Radiator re-core, IC cleaning, etc

[Sri Ram]

Getting set to pull radiator to re-core and fix leaking lower stub. I'm also gonna replace the water pump and belt tensioner and clean out the intercooler. I got a fan removal/serp belt holder kit from NAPA (expensive). Any tips/advice/suggestions from those who have done any of these jobs?

 

[matches]

Why are you removing the fan? Why are you replacing the water pump? Even if you are replacing the water pump and or belt tensioner you don't need to remove the fan, not even to pull the radiator. My truck stock water pump @ 193k, I replaced the radiator just because of the years, and I switched to evans coolant, but it was really simple. New replacement was around $200, while the recore was close to $150. 00.

 

[Sri Ram]

Whether I need to or not, don't you think it's easier to get around in there with the fan outta the way, especially since I'm doing a few things at once? I figure if I'm gonna do it right, I may as well replace the pump and tensioner 'cause I've never replaced them before and everything else on the truck was neglected when I got it.



As for the radiator, I sourced a new one for around $300 and almost bought it until I found out it was made in Thailand. A shop here uses cores from Canada and the existing frame which is no doubt better made than the new one. Total cost for re-core/repair should be under $250.

 

[dpuckett]

I dont think matches was questiomning your judgement. It's just that with these engines, and their relatively light duty cycle, you have to think more in terms of Class8 truck mileage than regular pickup mileage as far as parts wearing out -fuel system excluded, ironically, the light dudty cycle wears them faster. But, if you have the money, and are already doing other stuff, it's good preventive medicine. Just hang onto the old WP if it looks ok- someone here will be broke and need an emergency replacement. I dont think you'd need to remove anything to get to the WP, but I could be mistaken.



Daniel

 

[Sri Ram]

I dont think matches was questioning your judgement.

Why not, I do it all the time! :-laf It was so easy to pull the fan, I just went ahead and did it. The WP looked fine but I swapped it anyway. There's a $35 core refund if I send it to Re-Con. Ya really think I ought to keep it? The belt tens seemed fine, too, although the new one has a lot more tension in the spring. I noticed the new one has more plastic parts and the cast metal is cheaper, too



The IC was a bear to get out. Yer supposed to discharge the AC and pull the oil cooler to get at it. I opted to slightly modify the opening in the radiator support through which the oil cooler lines run. Then I was able to swivel the cooler out and down 90 deg leaving barely enough room to tip the IC out. If anyone wants more info, let me know.

 

[Sri Ram]

While I have it out, can anyone tell me what is acceptable leakdown on these IC's?



Edit: Cummins B series shop manual says if it holds 30 psi and leaks 7 psi or less in 15 sec, it's good. Does this apply to the Mopar intercooler?

 

[dpuckett]

How are you planning to go about cleaning out your IC? Mine could definitely use it.



Daniel

 

[Sri Ram]

How are you planning to go about cleaning out your IC?

I took both radiator and IC to a radiator shop. Had the guy there pressure wash the fins and then shoot flaming hot water through the pipes to wash out any oil, etc. He let it dry overnight and then shot some hot air through it, too, just to make sure it was dry--as if a little water would hurt! Also had him do the leakdown test. From 91 manual: pressurize to 30 psi; if it leaks less than 7psi in 15sec, it's within spec. It looked much cleaner when I got it back.



I put the IC back in yesterday. Whew, is it ever a chore getting that inlet boot on! The silicone boots don't stretch much. I used Tri-flow to slide them on. What do others use?



Looking forward to the new radiator…

 

[dpuckett]

Good deal. I have access to a hot water machine- like up to 250deg. Just have to see if we have any regular hose attachments for it.



-DP

 

[mysteryman]

cleaning I/C

caustic is what rad. shops use to clean rads... Caustic (sodium hydroxide) will disolve Aluminum ! All that is going to be found in the IC is oil from a leaky turbo. Solvents is what is needed to clean the IC safely... Perc or trichlor are my first choices... . A cheap easy way to clean it is to fill it up with gasoline and let it sit for a week. Be sure all the gas is dried out before you reinstall it.

How are you planning to go about cleaning out your IC? Mine could definitely use it.



Daniel

 

[stakedd]

I know some people think it is just a myth, but after changing dozens of radiators the ones that have ran distilled water are in better condition internally. not much cost involved.

 

[Sri Ram]

I know some people think it is just a myth, but after changing dozens of radiators the ones that have ran distilled water are in better condition internally. not much cost involved.

Do you mean it's better not to use antifreeze?! Wouldn't this hurt warm-up and peak operating temps?

 

[Greenleaf]

I pull the fan often on the late model rigs because it's so easy to do. The early trucks have a coolant hose just above it so the procedure has to be justified.



-S

 

[JLEONARD]

All that is going to be found in the IC is oil from a leaky turbo. Solvents is what is needed to clean the IC safely... Perc or trichlor are my first choices

Triclor is totally illegal around here. None to found anywhere unless you have a stash (I don't).

The marine guys use dish detergent and water to clean the intake systems. They do it while under load and obviously we can't. I've cleaned out the wife's Jetta's system with detergent and it worked pretty well and it's all safe. A little water left in there won't hurt anything... the engine will just ingest it all in stride.

Hope this helps.

Jay