Attention: TDR Forum Junkies 
I received the following in an e-mail from a guy I've been trying to convince to get on here and join in. He sounds like a sharp guy and us amateurs could sure use his knowledge.
I had asked him a couple of questions in an earlier message and this is his response. Especially interesting is the last paragraph.
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Has any one done the gear housing removal without taking out the cam? I see my fair share of the KDP in the shop. We do the whole job without taking the cam out. A three prong puller (Snap On) is used to remove the gear off the cam but there is also a special tool that works way better, if you want I'll get you more info. On a truck like a box Freightliner the radiator stays but on a Dodge due to little clearance and easy removal it comes out. The gear goes back on by heating it and sliding it on to the cam.
The gear can be heated in two ways, 1- Oven, next to the truck so the gear does not cool down: 2- Propane space heater, one that can have the elements turn up like a grill. I can't remember the temp but it's some where around 300 F, our oven is preset and for the propane heater we use welder heat sticks that melt at set temps. The oven is the easiest way, depending on the oven it could take 30-45 minutes to heat up, in the mean time you can clean some parts. The propane heater is faster about 10-15 minutes but you need to be fast because the gear will cool down faster and get stuck half way.
You need a helping hand only for a few minutes, help is needed it to hold the cam from moving back and pushing out the rear cam plug. The cam is held by removing the fuel lift/transfer pump and using a pry bar on the cam lobe and apply a little force to move the cam toward the front of the engine. The cam might move slightly but all you want is the cam not to move back when the gear is going back on. Once the gear is up to the temp, the crank and cam timing position has been set, someone is holding the cam from sliding back, you then grab the gear with high temp gloves (Mac Tools have a great pair) and you slide the gear back on, some times have to tap it back with a plastic mallet or dead blow hammer but never with a steel hammer. It sounds complicated but we can get this done faster. I would only recommend this to someone with experience. There are three draw backs: 1- gear cooling down half way, then you have to wait 10 minutes to cool and remove it again to start all over; 2- Not aligning the crank and cam; 3- Allowing the cam to move back and pushing the rear cam plug.
The reason Cummins does not get involved with Dodge issues is because the engines are sold to Dodge with no warranty so Dodge can save some money and in turn Dodge picks up the warranty end. Cummins is aware of the problems and takes care of its engines but Dodge applications are on their own and the responsibility of Dodge to repair or prevent this from happening. I have to constantly argue with local dealers on why something should be addressed before it does become a major problem and many times we end up doing the work while the owners sue the dealer. Another issue is the blown exhaust manifold gaskets, the dealers all they want to do is put new single ply gaskets and send it out. The right way would be to remove the manifold, check to see how straight it is (99% of them warp and need replacement), use new style multi layer gaskets with stainless steal bolts.
I had asked him a couple of questions in an earlier message and this is his response. Especially interesting is the last paragraph.
-------------------------------------------------
Has any one done the gear housing removal without taking out the cam? I see my fair share of the KDP in the shop. We do the whole job without taking the cam out. A three prong puller (Snap On) is used to remove the gear off the cam but there is also a special tool that works way better, if you want I'll get you more info. On a truck like a box Freightliner the radiator stays but on a Dodge due to little clearance and easy removal it comes out. The gear goes back on by heating it and sliding it on to the cam.
The gear can be heated in two ways, 1- Oven, next to the truck so the gear does not cool down: 2- Propane space heater, one that can have the elements turn up like a grill. I can't remember the temp but it's some where around 300 F, our oven is preset and for the propane heater we use welder heat sticks that melt at set temps. The oven is the easiest way, depending on the oven it could take 30-45 minutes to heat up, in the mean time you can clean some parts. The propane heater is faster about 10-15 minutes but you need to be fast because the gear will cool down faster and get stuck half way.
You need a helping hand only for a few minutes, help is needed it to hold the cam from moving back and pushing out the rear cam plug. The cam is held by removing the fuel lift/transfer pump and using a pry bar on the cam lobe and apply a little force to move the cam toward the front of the engine. The cam might move slightly but all you want is the cam not to move back when the gear is going back on. Once the gear is up to the temp, the crank and cam timing position has been set, someone is holding the cam from sliding back, you then grab the gear with high temp gloves (Mac Tools have a great pair) and you slide the gear back on, some times have to tap it back with a plastic mallet or dead blow hammer but never with a steel hammer. It sounds complicated but we can get this done faster. I would only recommend this to someone with experience. There are three draw backs: 1- gear cooling down half way, then you have to wait 10 minutes to cool and remove it again to start all over; 2- Not aligning the crank and cam; 3- Allowing the cam to move back and pushing the rear cam plug.
The reason Cummins does not get involved with Dodge issues is because the engines are sold to Dodge with no warranty so Dodge can save some money and in turn Dodge picks up the warranty end. Cummins is aware of the problems and takes care of its engines but Dodge applications are on their own and the responsibility of Dodge to repair or prevent this from happening. I have to constantly argue with local dealers on why something should be addressed before it does become a major problem and many times we end up doing the work while the owners sue the dealer. Another issue is the blown exhaust manifold gaskets, the dealers all they want to do is put new single ply gaskets and send it out. The right way would be to remove the manifold, check to see how straight it is (99% of them warp and need replacement), use new style multi layer gaskets with stainless steal bolts.
