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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission %#$%@& radiator

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) stock plate and AFC adjustment

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Spring Hanger for 97CTD

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It had to happen. In 2 weeks we leave for a 3 week vacation, truck and camper, to the canyons Zion, Bryce and Escalante. As i crawled under the truck to put my polyurethane sway bar bushings in, antifreeze dripped onto my forehead :{ It appears i have a leak from the drivers side bottom end of the radiator. A quick check on the NAPA site shows one at $552 :--) You've got to be kidding me!!



Any other suggestions besides suicide?



Brian :(
 
you could try stop leak or one of the type of things , I've used on that looks like a horse pill 3/4" thick 1" round . they worked great on my bigger truck as brush always finds its way too the rad , but I'm only drivin 50 mi max , but they seem too last pretty good
 
You can find them cheaper than that. I got mine for around $350. 00. You may be able to find them cheaper than than with a lifetime warranty too.



Loren
 
Don't waste your money on a new radiator

I've used Bars-Leak, the stuff that looks like ground aluminum, with great success.

Use a quarter of a container at a time till it stops leaking.



Had a surplus Bronco at work whose radiator would leak all the coolant out to the leak level in less than an hour, running or not. Dumped in the Bars-Leak right before I gave the rig away, the new owner drove it 400 miles that day and hasn't had to add any coolant for over a year.



A worker ran a tree branch though a $1200 John Deere radiator, Bars-Leak has rendered it leakless for the past 12 years and several coolant changes.



Although it may sound like it I do not own the Bars-Leak company:cool:
 
I've been advised in the past to avoid stuff like Bars leak as it'll also clog up the engine passages. Is this true with our Cummins?
 
Radiator repair

Have you checked a local radiator repair shop? They are usually fairly reasonable. I hate to use any stop leak items in the cooling system, normal wear and tear does enough to mess things up without help from us. ( just my opinion. )
 
Originally posted by Bhale

It had to happen. In 2 weeks we leave for a 3 week vacation, truck and camper, to the canyons Zion, Bryce and Escalante. As i crawled under the truck to put my polyurethane sway bar bushings in, antifreeze dripped onto my forehead :{ -snip-



Any other suggestions besides suicide?



Brian :(



I have on occasion used stop leak, including all the brands mentioned here. I used the copper-looking stuff suspended in clear goo to save an AMC Concord with a cylinder wall crack. After 30K miles, it's still fine, even here! (The person I sold it to, for $500, now with some money and a better car, wants to give it back!)



After I build an engine, I'll often add half a jar of Bars Leaks (the stuff that looks like dry dog food in brown gravy), but nothing more agressive, just for insurance that all the seals will work.



Because you are headed out on a long trip into hot country, I recommend against stop leak. Try a good radiator shop. They may be able to reseal the tank to tube seal, which may be the problem. Stop leak will also plate out on all the internal passages of the engine and radiator. While it may not plug them up, it will act an an insulator and reduce heat transfer. Usually, this reduction is minor except in heavy use in hot areas.



In the Escalante area, you will be climbing some grades of up to 12%. The worst is short, between Panguitch & Escalante--if you go that way. From Escalante through Boulder to Capitol Reef, you'll encounter some of the most secnic roads in the USA. You'll also find that there is often no shoulder. The grades will be 6% and up, and you'll have one pass of 11K feet and several smaller. Even in September, it will be hot. In "average" vehicles, even without air conditioning, vapor lock is a problem. I'd be wary of driving in this area with a compromised cooling system. You will have no problem finding someone to fix your truck. The area is loaded with CTDs. You will have problems getting it towed and fixed for "just" $600.



By the way, I suggest an overnight stay at the BLM Calf Creek campground, halfway between Escalante and Boulder.
 
I had some damage in that area. When I looked at it closely it looked like it would be very hard to fix. I've got too much money and time invested in this truck and I intend to keep it a long time. Didn't want to worry that it might let go in some inconvenient place. I got a new radiator. The new one is aluminum. No, I don't remember what I paid.
 
The one in my 96' did the same thing , I took it out and to a radiator shop , they checked it and said that it could be fixed , but not to expect it to last , beacause of the way it was made (cheap)

but lucky enough they got me a new one for 275. 00 hope this helps.
 
My brother in law owned a radiator shop (now deceased) told me to never use "stop leaks" and get a can of ginger (spice) and dump in the radiator. He claims it works great. Anyone else heard of this remedy! I haven't had the occasion to try it and have often wondered!
 
These ginger and pepper old time remedies remind me of adding ATF to your fuel.

Why not just use a product that's formulated for the job?



I know a lot of folks are skeptical of stop leaks but my experience has been good.



Anyone know firsthand of problems related to it (not rumors) where the instructions have been followed?
 
I can add another "home remedy" to the list, but I won't recommend it! I once had an early 70's Ranchero with a 351 Cleveland and a radiator apparently made of graham crackers.



Was back home on a trip, and started having problems overheating. Took it to my Dad's favorite mechanic, who was apparently not feeling up to fixing the radiator with any permanence. His solution? He spooned in about half a jar of French's mustard (plain old yellow kind), to my absolute amazement it sealed up the leaks within minutes and stayed watertight all the way back to Austin.



Unfortunately, as I was driving it to school that week, the heater core decided to blow out too. I am driving in East Austin, not the best neighborhood and lots of traffic, when BLAMMO - inside of Ranchero is instantly filled with steam, antifreeze, and mustard squeezings. Near about killed me, I was screeching to a stop frantically cranking down the window with smoke and fog rolling out like Cheech and Chong. Made a truly horrible mess in the interior that smelled like a month-old ballpark hotdog.



I'd stick with the commercial product guys... . :{
 
BHale, her is my . 02 worth. For piece of mind, go get yours checked out by a radiator shop, and if they say it wont last, buy the new one, as its worth the piece of mind that comes with it. It will make your vacations better and just knowing that your truck is ok, and you wont have to worry about it. Have fun and enjoy the trip.
 
I tried Bars Leak once in a flat head Willys. It plugged the thermostat, and I said never again.

If it's life or death or a $500 POS I'd probably use a stop leak additive, but that crap ain't gettin' near my Cummins, or any other piece of machinery I own. I'll spend the money on the parts.

If it's just a leaky seal on your radiator you may be good for a while, depending on where and what you're towing, just top up the coolant bottle every fuel fill.
 
I used the radiator stop leak before in a 95 Impala SS and a few days later my heater core was stopped up! Talk about a cluster F#@!
 
I just replaced mine in March... Not too bad, and I got a new one for like $250. . 2 year warranty... Not bad either. .



-Chris-
 
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