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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Radiator Replacement

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RMHanes

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Have been noticing a drop in coolant over the last few weeks. Thought might be this block 53 problem but no evidence of leakage. Tonight when just turned off truck to check level noticed whispers of steam from backside of radiator. Looked closer and there is a leak and thereby indication of a crack in the radiator. Other than going back to Dodge, are there any recommendations of best place and manufacturer of a replacement radiator? Looked at RockAuto and generally about $150 but some reviews read said that these might not hold up for the long haul so to speak. How hard is it to replace? Truck is a 1998.5 with about 150K miles. With the radiator out, thinking of replacing the water pump also. Opinions? Good time to replace some other parts?
 
I've been running a Spectra Premium from Rock Auto for the past 150K miles with no problems. Granted, I don't tow, generally just my daily driver. If your factory radiator only lasted 150K I wouldn't worry about this one holding "up for the long haul so to speak."

Replacement is not difficult. Most folks have more problems trying to get the drain valve loose than replacing the radiator.

I wouldn't replace the water pump until needed. The radiator does not need to come out to replace it. The only thing I would suggest is to clean the intercooler while the radiator is out.
 
Spectra is an OE supplier, so their stuff ought to be good. I've used them in several cars and have never had a problem. I have a Performance Radiator in my truck which has worked well for six years. I've used their stuff in a number of cars too. I had one failure in a BMW and it was warranteed with no hassle.

Is your original radiator copper/brass or aluminum/plastic? Mine was copper/brass, and on principle I sorta regret not having it rebuilt, though I don't regret not having to reinstall that heavy SOB! It started leaking at 173K & 14 years.
 
Mine crapped out at around 325k. Replaced with a performance radiator as Charliefoxtrot mentioned and so far so good though it has only been about a year.
 
Thanks to all on the advice about RockAuto. Will go to the site and order the Spectra Premium. The presently installed radiator seems to be copper/brass and will be heavy because of the size and also the material. Looked at the area tonight and seems that once get the fan shroud out of the way there should be enough room to work. Now need to find a bucket or something to catch as much of the coolant being as just put fresh in a few months ago.
 
Got the old radiator out but when put the new one in it did not line up with the mounting holes in the frame. After looking and taking it in and out a few times saw that the "post or leg" at the bottom on the passenger side on the replacement was the same size as the driver side. The original radiator passenger side is smaller in diameter. Since it was getting late stopped to figure out what to do. Might have to either make the receiving hole in the frame bigger or somehow make the passenger side "post" smaller. Have any other people had this problem? Oh, putting a piece of tubing on the drain valve of the radiator helped in directing the coolant into a 5 gallon pail.
 
Never heard that one before. Are you certain you don't have one of the rubber bushings still in place somewhere? The one I bought fit right in with no problems. It's a '98 also.
 
Sorry about the delay in getting back to this. The problem did indeed turn out to be a stuck rubber bushing. Once got that removed from the frame, the replacement radiator went in and all of the holes lined up perfectly. Took about 4 or 5 trips to get all of the air worked out and topped the overflow reservoir about this many times also. The replacement was plastic and guessing alum but as long as it works no complaints. The original was all metal and was a bit heavy in getting out. For other folks that do this, when refill the windshield washer tank, the empty light will go out once the truck is started and stopped the first time. Thought has a problem as had refilled it and the light did not go out until did this quite by accident. Might be talked about in the truck shop manual also. Now need to read up and figure out how to replace the oil pressure sending unit. A bit unnerving when driving on the interstate and the oil pressure suddenly goes to 0 and then back to normal from time to time and for no apparent reason. Seem to remember a thread about this somewhere. Access will be the main problem from what can tell.
 
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