R&P gear options - 4.10 - anything else?

[JonathanBurk]

So I got 3. 73's with the 35" tires and want to go ahead and swap gears.



Is 4. 10 the lowest R&P available for the 11. 5" rear? Is there not a 4. 56 or something that I can go to?



While going to 4. 10's will put me within a 1% difference of where I was stock with the 3. 73's, I wouldn't mind being a little better, because 4. 10's are also an option stock, so does anyone make 4. 56's?

 

[JFaughn]

It sounds like your taking stock options , have you tried the yellow pages and look for geare vendors , to see what the after market offers ?
Just a thought until someone here tells what they know.

 

[onesloryd]

If you want to go with a 4. 56 all to need is a front R&P from the Power Wagon and get a rear R&P from Precision Gear for the rear. Now if you want to go lower than a 4. 56 you get a front R&P for the one that is used in a Chevy and run a spacer. Hope this helps.

 

[JonathanBurk]

It sounds like your taking stock options , have you tried the yellow pages and look for geare vendors , to see what the after market offers ?

Just a thought until someone here tells what they know.

Haven't branched out to call the shops yet, I just decided I was gonna do it today.

 

[CumminsBu]

Kore sells 4. 56 gear sets.

 

[MPalachuk]

11. 5 offerings are 3. 73

4. 11

4. 56

4. 63

4. 88

5. 13

5. 38

 

[JonathanBurk]

So what would be better to go with... 4. 10 or 4. 56??



My situation:



Truck came with 3. 73 gears & 265/70/17 tires.

I put on 35" tires, which is roughly a 10% difference.



If I want to get back to stock, a 4. 14 would be the mathematical ratio to bring back to stock, so 4. 10's would get me there, but is that good enough?



because...



If my truck came with 4. 10's stock & I threw on 35" tires, then a 4. 56 gear would be ideal to get back to stock performance.



So I'm at an impass... which do I choose?



I don't haul much other than yanking trucks out of the mud. I do a lot of city driving, but also a lot of highway driving. About 25K in town and 10K out of town per year.



Help please!

 

[JRG]

Why change at all? The 3. 73 was a perfect compromise between the old 3. 55 & 4. 10 for the guy that went with taller tires, and with more power now too.



10%? @ 2000 rpm stock you drop down to 1800 rpm w/tires, not an issue imo.



You don't tow heavy at all and put a lot of miles on in a year.



I would save your money and upgrade the 48 first. My . 02



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153671



JRG

 

[MPalachuk]

Take mhp you run x 168 x gear ratio then divide the big number you get by what the loaded tire radius is[ center of rear hubcap to the ground] then subtract 28% for overdrive.



70mph x 168 x gear ratio

--------------------------------

18 [just a guess]



Then minus 28% for overdrive

This is the formula we use to set gear ratios for our customers and it is very close. Mike

 

[Nate]

Call Randy's Ring and Pinion for your gears. ringandpinion.com I think. Yukon gears are the only thing I'd consider other than factory gears.

 

[Summit]

with 35's i would NOT go to 4. 56 unless you do alot of rock crawling and slow driving 60 and slower. how much time do you spend on the interstate say 70+mph? i recently put 4. 56's in mine and from randy's and it made a huge diff but i was on 37's with 3. 73's for the past 14 months. another downfall to lower than 4. 10 is you have to get the spacer kit, 4. 10's bolt right in. then again if your wheelin alot and might go 6" and 37's then id go 4. 56 but it aint cheap. $900. for kit plus install. i didnt look at your sig to notice what mods you have, these tend to help overcome bigger tires.

 

[Nate]

That was a great price. I've seen some shops charge close to $1000 per diff for install!

 

[Summit]

That was a great price. I've seen some shops charge close to $1000 per diff for install!

i dont know what the labor was on the gear swap only, they pulled my injectors and sent to ddp and put them back in,adj. valves, swaped front & rear ring & pinion,replaced 4 ball joints, drivers axel joint(warranty), total was $ 1400. 00 but $ 400 was four ball joints. i bought the gears $950ish w/ shipping and paid $330 to ddp for inj. w/ shipping (thanks Ross).

 

[MickeyMiller]

You need lower gears if you don't have enough engine. We have a CUMMINS... we have ENOUGH engine, especially with a little bombing. I'm runing 35's with 3. 73's and just an Edge..... it seems to have enough power!

I will eventually go to 37's and will keep the 3. 73's... I do plan to bomb it a little more just to keep it interesting.



Plus, I love crusing at 75 and only turning a little over 2K rpm. Passing, even in 6th, is just a matter of pushing a little harder on the peddle!