2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Radiator

[GQuigley]

My 2001-1/2 CTD just turned to 200,000 miles. I have never done anything to the radiator except add coolant. I have a 30' 5th wheel but haven't towed it for a couple of years due to health problems. I want to use it this coming summer just to see more of this country and my only concern, at this time is do I need to have my radiator cleaned by just removing it an having all the dirt and bugs cleaned on the outside to allow better air thru it but not touching the inside. The truck has never heated up and when towing my 5'ver in the past it ran at a normal cool temperature. It has been my daily driver for several years now and seems to run fine but I imagine the radiator is getting dirty on the outside but I am concerned with the inside! Just wondering about others previous experience in that area.
Thanks
Gary

 

[GAmes]

What is your coolant color. If it isn't close to new looking a flush prior to removing the radiator is a good idea. While you have it out you can also effectively clean the inter cooler and AC condenser. If your hoses are more than four years old, now is also a good time to replace them. Don't forget the heater hoses.

 

[GQuigley]

GAmes
Thank you! That is much of what I was looking for!!
gARY

 

[SSage]

I wouldn't remove it, your asking for trouble by flexing the core and bolting it up slightly different could stress the radiator in a way that finds a new leak. Just fresh coolant if its clean, maybe a flush if dirty. Older radiators get brittle, the fins and end tanks get weaker with age and heat cycles. 200,000 miles and 14 years is good for an OEM radiator used for towing. I haven't had one go 200K yet personally, usually they die sometime after 100K, usually its the connection to the plastic tanks. My 95 radiator is fairly low miles, but the age caught up with it recently.

They can leak slowly for years, my 95 is using too much coolant now, got a new radiator waiting to go in. It never over heats or runs hot at all, but both of the plastic tanks are leaking a good bit, uses about a gallon per week if driven daily. I always was impressed with the cooling, A/C blowing cold in city traffic pulling 16 to 18,000 pound 5th wheels with no cooling issues even with an auto trans. But, the trans needed to be watched if I ran unlocked too much. I've never had cooling issues with the 2nd gen that stopped me on the road, my 2003 had water pump issues under warranty, but the radiator is tight and original with only 104K. Its probably going to fail soon, my last 2 trucks had radiator issues close to 100K and over 10 years of age. I change my coolant every two years with green stuff.

 

[JR]

If your CCV (breather on front of engine) is still in the factory location your radiator will definitely be saturated in oil. The problem is further compounded if you drive alot of dirt roads or dusty environments.

 

[Mingoglia]

I'd buy a new thermostat from the dealer or Cummins (when I was in the market for one, the parts store thermostats didn't default to the open position when failed), grab some coolant, and do a full flush and replace the thermostat and go from there. While you're at it, also replace your radiator cap. If it's not holding pressure, the boil temp of your coolant/water is lower. If you're still having an issue after all this, your fan clutch may need to be replaced. As the truck heats up, it starts to lock up and spin faster. A quick test is while the truck is off (obviously), give it a spin with your hand. It should only spin a turn or two...if it spins more than that, it may need to be replaced.