Rancho 9000s

[Steven]

I am going to install Rancho 9000s on my 99 2500. I have read the posts and I know there was an article written in issue 31 of TDR. Unfortunatly, I can not get a copy of that issue (before my time with TDR). Can any one give me the abridged verion of the article?

 

[wedodgediesel]

Steven, as printed in Issue 31 of the TDR and written by Steve St. Laurent



RANCHO RS 9000 INSTALLATION



I recently installed a set of RS9000 shocks and an RS5000 steering stabilizer (RS5404) on my '98. 5, 2500, 4x4. I kept notes during the install and put this together to help save time for others.



Let's get with it. The first order of business is to spend five minutes in preparation the night before the installation. Spray some penetrating oil on all the bolts at the top and bottom of the shocks and the stabilizer.



With the dawn of a new day, it is time to assemble the shocks and tackle the installation. Starting with the front shocks, first put the shock on setting #1 and pull it all the way out, then put it on setting #5. Then put the boot on - it just slides right on. Put the boot down on the shock far enough that the drain holes in the second rib are at the top of the shock body. If you just put the boot down until it's tight, water and crud will collect inside the boot and won't drain out. Also, point the drains towards the front and rear so that water will drain when parked on inclines (I park far more often on an incline or decline than leaning to one side). I personally set my shocks so that the adjusting knob was pointing to the rear of the truck on the front. They are a little more difficult to adjust that way, but they are better protected from debris when off-roading and also salt spray during the winter (you make your own choice). Then put the zip tie on and adjust it so that the bulky part of the zip tie will be on the inside where you won't see it. Then put the Rancho sticker on so that it will be facing out (okay, don't put it on - again, your choice).



For the rears it's a little harder to put the boot on. Put some liquid dishwashing detergent on the top eye and around the ring at its base. Then you have to force the boot over it and wipe off the dishwashing detergent. I put the drain holes to the front and rear on these also. Then decide which way you want the shocks to face. I pointed my knobs towards the axle (rearward on the passenger side and forward on the driver's side) as that seemed to be the most protected spot, but again harder to adjust the setting. Then put the sticker on. I recommend the driver's side sticker face the rear and the passenger's side face the front (mine faces to the rear on the passenger side, and you can hardly see it). Then I put two coats of a good carnauba wax on the shock tubes. Once they are installed, you won't get the chance to do it again and it will help keep the finish looking good (again salt concerns = rust).



Now for the actual installation. I recommend starting with the front shocks because they are the hardest. Start with the passenger side and loosen the top nut on the stock shock Oust using a socket and extensions). Then loosen the bottom bolt; the nut is a flag nut so you don't have to worry about a wrench for the back side. Remove the three nuts from the shock tower and pull the shock tower out of the way (just lay it to the side in the engine compartment). Then you have to get the shock out. Some may come easy, others may need to be pried. I used a large flat-blade screwdriver and pried between the lower coils and the shock tube, alternating between front and rear until it released. Just pull the shock out from the top. Now take the bottom bolt and make sure the sleeve will fit (there was only one in mine, and it did fit). Next put some grease inside the bushing and on the outside of the sleeve, put the sleeve into the bushing by hand, and then use a c- clamp to drive it in the rest of the way. Then put a dab of grease inside the sleeve on the side you are going to put the bolt in through (or put some grease on the bolt) and on the sides of the bushing. Put one of the washers on the top of the shock and then one of the red bushings. Put the shock on #1 so it's easier to move and drop the shock into the coil - mine fit in pretty easily. Slide the bottom bolt in, put the flag nut on the back side, and just finger tighten it. Then put the shock tower over the shock and loosely install the three nuts on the shock tower. Then put the other red bushing on the shock shaft, then the other washer, and finger tighten the nut. Tighten the lower bolt to 1 00 ft/lbs. Then tighten the shock tower nuts to 55 ft/lbs. Lastly, tighten the nut on top of the shock - just tighten it down until the bushing sits even with the side of the washer. You also want to center the bushings in the hole in the top of the shock tower; wiggle it around as you tighten it until you drop into it.



Next is the driver's side, basically the same procedure as the passenger's side, except it's a little tighter. There are clips on the hard lines running right by the fuse box that you can undo easily to make it easier to get a socket and extension on the top nut of the shock. After you get the top nut off of the shock, you will need to compress the shock as much as you can. Use zip ties or safety wire to keep it collapsed. Then you can do the rest of the stuff, and the shock will pull right out. Put the shock on #1 and collapse the new shock down (no need for zip ties) and install the same as the passenger's side. If you undid the clips on the hard lines, don't forget to reconnect them.



Next are the rears. If you remove your spare tire, you will have E lot of extra room to work. This makes the job much easier. It's simply a matter of unbolting the old shock and bolting in the new On the passenger's side, you get the top bolt from outside the frame rail with an extension. The top nuts are flag nuts so YOL don't have to worry about getting a wrench on them. On the driver's side, the axle vent is clipped right above the flag nut; just pull it of (it slides right off - no lock) and lay it to the side. Don't forget to reconnect it when you're done. The rear shock bolts should be torqued to 100 ft/lbs.



Lastly, to replace the stabilizer, simply unbolt the old one and bolt in the new one, just like the rear shocks. Put the boot very far down on the body so that when turning the wheel all the way to the right it doesn't pop off of the top of the stabilizer. I put the drain holes pointing up and down and I also cut an extra drain hole in the last rib before the shock body. In my case, only one of the sleeves that came with the shock fit the bolt, so I used the sleeve that wouldn't fit to drive one of the sleeves out of the stock shock with a c-clamp and socket.



I'm running my shocks at #3 front, #1 rear unloaded; and I haven't had a chance to run them loaded yet. The ride of the truck is greatly improved over the stock shocks that had 56,000 miles on them. I hope this makes your installation easy!

Steve St. Laurent

 

[Archive]

wedodgediesel... great effort in posting that info... thats a lot of typing!



Steve St Laurent... nice article.

 

[vinconco]

Where do you get the dang thangs... .

 

[R Adams]

I am installing the same Rancho config this weekend and was logging on tonight to see if I could find Issue 31 online. Clicked right onto this. Looking forward my Ranchos and to more TDR time...



r

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

S Vincent - I bought mine through 4 wheel parts - http://www.4wheelparts.com . You can get them from just about any parts house or online ordering place though.





BTW - if ANY of guys see a post that you want to post quotes or reprints of any of my articles to feel free to email me ( -- email address removed --) and I can post it easily (copy and paste) rather than you having to retype the whole thing. Sometimes I miss posts or don't get to them before others - just trying to save you guys some time!

 

[Diesel Dan]

To all that need rancho 9000's



I have a pair of rears for sale that have 20k miles on them and are in perfect condition. I had to replace them with longer ones as i put longer travel rear springs on my truck. $50 ea. plus 1/2 shipping. E-mail me with interest first person with $ gets them



Thanks



DD

 

[nps]

Go here:



http://www.central4wd.com/store/brandlist.asp?ID=169



69. 88 ea.



Neil

 

[wedodgediesel]

just so nobody thinks I'm nuts or wacked in the head, I scanned in the article then cut and paste here.

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

wedodgediesel - WOW!! That's a great OCR program then, which one did you use? I haven't found one yet that had the accuracy of the one you used - or did you go through it and correct stuff on your own? In my experience the best you can expect is ~90% accuracy and then you run it through a spell checker and get up to 95% or so accuracy.



-Steve

 

[mike65]

4wheelparts price for 4 rancho 9000 shocks is $262. 83 . This discount code 10XFTB218 is good for 10% off and free shipping it expires 8-21-01. I have not tried it yet.



Internet orders only





mike

 

[swamp rat]

OUCH! That hurts so good!



Mike, I can definitely confirm the discount code works.



I just ordered 4 RS9000's, the onboard controller, and a steering stabilizer for a total cost of $403 and change.



Thank you much for sharing that code. Saved me enough to get the stabilizer for free and then some.



I was gonna get my gauges first but I just couldn't resist the price. Oh well, back to the salt mines tonight to pay for the shocks.

 

[wedodgediesel]

Steve, the OCR program is HP's Precision Scan software. Yes, I had to clean it up some but only took no more than 1 minutes. Anything I find of great use gets scaned in in case I lose the magazine it was in.

 

[RBerry]

Mike

Thanks for the link to 4wheelparts. I had been looking for a place to get the rancho 9000 shocks. I orderd all 4, The discount code worked for me too. I had to pay tax though, Guess it's because I live in Calif

 

[R Adams]

I got the 4 9000s installed ok but the steering stabilizer is fighting me. I have a 95 Dodge 2500 4x4. I got the back nut off ok but am having trouble getting the stock stabilizer out. I know I am not the first down this path so: Is that threaded in and I need to unscrew it or can I pound it out of there? I tried a bit of both but stopped to see if anyone out here has an idea...





BTW: I bought the 9000s at www.hotrod-offroad.com. $59. 99 each.





Thanks!



r