Archived Rapidly clicking starter, no engagement

[diesel974x4]

I have a 2007 3/4 ton 4x4 5. 9 with a SMARTY JR. and G-56. I bought it in december with 134,000 miles and Now have 144,000. Everything on the truck looked stock and untouched besides a plastic "key" that disables the ignition of the truck that is near the OBD II. I added L. E. D. clearance lights that worked fine for a couple of days. The shop installed them on the instrument cluster dimmer switch. I had been driving on bumpy road quite a while when they went out. I pulled over to a rest area and flipped the switch a couple times. The dash and radio lights blinked about 5 times. Shut off the truck, used the restroom, came back and everything worked fine for several more days. Then, ramdomly it went out again. Ended up flipping the switch a few times while driving and it returned to normal. Didn't have anymore problems, but returned it to the shop that installed lights and he said "he'd never had that problem" and wired them to the drivers side parking light. Worked great a couple days, then they would go out again and take all the running lights with 'em. Shut it off, then it worked fine for 2 months. Got a SMARTY JR along the way and didn't have any issues with that. Woke up 2 days ago for a trip from Pueblo, CO- Bozeman, MT for work, and running lights were out. I tried doing all the tricks I had done before for 5 min, but had to get going and it was dark out, so I had cut the clearance light wire. Ran fine, no problems other than no clearance lights until last night. I went out to the truck (after starting it a few hours earlier) and all I got was clicking noise from the drivers side under the hood and the solenoid was pulsing. That continued till I turned the key off. It sounds like the batteries are dead, but they were installed new in Dec. Please help. I'll be in and out today. I've heard about issues with the "TIPM". Does this sound like one? I will try disconnecting the batteries for a while.

 

[GAmes]

I think you have a couple issues. The clicking starter problem sounds like the battery clamps are not clean/tight or the starter contacts need replaced.

 

[diesel974x4]

GAmes- I'm going to try and look at it here soon. Thank you for the quick reply and thank you for your service.

 

[diesel974x4]

Update: I disconnected the batteries for 40 min. After reconnecting, the truck was going through the normal start procedure till I hit the Start position on the key. Seems to be low/ dead batteries. I left them disconnected for the time being till I can get a volt meter. Wish I'd had a load tester too. The batteries are interstate and looked new when I got the truck and the auto dealer told me they where replaced after they got the truck from an auction. Not a fan of interstates though, and it just seemed REALLY weird when I've had NO issue with them since i've had it, then suddenly after changing nothing, I do. Ideas, suggestions? Thank you in advance.

 

[crabman]

Eliminate Batteries First

The new computer controlled trucks are very sensitive to battery voltage &/or grounds. Loose grounds can cause a vast amount of very weird problems. Just because the dealer said that the batteries were replaced doesn't mean that they were replaced or if they were, maybe one of them is defective. Unfortunately now days, new doesn't always mean it works correctly.

Have the batteries load checked and make sure that they both are fully charged.

Throughly clean battery posts & cable clamps, remove battery ground cables, clean & reinstall tight.

If both batteries are good, cable clamps & grounds are clean and tight then you know for sure that they aren't the problem.

 

[diesel974x4]

Thank you crabman. I just got a chance to re connect them and do a voltage test. Same thing is still happening. I now plan on removing them and getting them tested. Thank you.

 

[diesel974x4]

Batteries. Both of them shot. Got new ones and tossed a couple codes that I used the SMARTY JR to decipher. P2509- Powerdown data lost error, and P0483- Fan Speed. Not sure what they mean, ideas? I cleared them out and runs like a champ now.

 

[wcjp]

You mentioned a plastic key? Is this the type of security key when pulled it disables the truck? I had one of those on a previous vehicle. I had not pulled the key in four months. One day it started to smoke. I had to pull the battery cables. It was completely melted. The contacts on the plastic card were not making full contact. I pulled the whole thing off.

Now that your lead acid batteries were discharged to zero they are toast regardless of age. Hopefully you didn't fry the TIPM.

 

[diesel974x4]

Yeah, that is the kind of key. I've never seen one before. Hope that don't happen to me! Everything seems to be operating fine now. Haven't driven it much lately though, only started and ran it a few times today over short distances. I do not plan on re-connecting the clearance lights till I find a system to help isolate the TIPM. Suggestions anybody?

 

[wcjp]

Motorhead stopped making the tipm saver.

 

[diesel974x4]

I had seen that. Didn't know what the TIPM saver was when he made 'em. Sure do now. Any alternatives?

 

[wcjp]

Build your own Saver. When I find the connectors for plug and play I'll build mine. I was going to buy Motorheads to save time. I did something similar on my Jeep with the wiring harness from a Chrysler Minivan.

 

[DieselLady]

I always use a power solenoid to run all my aftermarket parts off of. It has a fuse strip that has individual fuses, powered through a big solenoid that is activated by a small wire from switched power. I even have my air horn on it, so none of my stuff is getting power through the TIPM. Should be easy to get from any parts store.
Here is an example of the solenoid
http://www.amazon.com/White-Rodgers-124-117111-Solenoid-Continuous/dp/B003JIZD8E

And here is a fuse block.
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...tent_goobasecontent_filler&cID=SHOPPING_84987

You can find a nice spot on the fire wall and place them next to each other. Give you lots of switched power for different aftermarket items. ")