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Quit while running and now No Start

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my 93 was running, as we hooked up the trailer and it died all of a sudden, just like the key was turned off. I have more knowledge of the 2nd gen (as noted in my sig. ) and would think that it was the fuel cutoff solenoid--but how is it removed without taking the pump off? I did take the "plate" loose, but cant get socket on it, only a open end wrench and we can not turn it. I do not have fuel at the injectors, I do have fuel coming into the pump. Went ahead and changed the fuel filter--just in case. The tank is about 3/4 full. The truck was running fine just prior to the "shut down". Suggestions and comments GREATLY appreicated. Be easy, my first post on this forum (1st gen)--please
 
Is the connector tight on the solenoid? Is the wire crimp good? Do you have power (12V) in the wire?

Make sure all that is good (if you have not already checked that stuff) before you remove the solenoid.



There is a bracket you can grind off and have better wrench access, but I don't have a picture to show you. You also might be able to grind a wrench thin to let it turn??
 
The plate that Jay is refering to is the support plate for the rear of the pump. Some have taken a wrench and bent it back and forth until it breaks off - which should be about flush with the rear deck on the back of the pump. Personally that makes me just a little nervous. What I did was to cut that rear support plate using a hack saw blade mounted in a single blade cut off tool. It wasn't all that difficult to do. You can then access the shut-off solenoid using a crows foot wrench, 24mm I believe, to break it loose. Once it is broken loose you should be able to turn it out by hand. You can then remove the plunger and spring and re-install the solenoid. Once you've done that and your truck is running you will then have to use the manual shut down lever, on fender side the IP to shut your truck off.



Bob
 
JLeonard--yes the connections are tight, and we have 12v power at the sol.



Bob--I agree about the plate, that is why we too it loose and cut with a dremmel multi-tool. Yes it is 24mm, I didnt think about a crows foot wrench--but will get one this morning. The manual shut down you mentioned--is that if I do not reinstall a new solenoid and "convert" it to manual shutdown?



Thank you both for the ideas
 
If the solenoid is the problem replacing it with a new one should let you start the engine and shut it down normally. All that the solenoid does is stop the flow of fuel the the high pressure side of the pump during shut down. Once the pressure drops below the pop-off injector settings the engine will shut down, leaving fuel still in the lines, upon startup pressure builds above the pop-off psi the injector opens and you are back in business. I would install ring terminals on the wires leading to the shut down terminals especially if you've got the OEM terminals still in place.



If you replace the solenoid and it does not start I would start looking for a fuel feed problem.



Bob
 
Thank you for the help, Sorry I was delayed in posting the update and fix. Yes it was the fuel shut down sol. , which took two days of soaking with pentrating oil to get it loose. Once replaced, primed the fuel pump, it fired right up, been working eversince.



Once again, the members of TDR come thru!
 
SF, After replacing mine twice, I just unhooked the wire and used an old choke cable as my shut down. I have a spring pulling forward under the hood so it is ready to go for the next start.

If you want to stay with the solenoid, do a search for solenoids in this forum. There is one post about a Bosch unit, identical to ours, available for VWs. I think I used the link there to get one for about $36.
 
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