Ram 3500 ABS and Service 4 Wheel Drive lights on

[Phillip Barnes]

ABS and Service 4 Wheel Drive lights on after replacing wheel bearing hubs...
If the engine is started with speed sensors unplugged will this throw a code?
I locked and unlocked the 4WD to torque and seat the bearings.
I don't have a scanner tool...
Is this something that may be cleared or is it more likely a bad connection? Lights were not on prior to replacing bearing hubs.

 

[Ozymandias]

It should clear after a couple miles and start/stop cycles- if you didn't break something along the way.

 

[Phillip Barnes]

It should clear after a couple miles and start/stop cycles- if you didn't break something along the way.

It comes and goes. Mostly on. I did break the red retainer clip in one of the plugs but it seems to be a firm connection.

 

[Ozymandias]

Shouldn't matter.
What brand of bearings did you use?
If it comes and goes it sounds like the air gap isn't just right at one of the sensors.
Now without a decent scanner that can read ABS codes (not many can do that) it's all guessing.

I don't know if Autozone or Napa is able to read the codes. That would be my way to proceed before spending any more money. You need to known what the Car wants to tell you.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

New hubs and old sensors? Now sensors are going off.

Did you clean of any dirt or debris from the sensors before reinstalling in the new hubs.

I agree with Ozy calling into question the hub bearings used, but at this point the deed is done, that's a job...

Knowing what the error codes tell you in this instance really won't make a difference. There's only one sensor on the hub, this only happened after you changed the hubs.

You can look over your installation and verify that it was done right, Check the part number for the hubs you used and verify it has a "intact" tone ring, install new sensors, or remove the hubs and do the job over again with a different brand and new sensors.

For what its worth if I had to use unit bearing hubs I'd get SKF (I'm running Spyntec locking hubs), and either a WVE or NTK branded wheel speed sensor, no need for the Mopar stuff...

 

[Phillip Barnes]

Shouldn't matter.
What brand of bearings did you use?
If it comes and goes it sounds like the air gap isn't just right at one of the sensors.
Now without a decent scanner that can read ABS codes (not many can do that) it's all guessing.

I don't know if Autozone or Napa is able to read the codes. That would be my way to proceed before spending any more money. You need to known what the Car wants to tell you.

I used OEM hubs and sensors purchased from the local dealer.

 

[Phillip Barnes]

New hubs and old sensors? Now sensors are going off.

Did you clean of any dirt or debris from the sensors before reinstalling in the new hubs.

I agree with Ozy calling into question the hub bearings used, but at this point the deed is done, that's a job...

Knowing what the error codes tell you in this instance really won't make a difference. There's only one sensor on the hub, this only happened after you changed the hubs.

You can look over your installation and verify that it was done right, Check the part number for the hubs you used and verify it has a "intact" tone ring, install new sensors, or remove the hubs and do the job over again with a different brand and new sensors.

For what its worth if I had to use unit bearing hubs I'd get SKF (I'm running Spyntec locking hubs), and either a WVE or NTK branded wheel speed sensor, no need for the Mopar stuff...

See reply to Ozyman above - Going by my BIL's truck lot later today to get his mechanic to scan and clear any codes if possible. I'm not real keen on taking four hours to roll around on the ground for a redo (but I will when options exhausted).
Thanks for the input on aftermarket. Just because I bought OEM doesn't mean there isn't a problem there...

 

[Phillip Barnes]

I used OEM hubs and sensors purchased from the local dealer.

...on the AZ reading ABS codes, seems like I was told someplace that they won't get involved with it due to "potential". I understand.

 

[Ozymandias]

I used OEM hubs and sensors purchased from the local dealer.

So good quality stuff. No problems to expect from this side.

Get the codes, you need them to work from here.

It's also possible that you see an ABS problem that has nothing go do with the Job you just did.
These Kelsey-Haines Units where infamous for cold solder problems.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

Just because I bought OEM doesn't mean there isn't a problem there...

This is true, you are the final quality control.

 

[Darkbloodmon]

It's also possible that you see an ABS problem that has nothing go do with the Job you just did.
These Kelsey-Haines Units where infamous for cold solder problems.

What a coincidence that would be.

I know the ABS modules are commonly problematic on alot of GM products, is this also true for Mopar?

 

[Ozymandias]

Just the KH units that they used from 98 - 05?
Never heard from problems before or after.