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RAdiator Fan Removed

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another egt probe question

anyone lower your dually

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Yesterday I removed my radiator fan and clutch *** . from my truck. Just to get me through the winter I put a 16" fan on the front of the condencer and hooked it up to run anytime the A/C is on. I also plan on having a manual over ride inside the truck.

Here is what I have found so far... .

The truck is alot queiter first thing in the morning. It also responds faster at any throttle setting.

I am going to run like this until spring when I also have a 18" electric fan for the inside that will be hooked up to a thermostat as well as having a manual over ride inside the cab.

Right now here in Utah our highs are in the high 30s so I haven't been able to see if there will be a problem with heating up until spring. I do get up to temp faster also.

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EAT'M UP
97 2500 Club 4X4 3. 54, Forrest Green/Driftwood, LSD 5 speed, & Psychotty Air System, TST #11, 370 HP injectors, timing at 16 deg. , 16CM2 housing, AFC spring kit, Geno's Exhaust Blanket, TST EGT gauge & 0-60 boost gauge in A Pillar, Cat-be-gone, 4" Dynomax Bullet muffler, Crome 4" turn down, AmsOil Through out, Geno's trans filter kit, AmsOil Bypass system, Lund Winter front, Leer Cab Level Shell Driftwood , 255/85R16, Dyno'd 342 HP pre injectors & turbo housing *NRA/USPSA member and proud of it*
 
drawson,
I was looking at using a couple of 15" fans, they were rated at about 2600cfm each. I thought maybe with two of them, I could get by without the OEM setup. A couple of questions for you. What's the cfm rating for the one's your talking about? What's the max amp pull? Who makes them? How much were they?

I've seen the question asked many times if an electric fan could suffice, so I think a lot of us will be watching for your results.

Good Luck
Banshe Bill
 
Not a bad idea... . Once you get up there in hp, there will be too much thermal load on the engine for the electric fans to compensate for. For regular to mildly massaged engines, the electric fans are okay.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program
 
illflem, I for now am running with my Lund covers off. I will probibly try them here shortly it's getting even colder here.

Banshe, the 16" I have on the front right now is rated at 2100 CFM as a puller, I don't know what it is rated as a pusher. I came up with the idea for this pusher this summer when I would come to a stop and the A/C would get hot until I was moving. I do feel the air the fan is pushing on the inside of the radiator. I have a 10 AMP fuse right now on the fan and it hasn't blown yet. I think this 16" was rated at 7. 5 AMPS.

Chris, how much HP is too much?

In the morning I am going to be towing a back hoe which is really heavy I'll let you all know how this goes. I'll bet I won't even run the fan but it's only suppost to get to 40 deg tomorrow.




[This message has been edited by drawson (edited 11-12-2000). ]
 
Towed the Back hoe today both directions. Upopn getting to the sight this morning I got out letting the EGT come down and could hear the fan running. I thought I had kicked the switch inside but I had it on defrost which turns on the A/C and now my outside fan. I was running cooler than I thought it should going up to the sight. On the way back turned it to heat and the engine temp and EGTs where slightly higher for the 2 mile of back roads as soon as I hit the freeway they run right back down to where they always run pulling this heavy beast.
 
I have been running fanless for several months now. I put my winter front on a week ago of so. I have seen nothing related to coolant or oil temp changes (warmer) as compared to running with a fan. I only worry about the AC system (defrost in the winter).

The engine is noticeably quieter.

Unless your pulling something or sitting on a dyno, I don't think one could generate enough heat with a empty truck to get into trouble without a fan. I towed a 20' stock trailer with temps in low 80's through the black hills with no problems running fanless. Now if I had had double trailers on or that trailer was full of critters I would have had the fan in to keep from backing out of it in the hills!

Dawson... . Where and How much for the electric fan?

jjw
ND
 
JJW, I picked up both of my fans at a part house that was going out of business. I only paid 10c on the dollar for both of these fans compared to what I see them advertised for at Summit. The one I have on right now is a 16" Turbo Cool and the the other is a Perma Cool 18" with steel blades.
 
Drawson,
I think 300-350 hp is the ceiling for running with the electric fans. Anything beyond that, I'd opt for the Horton. In the winter the lower temps will allow for running with no fan at all. I've done it in the past during the winters, too. Heck, the Auto Wurks race truck doesn't use a fan, it has electric fans. We don't even use them for the whole blast down the quarter mile.
Try it out, just be careful.

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Chris Timochko
1997 5sp 4X4, HX40, BD 4" Brake, Marine Compression, Custom Tuned Injection Pump, 370B Injection Nozzles, Delivery Valves, Governor & AFC Spring Kit, Psychotty Air, Water Injection, NOS Diesel Kit, 6" Chrome Exhaust System, No Smoke Valet Switch, McLeod Dual Disc Clutch, Mag-Hytec Rear Cover, Cummins Chrome Kit, Optima Red Tops, Hadley Bully Horns, Hurst Line Loc, Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 305/70/16s. Test mule for Auto Wurks Diesel race program
 
I put my weather front on this morning and ran it all day. This is the first time in my trucks life that the temp. doesn't flux up and down below 50 deg. Upon warm up the temp went up to approx. 170 deg and stayed there.

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[This message has been edited by drawson (edited 11-14-2000). ]
 
Next best thing to a Horton upgrade is the fan removal in the colder months. Be sure to carry the fan with you as I had to install mine a few times in the boonies.

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Owner: Stabco Repower, The turbo housing guys. '89, CC, SB, 5sp, 3. 54, 16cm2 housing, maxed fuel, KN, Banks exh w/muffler, Horton fan clutch, Autometer liquid filled gauges, Accessory tach option, 100% Dyna-Mat, Borgeson steering shaft, Firestone air bags, Chrysler V-twin air comp, 2. 5" lift, Rancho Shocks, Alcoa LTS wheels, BFG 255/85/R16 MTs (33. 3")
 
drawson,

GREAT idea taking the fan off for the winter months. I WISH I HAD DONE THIS 5 YEARS AGO. #ad


Truck is MUCH quieter, especially @ idle.

Truck gets up to operating temperature much faster.

Idle speed increased by about a 1/2 a needle's width, maybe 25 RPM's

Truck seems like it's gained 50 HP off idle to redline. No kidding. You are right when you said throttle response is better. I was really surprised.

I got my operating tempature up to 190º for the first time ever. I'd swear the truck has more power, is quietier and burns cleaner at about a 190º water temperature.

Fuel ecomomy has IMPROVED, BIG TIME. My fuel gauge needle has hardly moved since I pulled the fan. It has to be a 2-3 MPG increase. It sure looks like it. I think the higher operating tempature is helping the mileage too.

No change in EGT's without the fan. None. Temperatures no different than with the fan. Pulled A/C compressor relay also (for defroster use).

I have the radiator completely blocked with cardboard. The coolant temperature will get to 190º in about 7-8 miles. It has not gone higher than that. I can pull down the coolant temperature by about 20º by turning on the blower fan on high. I may need uncover the radiator a little on a longer drive. I tried driving fanless with the radiator uncovered. It [engine tempature] was similar to running with the fan. Covering the radiator really helps build some heat into the system. I don't haul or tow.

I wish Horton's clutch was more affordable. Syclone was supposed to be designing a electromagnetic clutch for the B series engine.

I'd say pulling the fan for the winter is one of the BEST mods I've done to the truck. Thanks for the idea drawson. #ad


I hope to go deep in late spring/early summer running fanless. (I don't want it back on now) #ad


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Bill R
94 2500 SLT 4x4 5 Speed, 3. 54 LS, JRE 4" exhaust, Autometer Pyro, Boost & Water temp gauges, Bosch 215 HP injectors, Timing @ 14. 7 º, JRE Stage III #4 plate 270/675, AFC spring kit, Scotty Air, Bully Dog Propane Injection, Roadmaster Active Suspension, Optima Red Tops, Geno`s Exhaust Blanket,Espar Heater (won it!), Synthetic lubes throughout.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-11-2001). ]
 
It sure is nice isn't it,wish I'd of done it years ago. Read somewhere that the fan takes 22 hp to run when engaged,although I find this hard to believe,I know it takes a lot of power,even freewheeling.

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95' 25004X4,AT,Driftwood,Banks Stinger,Warn fender flairs and running boards(work truck)
95 3500,5 speed 3:54,Driftwood,Banks&Psycotty,34,000 GCVW apple and tractor hauler(works harder truck)
 
Any way to get this thang off w/o removing the shroud?
Does the fan have to be unbolted from the viscous unit, or will it come out as one piece?
TIA Eric

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 59,000 Mi as of 10/21/00.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

[This message has been edited by The patriot (edited 01-09-2001). ]
 
Eric, I didn't need to remove the shroud or oil fill pipe. It can be pulled out when you find the right angle. I think I had to push the top radiator hose out of the way. It was easy. You just unscrew the 1 7/16" hex nut from the threaded shaft on the pulley. It has LEFT handed threads. The fan & viscous clutch was come off as 1 assembly.

See my post "Fan Clutch removal" in the 12V forums. This was the hardest part of the job. Getting the hex nut loosened.



[This message has been edited by HEMI®Dart (edited 01-09-2001). ]
 
Thanks H-D. Had the dam thing off, the 1 7/16 nut wasnt a big problem for me.
Was rattling the thing around in there for a good 20 mins. boogering up radiator fins etc.
Said to myself "to h*ll with this" and put it back on.
It's been pretty cold here, I'll give it a go tomorrow.
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Hemi, I'm glad to hear your happy. I have towed w/o my fan in temps in the mid 40s w/ no problems what so ever. I would guess some where 50-60 deg a fan will be needed. I will have two electric fans. My milage is about the same as it was before winter fuel hit, which is up 1 1/2 MPG over last winter.
 
I installed the Horton and then drove from Tucson to San Diego hauling my 5th wheel and only time the fan kicked in was when I turned the A/C on and when I hit the mountains out side San Diego. I didn't turn the A/C on until the ambient temps were in the 70's. My coolant temp was typically about 150-160. Seldom did I see the thermostat open wide, but when it did, the temp would drop right down to 140 and slowly move back to 150-160 range. I also have a heavy duty radiator installed, but it appears that even towing a load (13K lbs) at highway speeds, with a stock radiator, you could probably get by with the electric fan setup. Now, hauling in 90 degree temps, at low speed, with A/C on could be a problem. When my Horton dies, I'm gonna try the electric route.

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'95, 2500, 4X4, ext cab, white, 3. 54 rear end, auto transmission
Griffin Radiator, Banks Power Pak, Kondolay TC, Kondolay VB, 16cm Turbo, 4" exhaust, Horton Fan, Bosch 215, BD Governor Springs, Brite Box, Mag Hytec transmission Pan, aux transmission Cooler, Bully Dog Propane, Wiley Coyote strapped to my grill
 
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