the edges and slits for speaker and vent.



Spraying: I sprayed as much as I could reach inside the door - two coats.



Front doors: I couldn't see how to get the liners off, so I wussed out didn't do the fronts I still have a gallon of material left, so when I learn how, I'll do the front doors and maybe the headliner too.



Cowl: The cowl would be easy if it wasn't such and awkward place to work and requires a good deal of masking. The only hard put was getting the wipe arms off. It's easy to do, but mine were stuck, so I was afraid I was doing something wrong. Some gentle mallet tapping broke the crud bond. I cleaned the "teeth" and reassembled with anti-seize. I mostly used foil to cover the wiper motor assemblies. Tried to get as much inside the cowl as possible. I don't know how you could do this effectively with sheeting.



Fenders: I hadn't planned to do the fenders although a huge amount of noise comes through them. But since I wussed out on the doors and had an assorment pack of plastic fasteners, I took 'em on. There are 9 fasteners, count 'em, on each fender. They're like an expansion bolt/rivet. Definately not reuseable. They are much sturdier looking then the plastic Christmas tree fasteners I replaced them with, so I think I'll be looking for a better solution soon. Fender liner removal is very straight-forward. I just cleaned both the fender and the liner and masked around the fender well. I put 3 coats on the fender and 2 coats on the back side of the liner.



Results: Hah! Tune in next week after I get some drive time in



Neil

 

[Boondocker]

semi update part duex - results

Here are my impressions of the most recent Quietcoat application.



What I did - additional coat brushed on oil pan (brushing is twice as thick as spraying, per coat), sprayed on the cowl, fenders and fender liners, rear Quad cab doors.



Impressions - I can hear the right side speakers distinctly now and the stereo high frequency (treble) seems much louder. Valve clatter is not so intrusive, more of a "tock" than a "tick". I can actually converse with someone standing next to the cab without yelling. Best of all, I can have a conversation with my son, who rides in the back seat, without having to turn around and aim my voice at him.



I was going to do the front doors but chickened out after not being able to see how to properly remove the liners, so I did the fenders instead.



I have plenty of material for the doors and headliner, so the project remains unfinished.



Overall impressions so far - My truck is much quieter at cruise than my Jeep Grand Cherokee, albeit wearing well worn BFG MTs. And I'm about to find out if it's quieter than my wife's Camry (at cruise). That would be a hoot. I met my family at a park the other day. Even though the parking lot was a 1000 feet away, my wife said "I heard you coming" That's a good thing. My truck has lost none of its Cummins character, just some of the harshness and unnecessary volume. She still roars under load!



Neil

 

[mediccummin]

Front door panels remove real easy, probably easier than the back. Just plastic clips all around and a few screws. Two in the handle, one near the mirror, unpop all the plastic clips with a nail bar or putty knife ( to avoid scratches put some tape on them ) I have a tool made for this, but you can use anything. Pull door panel out from bottom first, reach up in and remove plug for power window,locks etc. Lift panel up and forward at the time while working it around door handle. Fairly easy. Before you reinstall check all your clips make sure there not broken, I would suggest getting some spares form local auto parts store, there are some that are universal. Put back in opposite order as taking off. If you did all the rest might as well finish it. Good luck.



I'm sure if I forgot something someone well let me know. Later.

 

[Boondocker]

door panel

mediccummin,



Thanks for the door panel removal tip. Mine are on nice and tight. I guess I'll feel around with a putty knife to locate a plastic clip so I can pry right on a clip and not in between. I'll definately finish the doors, preferably before our big trailer towing trip up to Yellowstone at the end of the month. I'll probably get to the headliner when I figure out a good overhead console switch panel solution for aux. lights and such - do it all at once.



Neil



P. S. After a 4 hr highway trip in the Camry, I would say the nominal noise level compared to the truck is at least a draw