Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Radiator Service: Shops say bad idea!

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

As part of my head gasket job I removed the radiator to take to a shop to be boiled out and pressure checked, since everyone suggests to do that. Sounds like a smart thing to do to me!



I called two local shops that are trustworthy and they both asked "does it overheat or leak?" and I said "Well, No" and their response was "then don't do anything with it, just clean out the bugs and rocks and flush it with desalinizer. Do NOT use regular radiator flush. "



I say "Ooookaaayyy"



Thoughts or comments? With 353,000 miles I would like it serviced in some way.



Vaughn

 

[DPelletier]

Other than perhaps being a waste of money, I can't see what possible harm it could do. I'd do it. Any buildup on the inside of the rad has a negative effect on its ability to transfer heat.



Dave

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Dave their reasoning was hot tanking it would weaken or damage it. I thought that was odd. Maybe I should actually take it in for them to see and find out if I get the same response. I would really like to do it while it's out and it would be convenient.



I noticed some green corrosion around the edges when cleaning it tonight so it could be it's starting to fail. If that's the case I would probably replace it with a 24v HO radiator since they probably have more capacity. I would hate to find out what one costs though!



Vaughn

 

[RHARVEY]

I replaced my radiator a couple of weeks ago because it was started to heat on hard pulls. The radiator shop here in town that has done all my work to me that he could hot tank and rod this radiator but he said that with his experience with the Dodge radiators that it would leak! Those plastic tank jobs just dont hold up and he cant get any steel or brass tanks anymore. So I just sprung for a new radiator for a tune of $350. Now the temp come up but it takes long on the hard pulls and it dont stay there long. . It has made a difference in the heating. .

The stock radiator had 220,000 miles on it. .



Rick

 

[DPelletier]

If hot tanking is going to make it leak, I submit that perhaps there is a problem with the rad! When I used to be in the auto parts industry, we had a supplier for recored radiators. I'm not sure if they do re-cores with plastic tanks (if that's what yours is), but it couldn't hurt to check. New is always nice!



Cheers

Dave

 

[BV]

Vaughn - It's because of the caustic hot tank solution working on the plastic tanks with rubber seal. Some shops are good at recoring but most have problems with the tanks leaking afterwards.



Sure glad the FrankenDezul has lead holding it together :-laf :-laf :-laf

 

[PUMPERDUDE]

Since you already have it out,I'd get a price on a new one and be worry free for another 350k miles... . I'm sure the shops are turning down the work for a good reason... . My 95 has a pinhole leak that I can see if I don't run the truck for a few days. Leaks maybe a cup a week :-laf Tried the Barsleak with no luck. If it gets worse ,I'll probably put a new one.

 

[Deezul1]

If the guys that do it for a living say dont do it instead of making money from you they might have a very good reason, it sure isnt because they dont want money.

 

[mechanic]

As part of my head gasket job I removed the radiator to take to a shop to be boiled out and pressure checked, since everyone suggests to do that. Sounds like a smart thing to do to me!



I called two local shops that are trustworthy and they both asked "does it overheat or leak?" and I said "Well, No" and their response was "then don't do anything with it, just clean out the bugs and rocks and flush it with desalinizer. Do NOT use regular radiator flush. "



I say "Ooookaaayyy"



Thoughts or comments? With 353,000 miles I would like it serviced in some way.



Vaughn

I agree with your shop. The Valeo radiators are good on the first go around, but are difficult to impossible to rebuild successfully. (With some notable exceptions) The copper/brass core with plastic tanks tend to develope cracks it the header plates in the area where the gasket seals. This can cause the sudden loss of coolant. I never even try to repair these type of radiators. That said, if it is not overheating, and not leaking, and if you look in it with a good light and check for "solder bloom" (looks like a fluffy growth on the solder) around the tubes, I would reuse it.

The aluminum core with plastic tanks is another story. They can be repaired without a substantial risk. I highly recommend these units. They have a higher BTU rejection rate, and last forever with proper maintainence. I just bought one new for $269. 00 at a local radiator outlet. (Auto Radiator Outlet -- In Oklahome City, OK. ) Hope this helps.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Well if radiators are not that terribly expensive. . . I paid over $300 for my stupid Skylark 8 years ago. . . then I'll just replace it. I had no temp issue running AC and climbing a grade in 100F weather, so I think it'll live a little longer, 'til next summer. I gave it a good cleaning and once I get the truck back together I run a desalinizer through then new coolant.



STILL waiting for the machine shop to get my head done. Piers told me I coulda just picked up a brand new head from him complete with valves and HD valve springs for under $700 and saved WEEKS of being out of order. Oh well it's supposed to be done Thursday, they say.



Vaughn