Racing suspension is here!!!!!!!!!!

[kentkroeker]

You don't really have to get any accessories installed on your truck ahead of time; you just have to call the manufacturer of the part and get the weight of the component - even the shipping weight will do. We already know what your truck weighs. We just have to know how you're planning on configuring it and what your expectations are.



Yes, all King shocks, including the one's that were developed for our system, are fully rebuildable. This is an advantage when each shock costs $500. 00! It's not really a do-it-yourself job. It takes some special tools and you're working with some high pressures and can be injured if you're not careful.



What wears out on a King shock? I can't answer that because I've never seen one wear out! One of our clients has driven 70,000 miles of Baja dirt roads and his shocks are still performing like new. Each shock is so big and tough and carries so much oil you just can't fatigue the oil or seals. It never gets hot enough. Racers rebuild their shocks after every race - just like they do with the motor and every other component on the vehicle. But they've got millions of dollars riding on success, so they have to do this.



You'll know when it's time to change the oil when the main seal starts showing a little bit of seepage past the swiper - you'll see it on the shock shaft. I've actually never witnessed this (except on race trucks) but supposedly that's how you know it's time to change oil and seals (a rebuild).



When we revalve a shock to tune for a customer we always rebuild the shock completely. We change the oil and all the seals, then reassemble the shock. I've personally done this hundreds of times and have never seen a bad seal or a worn out component. Inside the shock there is a part called the "wear band. " It rides around the piston, protecting the piston from friction during its stroke. Even the thing called the "wear band" doesn't show wear - and I've seen wear bands with 60,000 miles on them! This is probably due to the fact that King hones their shock bodies like motor cylinders are honed - so they're perfectly round. This is high-quality, low-friction stuff.



The adjustable shock you're thinking of is a "triple-bypass" shock. They have two stages of external compression adjustments and one rebound adjustment. They also cost over $1000. 00 each! It's no RS 9000 or MX-6 - believe me! They are for racing only. Since they're truly position sensitive and require exact settings to function well, just adjusting them to work right for the average guy would be a nightmare. They're very complex and for experts only. We've got a set for the rear of our project truck that we play with, but they're very impractical for the street - the bypass valves make too much noise! Drive down the road and hit a series of bumps, it sounds like you've got a bunch of firecrackers going off in the bed of your truck. You can hear the valves on race cars as well, but nobody cares - it's racing. Not good for the a truck that is used on the street. Your neighbors already hate your noisy diesel with 700 horsepower and the five inch exhaust! Now every time you drive by it sounds like Chinese New Year as well!!! Ha ha! No, the triple bypass is cool and high-tech, but not a T. Rex option. Anyway, you don't need external adjustments on our system. It's dialed from the moment you drive out of the shop that installed it.

 

[Hohn]

Kent, I am VERY VERY interested in the T-rex setup. I dashed off a note to Tim Sanchez of off-road.com. Here's what he said:





"Yes we are using the stock control arms. The track bar that we are using is a custom fabbed track bar that we fabricated using a 2" trophy truck heim joint. You shouldn't have any problem running a 315 tire. The guys from T-Rex run 37" tires and they have no problem, although they recommend running 35" tires.



Because we tow a heavy race trailer, we have kept the rear spring package

including the overload springs. We removed the airbags and now we are running straight aftermarket Deaver Springs from Deaver Suspension in Santa Ana, California.



There will be a 6-month series of T-Rex articles beginning with installation

and testing. Then we will get into the serious rampaging of the Baja

Peninsula as we gear up for the Baja 1000 race. Stay tuned and look for an

in-depth article to publish on Sept 1, 2003 on Off-Road.com"





So I guess we should keep our eyes peeled to Off-road.com to see how the T-rex setup shines when abused by the ORC gang.



Tim Sanchez was VERY impressed with the T-rex setup-- it's now on his Desert Tank CTD. He says they can now go 80 mph through baja!!



Kent, I am saving up the money now-- I am COMPLETELY sold. .



HAUH T-REX





Hohn

 

[Hohn]

Track bar issues?

Kent, et. al. --



Since the front is raised a few inches, what other parts does this affect? Do you need to move up to the DT track bar? Are the stock control arms long enough? Are there any alignment issues?



If this upgrade lets you leave all the rest stock, then it almost sounds to good to be true!!



jlh

 

[Clinton]

Hi Kent, we may as well keep asking you questions on the forum so everybody gets the benefit of your replies. Thanks for your time... a very good suspension lesson.



Here's one on wheel and tire combos. The FAQ on your website warns about using aftermarket wheels with non-OEM backspacing. In my case the stock wheels are only 6. 5" wide. I'd like to run 35" tires on 8" wheels and typical aftermarket wheels have the same 4 9/16" backspacing as OEM, but, because they are wider, they push the tire/wheel outside the wheelwell. So, would that combo be out of spec? I guess the centerline of the wheel would be farther outboard and that's what I'm wondering about.



Back to the leaf packs. I've wondered about having a custom set made to eliminate the 5" lift block and hopefully get rid of some of the axle wrap and provide a better ride. Now if I go to a reputable spring maker and tell them I want a set of leaves to eliminate the block and as beefy as possible (no change to the load rating of the vehicle), is that going to work okay with the T-Rex system and will I likely achieve reduction in axle wrap and/or a better ride? I wouldn't want to go from bad to worse and your earlier discussion on leaf packs makes it seem as though the OEM set-up is hard to beat. You also mentioned traction bars on the rear axle briefly. Bad idea with the T-Rex system? Thanks.

 

[Hohn]

I'll add my questions to the mix

Like you, Kent, I believe in the factory having a lot of the design right on our trucks. I also read that the T-rex system will raise the front about 2. 5 inches. With that in mind:



1) Do we need to replace the track bar to re-center the axle longitudinally with the T-rex? Why not?

2) Won't the raise require different length trailing arms to correct the caster at the wheels? Why not?

3) Won't it require longer trailing arms to center the tire within the wheel well up front? Why not?



More generally:

-- Wouldn't the off-road performance of the truck be enhanced by removing the stock sway bar? Since the bar ties the two sides of the axle together, it would seem to essentially double the spring rate (assuming perfectly rigid sway bar, and all that stuff) when only one wheel hits a bump.

-- Is T-rex considering a ladder-bar type setup for the rear? There's not much travel there, so I don't think that bind would be too hard to work around. Part of me thinks that a heavy Dodge would not benefit from a ladder bar off-road, and proabably not much from eliminating the sway bar.



Thanks for answering my questions!



Justin Hohn

 

[kentkroeker]

Great questions, Gents! I'm kind of rushed this morning, so I'll try to hit everything as quickly as possible.



Q: I don't want my wheels to rub anything and I don't want to cut my quarter panels. What's the correct wheel?



A: This is a HUGE issue. In my opinion, nobody yet makes the perfect wheel for the Dodge. Backspace is one issue - especially for the 2003 models - it's huge - over 6". Offset is another dimension that's important - the Dodge requires at least a +20 mm offset - and the 2003 requires a +40. Many aftermarket wheels are made to work with cheesy "lift kits" so the dimensions of the wheels are all wrong. The lift kit companies all recommend (as per their installation instructions) making the truck as wide as you make it tall - "if you go up four inches, go wider four inches" - for liability purposes - to supposedly keep the CG similar to stock. That's why the control arms included with "lift kits" enable the use of wide wheels with a small backspace and a 0 or even a negative offset. I could talk about this for hours - and it's a constant problem because when you change wheel dimension, you change about 20 other things that I won't get into right now -suffice to say that one of the main things is your wheel bearing life. We've got some setups that have worked really well for us in the past on the older models that don't require as radical a backspace and offset as the 2003. Generally if you've got a pre '03 Ram, you're looking for an 8 on 6. 5 lug pattern, 17" diameter wheel with the following dimensions (roughly) 8 - 8. 5" width, 5. 5" backspace and positive 20mm offset. APP makes an excellent one piece forged aluminum wheel that many Baja racers use - check the "Thunder II. " Also try the American Eagle "Series 175" - a cast aluminum wheel with an 18" diameter - and don't freak out because you hear the word "cast" - this wheel has a 3420 lb load rating! Metalurgy has come a long way, boys... So far Weld Racing has been a great help to us. They've sent us many wheels for testing, but none have worked properly so they're making a wheel around our dimensions. T. Rex doesn't really specialize in wheel/tire combos, but as soon as we find a formula that works, we'll let everyone know. The best thing to do is get your truck's suspension set up the way you want, then go put the tire installation people to work. Get a combo you like at the shop, then have them put it on the front. Turn the wheel to the stops on both sides and check your clearances. Drive into a parking lot with the wheels at full lock. Try the wheel/tire combo in the rear as well. Don't buy the setup if it looks like it will rub anywhere. Would you buy a pair of shoes without trying them on? Any good tire shop will do this for you. If they won't, then don't waste your time with them, just go to a more professional establishment. Also, what may work on one truck may not work on another - even the exact same truck with the exact same suspension. Manufacturers are pretty sloppy when it comes to putting the body on the chassis - some will allow huge body/chassis disparities. Measure the symmetry of your truck - you'll see! The point is, tire/wheel fitting takes some serious time and effort to get right - but, just like everything else, it will pay off if done properly.

 

[kentkroeker]

Q: Since the front is raised with the T. Rex system, what other parts are affected?



A: That's precisely what we're trying to avoid - affecting other parts. During our R and D we had some issues with the softness of the OE front springs. They just weren't allowing our shocks to work as well as they could. So, never wanting to stray too far away from OE, we went to Dodge for the answer. We wanted to see how the OE Dodge "snowplow springs" affected the geometry of the truck. We got a set, installed them and found that they raised the truck 2. 5 inches in front - "Great" we thought - "a factory leveling kit that gives us some more available travel to work with!" But the springs were straight rate, and way too heavy to work properly with the complex dampening our shocks provide. So we had our own springs made to our specifications - we went through many pairs in testing. Our springs are very different from the snowplow springs in both rate and function; they just have the same geometric effect on the chassis. Point is that we're keeping within OE design parameters so we don't have to change the track-bar, control arms, or anything else - caster remains in the positive 3 - 5 degree range - right where you need it (to demonstrate how the caster is essentially unaffected we often pull the steering stabilizer then let someone demo our project truck off road - no bump steer - even with 37's!). With our system you can run 35x12. 5 tires with no rubbing if you use a wheel similar to the ones Dodge gave you - this is no guarantee, but it's worked for us many times in the past.



Q: What about the anti-sway bar? Doesn't it limit free articulation of the front suspension?



A: Yes it does; but your big, gnarly Dodge isn't a Jeep rock crawler, so leave it connected. We've never even thought about disconnecting the anti-sway bar - pure madness on a vehicle of this size and weight! Anyway, the anti-sway bar twists and flexes like a spring - it's not purely rigid. Our suspension is designed to work with it. It's a good piece of gear that helps off-road performance, not hinders it.



Q: What about different rear spring set ups?



A: We like the OE setup. Like I tried to convey before, if you have one specific thing you do such as a camper that is always on, or a bed that is always empty, you may, with enough work, be able to improve on OE. Otherwise, please leave it alone.

 

[Hohn]

Sorry I wasn't clearer. With the swap bar I was only talking about removing the rear sway bar, NOT the front!! I am sorry I was so unclear. I would NEVER consider removing the front bar-- that heavy cummins needs ALL the help it can get-- maybe even a stiffer bar??



Ok-- you guys who are doing the D25 coils-- why are you messing with the track bar and trailing arms if it's only a 2- inch raise?



Kent, I think what I hear you saying is that the axle alignment left and right is not such a big issue with only a 2-inch raise. Moreover, if the axle isn't centered, it's more likely from the body being mounted off-center than anything else.....



True?



jlh

 

[Hohn]

another dumb question: what's the difference between backspacing and offset? I had always heard them used interchangeably. I know what backspacing is, but what do yo umean by offset when you mention that? 20mm?



village techie idiot

 

[GiesJ]

I don't want to get in the way of anything, but this is an awesome thread. Thank you!

Edit - what is the real difference between your leveling kit and a 'lift' kit?

Keep the info coming, I'm saving my pennies...

j

 

[RustyJC]

Originally posted by Hohn

another dumb question: what's the difference between backspacing and offset?

Hohn,



HERE ya go!



Rusty

 

[Clinton]

Hohn, When I did the D25 coils last year the axle was definetly off to the driver's side right at an inch. That measurement was relative to the distance between the frame rail and the upper control arm bracket side to side. Since my stock trac bar was shot, I installed the DT unit and will likely keep it right where it is for the life of the truck, regardless of any suspension changes I may make. I like it that well. Also, the stock length control arms pull the axle rearward in the wheel-well with the D25 lift; you can see that without measuring. I run 255/85s so I don't rub, but members with larger tires can get that distance back with longer control arms and avoid some tire contact. How these conditions are not duplicated in the T-Rex system I hope to learn soon.



Kent, I'm still interested in hearing any comments you may have concerning the leaf spring lift block and it's role in suspension performance. I tend to think of it as a weak link (performance-wise), but I enjoy learning of your findings. Also, thanks for the wheel discussion. You confirmed what I've been thinking for some time; no perfect replacement exists for the stock 6. 5" wheel.

 

[Hohn]

Kent said he won't be able to answer all this for a little while-- the crew is getting ready for a major Baja race, so it will be a few days before he has time to get back on here.



I am waiting with bated breath (yes-- it's B-a-t-e-d: look it up)



Hohn

 

[Morphious]

I am waiting with bated breath (yes-- it's B-a-t-e-d: look it up)

been eating sushi?





I think that you would still need longer control arms to be able to fit 35's on with the 2 1/2" lift. I've been doing measurements on my truck and 35's would rub on hard hits, especially while turning. I'm planning on building the control arms and will add a longer track bar as well. I'd be interested just in the shock setups they are offering, but no way I could afford the whole thing at once.



Morph.

 

[kaptn]

:{ The wife is going to divorce me for sure if I get this. Wait a minute, it will make the ride softer on her butt wont it? Man I gotta have this.

 

[kentkroeker]

Ok, I'm back - and hello, Morphious - I remember writing you many months ago while we were still deep into R and D and still having people signing non-disclosure agreements - do you remember the thread, "Paris-Dakar Diesels?"



I wish I had more time to write on this thread because I really enjoy it, but ever since that article came out in TDR we've been swamped - I just don't have enough time to devote to it!



Thanks, Mr. Hohn for answering the offset/backspace question for me - that's a very important issue - people use those words interchangeably and they are NOT the same thing - don't buy wheels from folks who don't know the difference! ha!



I want you guys to know that I appreciate the fact that you've put so much thought into suspension. We've put a lot of thought into it too, so it's great to see that people can actually appreciate it from an intellectual standpoint.



Mr. Clinton, you are 100% correct about the track bar displacing the axle. With the OE track bar and our system or any spring, spring spacer, lift kit or leveling kit that raises the truck 2. 5 inches by way of lengthening the space between the axle and frame, the driver's side wheel will move outboard approximately 1/2 inch - *while the truck is static* I cannot argue this point. It happens clear as day - and it's supposed to do that.



Now, I am going to put into question whether or not it's a good idea to adjust a DT track bar to to push the axle back toward the passenger side of your "leveled" truck.



Before I do so, I want to say that DT makes a great product and I don't want to speak poorly about another company or their design philosophy. Let it be known that I am only talking about T. Rex Engineering design philosophy and that's all. There are many good reasons to install a high quality DT track bar - the main reason is that the Dodge track bar sucks. The 2003 Dodge track bar is a much better design - but that's a different subject.



Ok - now we're going to get kind of technical, but you guys are rivaling my techiness (I don't know if that's a word!) so we're going where only real suspension geeks like myself like to go.



Please keep in mind that all of the following measurements are approximate. We are very precise, but your truck may vary by 1/4 inch here and there. I'm only speaking about the measurements we've taken and our R and D experience.



During the rare moments when the T. Rex project truck is sitting peacefully, doing nothing radical, you can measure 5. 75 inches of shaft for available front wheel travel. There is a space of 4. 25 inches between the axle and the bump stops. This allows for 1. 5 inches of rubber bump stop compression before the lower shock mount hits the shock body - a condition we desperately try to avoid because it puts mechanical stress into our aluminum upper shock mount and ultimately the spring bucket. Our mount has been computer stress analyzed to withstand 11,000 lbs and during testing we've bottomed long shocks into it, intentionally trying to break it. So far we can't. Despite it's strength it is a bad design principle to distribute great forces upon small areas. So we use the factory rubber bump stops. They distribute the forces of bottoming out onto the strongest part of the frame directly under the motor mounts.



The height of our tower is a very important dimension. It's the way we isolate the mechanical stress of bottoming from it. The spring bucket is designed to withstand the mechanical stresses of spring compression and our aluminum shock mounts are designed to withstand the hydraulic stresses imposed by a shock absorber that is doing four times the work of an OE shock.



Now you're probably wondering what this has to do with track bars. Let me tell you:



It's all about those little rubber OE bump stops. Like the spring buckets, those little rubber bump stops were designed by Dodge to do something very specific and important. Their dimension is as important as every dimension in the rest of the system. When we bottom the truck HARD - usually when we hit something we didn't see while driving at high speed at night in Baja - the bump stops will compress to a maximum of exactly 1. 25 inches. This gives 1/4 inch of shock shaft showing - so no mechanical bottoming of the shock can occur. We know it can't occur because if we can't do it, nobody can. Nobody would treat their personal vehicle the way we treat this company truck.



More in the next post...

 

[kentkroeker]

OK, Kent, shut up! What about the track bar?



Well, when you set your trick, adjustable track bar to a longer than OE dimension so your axle can be perfectly in line again *while the truck is static,* what do you think happens when you start to cycle your suspension up and down? As the axle drops down it moves to the driver's side. As it comes up, it moves to the passenger's side - just like OE. But when you change the dimension of the bar, you're changing the dimension for the WHOLE cycle, not just one part. So when your axle drops away, extending, it's always farther to the passenger side than the OE design, and when it's compressed, it's farther to the passenger's side than the OE design. So what does this mean? It means that suspension is dynamic and not static like many would like to think! It means that when you install an adjustable track bar to "center" your axle when the truck is sitting there, not moving, not taking bumps, not doing anything, you're not really "centering" anything. You're only changing _ when _ the axle is centered - that one point, a point that is essentially irrelevant because the truck is not moving. When the truck is moving (doing what trucks do), the suspension is also moving. When is your axle "centered?" Never - because it's always moving _through_ that one centered point. If you install an adjustable track bar that is adjusted longer to center the axle on a "leveled" truck, your axle is actually less "centered" than with the OE track bar - because as the suspension articulates it's always just situated farther toward the passenger's side. And this is no big deal if you just drive your truck down the street and when you park to get a burger and look back at your truck, it's sitting there with its front axle _appearing_ nice and "centered" - an illusion. Off road, when it's important to have all your suspension components doing the right thing at the right time - this is where it matters.



... which brings me back to the bump stops and that quarter inch of shock shaft that still shows after a nasty bottom out...



There are small pads on the axle that the bump stops flatten out upon. If a longer track bar is used, it causes a more exaggerated sideways moment on the rubber bump stops. The OE track bar was designed to place the rubber bump stops on the exact center of their respective pads. With a longer track bar, when you bottom out, the whole assembly has now shifted to the passenger side - out of OE spec. Now the bump stops are compressing in a spot they weren't designed to compress on - with a really exaggerated movement due to very sloppy track bar adjustment, the driver's side bump stop can even hit the lower spring mount! Now there is a sideways compression that makes the bump stop less effective - or compression on the radius of the axle. Now ALL your control arms and control arm bushings are flexing more to the passenger's side than they were designed to withstand (so they wear out faster).



NOW you lose that quarter inch of extra shock shaft and the shock bottoms on itself and you send a 7000 lb mechanical sine wave through the aluminum shock mount, spring bucket and the rest of the truck. Do that 100 times in 1000 miles of Baja and your chassis is toast. Because you change the way something looks without taking into consideration its function, you've just destroyed your truck. This may not matter to most people, but it matters to us - we're jumping a giant vehicle six feet into the air - stuff better be correct.



Ok, Kent, mellow out! What's an inch of lateral movement? What's the big deal - it's a big truck - who cares? [see, you guys are making me crazy and now I'm talking to myself at 11pm! hahaha - just kidding, I love this stuff]



An inch can mean the difference between making it home with great stories to tell and getting stranded in the middle of nowhere in Baja and dying in the desert because your suspension or some other component let you down. That's why we modify things very, very carefully. That's why we run a bone stock motor and bring lots of water, parts and tools wherever we go. The slightest modification can mean the difference between survival and failure.



We think the DT track bar is an excellent piece of gear. And its adjustable feature is fine for tuning out factory aberrations. We also feel that it should be adjusted with THE SPRINGS REMOVED, THE AXLE RAISED AND THE BUMP STOPS RESTING IN THEIR PROPER POSITION. Then you can ensure that you are putting your truck right at OE spec - potentially even to a higher precision than OE tolerances - we've seen some OE track bars that don't even put the bump stops in exactly the right place! This is where we feel that the DT track bar is second to none.



***We also feel that one may be able to somehow adjust the track bar to work exactly as it was designed and that it will place the bump stop correctly _and_ center the axle on a leveled truck _and_ not put extra stress on control arms and their bushings***



however, this has not been our experience.



It's our opinion that one should not use it to "center" the axle with our system. If you want to you can; you won't break our parts. But, with hard use you may break your truck. Remember, this is the opinion of T. Rex Engineering and should not be construed as absolute truth - but our opinion has come from a heck of a lot of testing and breaking stuff.



Now, the control arm question. Control arms move on an arc - they are part of your suspension and therefore are dynamic. When you use a spring that "lifts" the chassis a bit or "lowers" the axle - depending on how you look at it - the control arms move down. They move on an arc so they bring the tire closer to the back of the fenderwell. When you hit a bump, they move up and out on their arc, bringing the axle forward, away from the rear fenderwell and toward the front. That's how the big tires we run clear the rear portion of the fenderwell - and we haven't cut anything there. Just remember that unlike a leaf-sprung front end, when the truck is sitting static, your five-link Dodge will always move your tire forward, away from your rear fenderwell.



There are a couple of reasons why lift kit companies include longer control arms. With longer lifts - four inches and over, for example, the main reason is to keep positive caster in the drivetrain. Caster is important because it helps center the wheels when you let go of the steering wheel. It also prevents bump steer. It may, with certain tire and wheel combos, aid in fitting something bigger. However, with the correct wheel, you just don't need 'em. Our experience says we don't need 'em - especially with the 2003 - because of the way the driver's side track bar mounts. Longer control arms will mess this up because the bushing is oriented longitudinally with the truck body (a much better design) rather than horizontally (a sloppy, poorly designed nightmare). Fitment of a longer _bottom_ control arm may be possible, but I fail to see its usefulness.



Oh, the spring question - I agree that those big lift blocks are not the best design, but the theory is that less arch can be used in the spring to provide a more supple feel while still retaining high weight bearing. If you did away with the OE lift blocks, you would have to use a leaf pack four inches wider that the one you currently have! - visions of a stiff, heinous ride, but less axle wrap - Or you would have to re-arch your pack to gain four inches - visions of a stiff, heinous ride - with more axle wrap than OE. So what to do? Stick with OE in my opinion. Or have a very smart spring designer, such as Jeff at "Deaver Spring" in Santa Anna, make you something special.



Hope all this helps!

 

[Dane]

Baja is nothing but washboard roads of varying degrees – from endless, closely-spaced four inch clay bumps, to endless four foot deep, spread out sand whoops (BIG washboard)

Kent, that's the best description of Baja dirt roads I've heard. I've logged at least a few thousand miles in Baja, about 20% of that on dirt roads exactly like you describe. You forgot to mention doing the "pot hole boogie" on the asphalt past El Rosario on Hwy 1



Question -



Can I use the King shocks you have valved for our Ram/Cummins trucks with my Skyjacker springs? I have the D25s up front and their 3" leafs in back...

 

[Clinton]

Kent, Thank you for your time. I'll have to digest all this for a while, but I'm satisfied for now. The exchange of information that takes place here on the TDR forums continues to amaze me. This kind of exchange may well be the best advertising a savy manufacturer and informed consumers could ever hope for. Good luck to you and the T-Rex crew. Kind regards.

 

[kentkroeker]

Thanks for the compliments, Gents! I don't know if we're a "savvy manufacturer," If we were, we would be mass-marketing junk parts and making tons of money selling lift blocks to Billy Bob so he can drive through the swamp in his back yard. We sell to a smaller, more elite fringe of customers who want more performance than that. I think we've got a great product due to a LOT of hard work and testing. We're just regular guys who have mangled a lot of parts and we're trying to explain why and how you can avoid it in the future! If you get a cup of coffee and go pop the wheels of your truck, pull up a chair and sit there and think deeply about how your suspension moves, all the stuff I've been saying will be very straight forward and logical.



if I've made a mistake somewhere (a distinct possibility due to the amount of info. and the fact that I'm selling suspension all day, then writing all night) please call me on it so I can explain what I probably meant to say.



Oh, the question about the springs - you certainly may run our system with those springs. We can even valve your shocks to work with them - since we know the spring rate. However, to install our system, you've got to remove the springs anyway, so why not use our spring? If you like the way your truck sits with your springs, you can just try out our dampening for a while and then switch springs later if you prefer. You won't damage your truck or anything.





Oh, did you guys know that the OE left and right springs are a different rate? Different wire thickness on the driver's side - two different part numbers.



Have a good one!





Best Regards,



Kent Kroeker

T. Rex Engineering