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Radiator Replacement?

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DBrundage

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Any one had to replace a radiator? I am still verifying but it looks like the plastic side cap may be leaking. I keep using coolant and it will puddle a little on the driver's side from the driver's side of the radiator.

Overflow bottle is not leaking. I live in Colorado and haven't been running hot. I pull hay and cattle several times a year but never much above 14,000 GVWR. I keep the speed at about 60 mph when hauling.

Coolant usage is erratic. I'll go for 2-3 weeks and then poof, overflow bottle is low. Trying to figure out if the usage is related to longer runs and more heat build up other than 5-10 mile jaunts around town.

Sure don't want to put another plastic/aluminum radiator back in.

Any ideas?
 
First, fill out your signature line so we know what you have . Are you positive its not just the draincock leaking down there ? Check it and get back to us !
 
Make sure it's not the upper radiator hose! Maybe that goes without saying, but I thought I better say it anyway.

Otherwise, if it is a leaky end cap, I'm all for changing to something that doesn't have plastic in it. Of course, that'll have to be completely custom.

-Ryan
 
Recently changed both hoses/coolant/cap. Not upper radiator hose. Cap is on the passengers side. Cap is not leaking. Leak is on the driver's side. Modine may make a brass replacement. I'll try to remember to call tomorrow. Just hoped some else had changed one.
Don
 
Depending on your elevation and type of use, a 7# cap may be all you need. Takes a lot of stress off the radiator and hoses. I've had one on my '03 since new.
 
If your type of use never gets you much past the center of the guage (200 deg. ), I would think the 7# would be fine. At atmosperic pressure at 7000', your 50% mixture will boil at about 215 degrees. At 7 PSI, that temperature is raised to about 245 degrees. The 15# cap will buy an additional 20 degrees. If you're that close to boiling, the cooling system has another problem that should be corrected instead of masking it with a higher pressure cap.
 
I replaced my radiator early this year. If you have to end up going that route, give me a shout. And do not trust the service manual, it leaves out a lot of steps and precautions.
 
While I have not looked into radiator replacement, there is probably someone in the aftermarket industry who makes an all aluminum replacement radiator for our trucks. That would end the plastic ends and make for a better replacement. Of course, it would certainly be more expensive that a standard replacement radiator, but it would get the plastic totally out of the picture and be a much better solution. Maybe someone here knows of an aluminum replacement ?? and will chime in ?? If/when my radiator starts to have the usual issues that goes with the plastic ends, this will be the direction I take.







CD
 
Leak

I too had to change my radiator ealier this year. Had a couple holes chaffed thru from shroud. Got a lifetime warrantied one, went ahead and changed everything else along with it, cap, belt, hoses, WP, etc. . Like stated above, manual leaves out a few steps...
 
Thanks.
Does the NAPA one have aluminum core/plastic caps?
I know sometimes it is possible to get an all metal replacement, just eliminates the same thing happening in the future.
 
Rest of the story.
Apparently, tightening the upper radiator hose again and replacing the overflow bottle hose eliminated the that it was not radiator leaking.
Silly me, I kept looking for a coolant leak behind the fan, thinking that was where the water pump was. I thought what actually is the water pump was just an idler pulley on the serpentine belt. When I realized where the water pump really was, it was obvious that it had been leaking.
It's quick to change. Loosen the serpentine belt, two bolts and a rap with the rubber mallet and it was off. Turn it sideways and work it out the fan blades. Took longer to drain and refill the coolant than to change the water pump. 138,000 miles on in.
 
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