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"Ram Air" Intake? What do you think?

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best place to get pyro & boost gauges???

Changing Ring & Pinion, Need Advice

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After all the "normal" upgrades (pump timing/tweaking,14cm2 turbo,PW inj. ,K&N filter)I'm thinking more air in might help also. I"m looking at trying to find a way to get more air to the airbox. The "tunnel" that picks up air below the front body pan is right behind my front bumper. Any body think of a way to get more air into that "tunnel" and on up to the airbox? Think this would help? Any ideas/suggestions!

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93,CC,4X4,LE,Auto/3. 54. Banks intercooler/exhaust,K&N,PW injectors, 14cm2 wastegated turbo, "timed" pump, Walker "flow-thru" muffler,Emerald Grn. w/ SS running board,Grizzly Grill Guard.
 
A non-member in town has a 92 dually, flatdeck 2wd to tow his 5th. Under his bumper I noticed a piece of 3" PVC (like sewer pipe) stickin down, Ram under the bumper to the canister I guess.

J-eh

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Jason Hoffman
Lil' Mack - 89 D250LE 5 Spd 3. 54 LSD Reg Cab. K&N,"tweaked pump", BD Injectors, Banks Pyro/Boost, 3. 5" Exst tail section straight. E&M Custom seats. Bosch H4, PIAA 80W/80W HdLites. 100W Drv,55W Fogs.
237,500 miles (380,000 Kms) 7850 Hrs. Cummins Power Booster member.
The Original Turbo Diesel

Lil' Mack Pics 07-00
 
Billy Kid,
On my 93, I measured the diameter of the inlet of the air filter housing canister and of the outlet going to the turbo. The smaller inlet than outlet silences intake(turbo) noise at the expense of restricting air to your motor. I used a piece of scrap rubber hose that was made to carry exhaust out under a rollup garage door to create another air inlet just above the factory one, picking up air out of the back of the turn signal light housing. Always try to pick up
air from outside the engine compartment! Air from inside the engine compartment is sometimes(depending on exact source) over 100
degrees F hotter than outside air. I usually prefer to cut into the plenum at the
base of the windshield for an air inlet source, but on 1st Gens it is so slick and
easy(I took the canister off of the inner fender & cut the hole with a sawzall) to add
a 6 or 7" piece of 2 1/2" diam. hose that I
couldn/t resist it. You need to cut a 2" slice in the end you put in the back of the TS housing to allow the wires to exit. The TS housing functions as a centrifigal precleaner to keep out big pieces of debris. Any added inlet over 2 1/4" in diameter will remove the restriction. E-mail
me if you have any questions.

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93 Maroon/Gold D350 CC Dually,5sp,LE trim, A/C,Raven cab height w/contractor side windows, PW inj. , K&N in OEM housing w\altered added inlet, class IV receiver hitch, Maroon cloth 60/40 '97 F150 bench seat, KYB shocks,& behind the seat,not yet installed: Moog upper & lower ball joints, PST poly graphite upper & lower control arm bushings and Praise Dyno Brake pads & shoes.
 
Mel Fuelling,
This idea sounds cool, got any pictures for us visual learners #ad
?

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1992 W-350 Club Cab Dually 3. 5" straight pipe(thanks jardine!)
W-350 8' contractors dump with 3. 5"BD exhaust, 16cm^2 housing, DI pyro&boost
Russell
 
R. E. ,
I have a Polaroid and a scanner, but I have no clue how to post a photo, but I will go try the Polaroid and if it turns out, I can probably e-mail it to you as an attachment.

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93 Maroon/Gold D350 CC Dually,5sp,LE trim, A/C,Raven cab height w/contractor side windows, PW inj. , K&N in OEM housing w\altered added inlet, class IV receiver hitch, Maroon cloth 60/40 '97 F150 bench seat, KYB shocks,& behind the seat,not yet installed: Moog upper & lower ball joints, PST poly graphite upper & lower control arm bushings and Praise Dyno Brake pads & shoes.
 
Mel,
I would like to see those photos also. I am losing 4 lbs of boost with my grill cover on. So this might be the answer to my problem as well.
Thanks, Kyle

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1985 DODGE 1 ton Crew Cab(imported from California with no rust) W/8' box converted to 4X4 in 1999. Converted to a non-intercooled 1991 Cummins Turbo diesel & rebuilt 5 speed Getrag in 2001(wife can't drive a stick :). Freshly rebuilt and Balanced Cummins, Rebuilt NP205, Rebuilt Injector pump and tweaked, Matched Injectors, 3" New Mandrel Bent Exhaust,no muffler, Borgeson Steering Shaft, K&N Air Filter, 4:10 gears, limited slip rear end, 16" Goodyear GSA Wranglers, 16K Reese 5th Wheel Hitch,and LE Package and a Sony CD Stereo. Next add-on some “Banks” toys ! If you want to know why I did all of this, 2 kids, one on the way and I can't stand F**d and Ch**y. Kyle Hoover ,Fruitport, MI.
 
If you remove the air filter housing and drill 6 or 8 2" holes in it you will increase the amount of air you can suck through your air filter. I did it and I am happy with the results. Good luck!
Happy Trails!

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1993 250 4X2 - Banks Power Pack, BD Power Injectors, K&N Air Filter, 6 gauges and tweaked pump. 27lbs boost unloaded.
Horton fan & NV4500 5 speed.
 
Hey Mel:
Sounds like your way ahead of me. As everyone else has indicated "photo's" would be great. There's a web site called "Photopoint" or something similar(see Post about 1st Gen Photo's)that supposedly explaines the precess but I've not attempted it yet. Thanks for the info, hoping to see pics!

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93,CC,4X4,LE,Auto/3. 54. Banks intercooler/exhaust,K&N,PW injectors, 14cm2 wastegated turbo, "timed" pump, Walker "flow-thru" muffler,Emerald Grn. w/ SS running board,Grizzly Grill Guard.
 
Billy, you might want to read my post in 2nd generation, 12valve!!!

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Rusty Mule 97 3500 5 Speed C/C 68,000miles 25,000# POP-UP HITCH, CAT GUTTED "MULE HAULER"
 
iam lost, did u drill out the inner fender
for a air hole? to route to air filter box?

bill

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1993 w350 ex cab, banks,nv 4500 in
open exaust, pw Injectors are in. Big rig flaps,tach in,. Its loud and goes ok, for a 93,Ham radio Call KK6dm
has ability to communicate any where in the world. Headliner shelf
5 antenna's
 
You may want to take a look at www.usbody.com look at the ram air II hood under photos then dodge turck it may be around $600 #ad
but if it works??? I think it looks good. #ad


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2001. 5 Black Sport 4x4 Q-cab 6-Speed HO,3. 54 - No Stickers on Tailgate - Towing & Camper Packages - Real Backup Lights - Fog Lights - Phord 4 Door Nurf Bars - Leveling Kit - CB - Electric Brakes - Class 3 Hitch on front
 
That system, if you could duct it to the canister would mimick the Psychotty by getting pressure from the windsheild area while zippin' down the road and would reduce your EGTs the same. The pressure may not be as much as from the heater cowl but, hey better that under the hood. \

J-eh
 
On my old 92, I cut a matching hole in the metal cover above the bumper to get direct air flow to the tube. It was a benfit of lowering egt's by several hundred on gross weight towing of 36,000 lbs. I used a rubber slit material to place around the cut out so as not to look bad but was impressed with the results. Mike

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http://hometown. aol.com/hotshothauler/myhomepage/business.html 2000, Air brakes on truck & trailer. 19,000 miles todate. DOT custom built sleeper unit. pulling a 40' G/N flatbed
2000 FL-70 Pulling a 48' low boy.
 
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DP/MH: What you did sounds like more of what I was thinking about. I'm not sure about the turn signal opening without seeing pictures. Your method is more like what I had thought about. Maybe cover the opening with fine mesh or screen to kept out foriegn(sp) materials. I thought the "air direct into the tunnel" might actually give a "ram air" effect. Is this what your experience showed? More boost with out cranking up pump is what I'm after. See Signature for current mods.

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93,CC,4X4,LE,Auto/3. 54. Banks intercooler/exhaust,K&N,PW injectors, 14cm2 wastegated turbo, "timed" pump, Walker "flow-thru" muffler,Emerald Grn. w/ SS running board,Grizzly Grill Guard.
 
Billy Kid, I never did notice as to boost increase. BUT I did notice few hundred degree drop in egt's when towing. I used a fine screen mesh over the opening as well as the grill. Since you all know, bugs will get into the ac condencer and that reduces condencer effectiveness. I sold the 92 to another hotshoter, but I could get pics at a later date. It was a nice looking cut out but more importantly, did a good job at reducing those pesky egt gremlins #ad
I never did try drilling the airbox full of holes..... I guess I thought under hood temps would relate to hot air getting into the box as well. But I see more and more people going that route..... Mike BTW, I never saw too much difference in boost but only because I really was not looking, More interested in egt's than boost while towing that much weight.

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http://hometown. aol.com/hotshothauler/myhomepage/business.html 2000, Air brakes on truck & trailer. 19,000 miles todate. DOT custom built sleeper unit. pulling a 40' G/N flatbed
2000 FL-70 Pulling a 48' low boy.

[This message has been edited by David Phipps/Mike Hurd (edited 03-15-2001). ]
 
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R. E. M. : I don't know about the others but I'm thinking of cutting rectangular hole like what's in radiator core support(or just below it)and putting in a hose of some type to connect the opening in splash pan to opening on core support. Then the factory Rectangular tube goes to air box. I'd like another rectangular tube like the one mentioned above but I think a flexible tube might be easier. Just haven't come up with the right material yet. Also trying to think of a "neat" way to cut hole so I don't tear up the surrounding paint to bad. Any ideas?

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93,CC,4X4,LE,Auto/3. 54. Banks intercooler/exhaust,Gauges(Pyro/Boost/Tach. ),K&N,"PW" injectors, 14cm2 wastegated turbo, "timed" pump, CUMMINS CHROME engine kit,Walker "flow-thru" muffler,Emerald Grn. w/ SS running board,Grizzly Grill Guard.
 
A neat way to cut that hole is to do it like the body men do. You'll need a drill, diegrinder, air or small hacksaw and a hose. Cut the hole out like fretwork, drill hole that will allow your saw to get in there, but when you cut use water to cool the metal and paint to prevent distortion. Use the diegrinder to clean the edges carefully with water too.

I'd like to find a supplier of those rubber hoses and couplings that manufacturers use on the intercooler/intake/turbo. If we could get one of those catalogs, that would be a nice install. #ad
 
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