Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) RASP by KO Engineering

[jcbrown]

Mounting...

Cannot be installed on my truck. Other accessories preclude it's installation. No room with VMAC underhood air compressor and Horton electromagnetic fan clutch.

 

[Double J]

Does anyone have any pics of the RASP actually installed? I've seen plenty pics of them sitting on a table just posing. I'm getting desperately close to ordering one but I'd like to get some more ideas of what this set-up looks like. I was leaning towards the FASS for a little while but I really don't need the headache of another electrical pump not to mention mounting the monster. I've went through a stock LP and currently pressures are dropping fast on the Holley Blue after only four months... . dropped down to 2 psi leaving for work this morning #@$%! It could be the weather but so what, I need reliability.

 

[snowracer69]

Don't think mounting a RASP is an easy job... well, ok, mounting it IS an easy job... hard job is cutting/fitting lines, and making everything work together. . ugh... spent 9 hours straight working on mine.



No pics yet, but here are pics that Bill K. sent me of one of the installs he did on a truck. Mine is kinda/not really like this, but almost. I did however use stainless/braided for everything.



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I'll have better pics one of these days, but I'm waiting on a digital camera... .

 

[snowracer69]

oh, and to add to this:



Ok, I've now had my RASP installed for 5 days. It's been running correctly (FP wise) since Saturday. When I got down to Fred's in Phx on Saturday he told me Bill had called him and wanted HIM to look at my bypass valve (apparently I'm a dumbass and don't know what I'm talking about ). So Fred took it apart while on the phone with Bill and sure as #### there wasn't anything in it (golly, I'd told him that 4 times). Soooo, Fred measured the spring and we tried a much heavier one... bad idea. As my FP gage was shooting past 18 psi heading for 20 I shut her down. So we tried one in-between... BINGO!



Now I have 14. 5 psi at idle, accel, normal cruise, and anywhere in-between. At fast cruise (85-90 mph, about 2150-2200 rpms) the FP sits right on the 15 mark. Under heavy throttle w/ box on 5x5 and the M3's pulling for all their worth I'm getting about 12 psi. Bill said that with the big injectors that is to be expected.



In conclusion, I couldn't be happier with this system after I got it all installed and setup correctly. It's just nice to look over and see 14-15 psi where I used to see 10 in cruise and :gasp: 0 at wot (poor, poor VP-44 ). Fred checked out my system, and after I'd explained how it worked in conjunction with and parallel to the stock system he was very impressed.



I'm still going to change a couple things with respect to my line routings, but it's setup nice now. next time my buddy w/ the digital cam is around I'll snap some pics.



Josh



forgot to add, I'm not saying anything bad about Bill in that first paragraph. . he always flings me crap about my pickup and telling me to just send him cash... I know he just wanted Fred to check out the valve and to use some springs that he knew Fred would have.



The absolute only things that can go wrong with this sytem:



1. Blow a belt

solution: turn on override switch, drive to Napa, buy new belt.



2. Hobbs switch fails

soln: turn on override switch to prime, start pickup, turn off override switch, drive w/ normal FP. Call Bill, complain, get new hobbs switch.



3. Bypass spring gets weak (probably will never happen)

soln: call Bill, complain, get new spring. Pump will still work fine.



I don't ever see the pump itself failing. For one, there is nothing there to fail! If you haven't seen this pump, you may think it is a big and bulky piece (as I did). That's anything but the case... it's smaller than your fist! Theres no seals in it to go bad, no wear parts inside, etc.





Oh, and finally, my install "appears" much cleaner than Bills... everything is "hidden" back behind the LP and you don't see it unless you look specifically for it. Ran her HARD last night on 5x5 and could only pull it down to 10 psi and then it jumped back up to 12 when my RPM's got back up... this is to be expected w/ the bigger injectors, and 10 reliable psi at WOT is better than the 0 I used to have. Also, under normal driving it never drops below 14 or goes over 14. 5... solid and steady!



Josh

 

[Double J]

Thanks Snow. It definately looks a little challenging and alot of work for the lines. I think I like that though

 

[snowracer69]

not a lot of work, just time consuming



Here's a tip: Don't cut the return fuel line... make sure you're cutting the supply line to the VP-44. Please, learn from my mistakes...



Another tip: Buy extra hose! 10' just barely cuts it (like, one more inch would have helped A LOT!).



If you want a better list of fittings than what DTT has on their site, let me know... that hasn't been updated in a while...

 

[Double J]

If you want a better list of fittings than what DTT has on their site, let me know... that hasn't been updated in a while...

Sure! I already have the Max Flow Kit from Wildcat so I'm hoping to use what I can from that. I don't necessarily need to run braided line throughout the set-up so I figure I can save a few bucks there.



Is your LP in the stock location?

 

[Double J]

Just more justification to not go electric

 

[JR2]

DoubleJ - But the RASP and I will help you with the install. That way when I get one I will have done it once



No really if you get a RASP let me know, I would really like to help install one to see how it works. I will be getting one this winter some time. Trying to save $$ for that and a Catcher ECM.



JR2

 

[Double J]

No problem, hopefully within the next couple of weeks.

 

[OPoole]

I have 3 in stock any body NEED one? and all pumping needed.

 

[Double J]

I have 3 in stock any body NEED one? and all pumping needed.

OPoole, you have mail..... and a PM.

 

[OPoole]

RASP pumping

Here is my pumping kit with -6an push-lock hose for trucks with pump back at the tank. . working on kit with stock lift pump.

 

[zachv]

I have 3 in stock any body NEED one? and all pumping needed.

Shoot me a PM or e-mail to -- email address removed --. I have a stock VP-44 that is dying and the LP the dealer installed in May is going already...

 

[0013]

me too please poole...

 

[OPoole]

Sorry i will get with back you. . waiting on feed back from Double J. . he will have the kit thursday. .

 

[chef]

o'poole, please hit me up with some info when you get everything checked/figured. very interested in something different then the other two electrical options, and a stock backup is just what i want, just don't have the know-how to figure it out myself.

 

[Double J]

It's in! I'll try to post a few pics and details later tonight or tomorrow..... I been without my baby for 2 1/2 weeks, I'm going for a ride! Oo.

 

[JWine]

So how much long term testing has been done with this setup? I drive 60 to 100k a year, and am very interested.

 

[Double J]

First of all I’ve got to give a big THANKS to my man OPoole . The truck specific kit (Quad Cab, SB) he put together for me was top notch. I really didn’t expect the plumbing to be fully assembled when it finally arrived, but it was and that was a huge weight off my shoulders. The main assembly which contained a couple of T’s, pressure relief valve and the line going back to the tank, check valve and the line going back to the Holley, a 90 degree elbow from the RASP outlet and Hobbs switch was all assembled. All I had to do was screw that main assembly unit into the filter inlet and connect the hoses to the two pumps…. . all hose ends that were not all ready pre-assembled were labeled. Having a well thought out truck specific plumbing kit with consideration of LP location really sealed the deal.



I moved my dieing Holley back on the frame rail, which was the biggest time consumer…. not a lot of room back there. I may need to replace it sooner than later so I thought I’d make it more accessible for when the time comes. I had to fab up a bracket to line up with some of the existing holes in the frame rail since getting a drill up in there was not an option. The connection points for the bracket I used was the top rear cross member bolt and the fuel line clamp bolt that’s directly in front of the fuel tank…. I left the clamp on, just slide it back towards the tank to get it out of the way so it could still serve it’s purpose.



The next little hold up I had was cutting the stock fuel hard line just in front of the tank. Again, not a lot of room and the tube cutter I had was too big to go completely around. Not wanting to drop the tank, out comes the hacksaw and the diesel bath. I couldn’t get the vacuum completely off the line but with the gas cap off it slowed the flow down considerably to a small steady stream.



After a couple of primes it fired right up and I checked for leaks…. one small one at the Hobbs. Now for the good stuff:



At idle - 10. 6 psi

Cruise @ 70 MPH- 11. 4 psi

WFO - 12. 6 psi



I’d like to see a couple more PSI in each of these areas so a spring change in the relief valve may need to happen but at least pressures are going up for a change and not dropping like a rock.



To sum it all up, I’m happy someone stepped up and put a kit together for us folks that don’t have a lot of time or resources to piece everything together wondering if you got enough line, right connections, etc.



BTW... posted a few pics in the gallery.