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Rancho Shocks

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I have seen some post on Rancho 9000 shocks so I went to my parts store to get some prices and they told me I need the 5000 series for my ram. Just wondering if there is a differnce or it is just a new series out for the ram.

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99,4x4,slt,3500,5spd,
black,hoswel bale bed,
blue box,Pac-Brake,sraightpipe,
K&N,silencer ring removed,5 star aluminum wheels,brushguard,
blackouts,eclipse stereo,
matrix blue headlight bulbs,blazer blue neon fog lights,

-- email address removed --
 
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Phil, the parts store tried to tell me the same thing. What I didn't see on any of the forums is a reference to the 5000 series. I did look the 5000's up on the web and still decided to go with the 9000. They have done a good job so far...

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1997 3500 SLT, Ext cab, 5spd, TST #11, GV Aux Trans, BD exhaust, Kelderman Air Ride, 60 Gallon fuel tank, Clifford Security, Reese 20k 4way 5th wheel hitch, Boost/EGT gauges, K&N air filter, Rancho RS9000 shocks, Brush Guard, DZee full length running boards.
 
Rancho RS9000's are five way adjustable and normally about 65. 00 each. RS5000's are not adjustable (approximate number three setting/midrange on the 9000's) and about 35. 00 each; this information came directly from Rancho.

4WheelParts has the buy three get one free sale right now; I paid 215. 00 for my set which I put on last night. Fronts are on three and rears are on two and the ride is very good. Well worth the money IMHO.

243

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1999 QC 2500 ST 4X4 24V 5spd 3. 54 LSD 235/85/16 Dunlop Mud Rovers RS9000's
Husky Liners, Hella 500 Driving Lights, VDO Boost and Pyrometer
 
Most of you guys have them set on three so why not just buy the 5000 and save $30. Even if you set it at 2 or 4 it can't make that much difference than 3.

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99,4x4,slt,3500,5spd,
black,hoswel bale bed,
blue box,Pac-Brake,sraightpipe,
K&N,silencer ring removed,5 star aluminum wheels,brushguard,
blackouts,eclipse stereo,
matrix blue headlight bulbs,blazer blue neon fog lights,

-- email address removed --
 
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Oh Phil, Phil, Phil,
This is not so!!!!
It makes a huge difference. I have the in cab adjusters and play with them all the time.
On a good paved windy road or a good 75+ mph Interstate, I run 'em up to 4 or so and enjoy the road hugging ability. The truck is like a sports car (like I would know what a sports car feels like).
On a dirt washboard I run 'em down and can have a slow smooth ride (wich mama likes).
When Four wheeling in the ruff stuff, I run 'em up and it doesn't bottom out.
Pulling my trailer I run the rear up a bit more depending on the situation.
This stuff is a pain to install but the product and results are very very nice. #ad

Good Luck with what ever you go with,
Ron

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'99 Quad long bed, emerald green/stainless rocker panels, 4x4, 5speed, 3. 55 limslip, Rancho 9000/remote adjuster, DD stage IIs and a bunch of othe stuff
Boulder City, Nevada
 
Sorry for the comment, just the way it looked to me you guys were spending money on something you always leave the same. I guess I should look into it more before I make a call on it. Thanks for all the info, I just don't see spending that much $ on shocks but everyone says it's worth the money. I guess I will have to break down and buy some.

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99,4x4,slt,3500,5spd,
black,hoswel bale bed,
blue box,Pac-Brake,sraightpipe,
K&N,silencer ring removed,5 star aluminum wheels,brushguard,
blackouts,eclipse stereo,
matrix blue headlight bulbs,blazer blue neon fog lights,

-- email address removed --
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Phil,
I have 9000s on my 96 4X4 and my wife has 5000s on her 95 2WD. Both work well. On my truck I am constantly varying the load so the 9000s are the way to go. On my wife's truck, it always carries the same weight, a camper shell with occasional light loads inside. On hers the 5000s work very well and we have to travel on a rough dirt road to get to our ranch.
Bottom line, IMHO, is if you don't vary the load you could get by with the 5000s because there is no need for the adjustment. If you run empty part of the time and tow a trailer or load up the bed a lot, you would be much better off with the 9000s.
Good luck which ever way you go.

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96 2500 4X4 5sp 4:10 215hp SLT Horton fan,TST plate,AFC spring kit, advanced timing,4"exhaust,GearVendors,BFG 285/75/16 on Mickey Thompson Challenger wheels, K&N, Detroit Locker,50#Boost and Pyro guages, Aluminim flatbed, gooseneck and bp hitches,Helwig air bags with compressor, Helwig sway bar, Rancho 2" front lift w/9000 shocks all around, Preluber w/aircraft hoses,Hytec rear cover,PacBrake,McCleod dual disc clutch,numerous other accessories. Pull 11,000lb aluminum gooseneck horse trlr. and 14,000lb equipment trlr.
 
Phil,
I'm sure you would be happy with the 5000's, The 9000's are just one more gadget to play with that make the truck even more fun to drive. If I didn't have the in cab adjusters I would probably leave them set at 2 in the rear and 1 in the front. I would only change if I was going off roading or pulling the trailer. Then maybe 3 or 4 on the rear and 2 or 3 on the front... ... .
Just more "fun stuff",
Ron
 
Phil:
I have the RS 9000's on my 91 4X4 and they have made a real difference in the ride. I played with all combinations of settings front and rear to find the best ride. I use setting 3 on the front and 1 in the rear. Made quite a difference. I think they are worth it. I bought mine a year ago at 4wheelparts. Buy 4 get 1 free was best price at the time.

Jerry

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91 W250 4X4 LE, ARE Campershell, stainless running boards, Grill guard, K&N, A/R Nitro 16X8 wheels, Bridgeston Deuelers, Air Bags
 
I had the 5000's on my 95 V-10. I won't make that mistake again! #ad
They are way too stiff for me. They worked better than the stock shocks with the 5th wheel on back, but they were just too stiff for solo use. I haven't done it yet, but I'll do the 9000's. I was going to do the IAS's but feedback on them is that they are too stiff also.

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Money Sink - 96, 5 speed, SLT, 4X4, LWB, Ext Cab, ISSPRO pillar, TST 280/685 all the way forward, Delvac 1 & Amsiol, Injectors, K&N, Monicas silencer ring removed, Exhaust brake, 4" CAT back & CATless, 4" chrome turn down straight out back, Mag-Hytec, 3:54, 235s, Spray in bed liner, Super5th side to side tilting 24k#, Brush Guard, Stainless rear window louvers & lite bar, Diamond plate tool box & bed caps, Dodge running boards, Sheepskin.
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys on the shocks. I guess I will have to take a little money out of the BOMB fund and ad some shocks.

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99,4x4,slt,3500,5spd,
black,hoswel bale bed,
blue box,Pac-Brake,sraightpipe,
K&N,silencer ring removed,5 star aluminum wheels,brushguard,
blackouts,eclipse stereo,
matrix blue headlight bulbs,blazer blue neon fog lights,

-- email address removed --
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I've been using the Rancho RS 9000 shocks on the front of my truck for the past 15k miles. They really improved the ride and feedback a great deal. yesterday I picked up some for the rear as well along with a RS 5000 stablizer for the front end (I bent the OEM part by driving over snow piles)

For those of you who have the in cab adjuster for the RS9000s, how does it work. Is it an electronic thing or a cable that you turn or pull to change the setting? Also,
how have you mounted it in the cab and does it look nice or should you hide it under the dash?

Mike
Annapolis, MD


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1999 2500 4x4 SLT QC Cummins ISB, 4" exhaust from turbo back, 5" chrome tip, TST re-flashed ECM, 275 hp. injectors ,NV 4500,
heavy duty transfer case,towing package, travel group ,Pricol boost and EGT gauges mounted on the piller
White/driftwood lower, camel interior, 12 DISK! cd changer mounted under the seat.
 
Mike B,
The adjusters work with a small air compressor. The manual adjuster is a cam that pushes on a plunger to set the rate. It is removed and air is applied to the plunger. You get two gauges on a mount, an air bleed valve for the front and one for the rear. To add air you push the compressor button and then bleed down to the required setting. It all works very well but you have to run a bunch of air lines to get it set up.
Ron
 
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