2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rancho RS9000 installation tip

[jlccc]

Installed my Ranchos this week and thought the following might help others.



REARS:

Very straightforward installation. Only complication was that I had to unfasten one of the sway bar connections and push it down with my foot to get the lower shock bolt out. If the bolt had been put in from the opposite side it wouldn't have been necessary. No big deal though.



FRONTS:

Passenger side is a piece of cake but be sure you don't pinch any wires between the shock tower mount and the frame. I was doing mine in the dark and I pinched my block heater cord. I'll have to cut it apart to check for damage and then tape it up with electrical tape if it's OK.



Be sure to FULLY tighten the lower shock mount bolts or you will get "clunking" as the shocks move within their mounts.



Drivers side is a slight challenge but two tips will make it easier:



1. Use a piece of baling wire to "tie" the shock together so it doesn't extend when you remove the shock tower mount.



2. No need for the shock tower itself to be pulled from the engine compartment. Unless you disconnect the air intake piping I don't think the mount will come out very easily. Just disconnect the top of the shock from the mount and pull only the shock out. The only downside is that the top nut is harder to tighten inside the engine compartment than if the whole assembly was outside the engine compartment. I guess it's a tradeoff. I didn't want to play with the intake piping...



GENERAL:

With the OEM shocks you tighten the top nut all the way down until it bottoms out. With the Ranchos you only tighten the nut down until the bushing swells (due to compression) to the same O. D. (or slightly larger) as the compression washers.

 

[dresslered]

Thanks for the tips. My Ranchos and incab controller just arrived and are sitting in the living room waiting for me.

 

[jeepit]

Get em on! You are going to love being able to dial in ride. I have them on my jeep and they work great. I broke one of the dials off with my tire while flexing my suspension off road. Got a replacement dial in 3 days and will put it back on tomorrow. Spoke with parts guy at bumper to bumper and he got the bilsteins and hates them.

 

[JR2]

I just did Bilsteins all the way around and your advice is correct. The drivers side front is a mother. Just one comment- If you can't get bailing wire around the front drivers side try jacking up that side of the truck using the frame. That is how I did my Dads a couple of days later and it worked well. The only other problem I had was getting the bottom of the shock lined up with the holes. I finally ground down the metal bushing a tad and it made it easier.



My Dad loves his bilstein fronts and Ranch 9000 backs and I like the Bilsteins all the way around.

 

[Royk]

I put 9000's on my rear last week (easy!) but haven't had time for the fronts yet. To me the lower passenger side looked like it will be a PITA due to the steering linkage in front of the lower shock bolt. Didn't look like I could get my wrench in there. Is it easier than it looks?



-Roy

 

[jsnyder]

If I recall correctly, I used a ratchet with a 6" extension and was able to get between the track bar to undo the passenger side. It really isn't that difficult. The first time was slow, 7 months later when I replaced the Heckethorns and went to Bilsteins it was quite easy.



Jason



p. s. Drop the spare tire and you have more room on the rear. Also, you can get the fronts in without jacking up the truck. Last install took me about an hour. Torque the hell out of the front bottom mount bolts.