Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) RASP by KO Engineering

[SConklin]

Any idea how the system would work with a FASS already installed? Could you set it up in series, so that the FASS filters could still be used (if something happened to either system, could one pump push/pull through the other one?)

Skyler

 

[snowracer69]

wow... now THAT would be an expensive fuel system. A RASP backed by a FASS backed by the stock LP. Wowsa!



IMHO, you only need the RASP. It's not going to do any failing anytime soon. As stated before, there is nothing that can fail. Take your FASS off, sell it, and recoup some of your cost and put that money towards a RASP.

 

[Double J]

Take your FASS off, sell it, and recoup some of your cost and put that money towards a RASP.

My thoughts exactly.

 

[OPoole]

SELL it buy a RASP!! thanks for your input Double J we will get you 14psi!!

 

[Double J]

thanks for your input Double J we will get you 14psi!!

No problem... are we going to try a different spring? I double checked all the connections for leaks one more time and it looks like everything is tight. I drove around most of the day today and I still think it's pretty cool to watch your pressures go up with more RPM.

 

[OPoole]

Spring is on the way!! thanks for input looking to hear back you.

 

[DTangstrom]

I have been trying to read the info off the koengineering website for some time now. Has anybody else had problems. Everytime I go to click on one of the fists on the left margin, I get a message about errors in writing scrips, or something to that effect. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

 

[rbattelle]

It seems like the RASP is meant to be plumbed in series with an electric pump mounted closer to the tank. Is this true? Can you run a RASP alone... I mean, will it suck fuel 10 ft up from the stock fuel tank?



-Ryan

 

[Double J]

It seems like the RASP is meant to be plumbed in series with an electric pump mounted closer to the tank. Is this true?

-Ryan

It's ran in parallel with your electrical pump. The e-pump is only used to prime the system after a filter change and will also activate via a Hobbs switch if the RASP's belt was to ever break and pressure dropped below 8psi... ... keep on truckin.



If you didn't have the e-pump plumbed in you'd have no fail-safe.

 

[paulb]

It seems like the RASP is meant to be plumbed in series with an electric pump mounted closer to the tank. Is this true? Can you run a RASP alone... I mean, will it suck fuel 10 ft up from the stock fuel tank?



-Ryan

The RASP system is meant to be plumbed in parallel with the stock lift pump. The stock lift pump only comes on when fuel pressure is below 8 psi (when starting, priming the fuel filter after a filter change, etc). Can you run the RASP alone? I did for the first 1,500 miles I had mine. I didn't have a fitting for the hobbs switch at the time, and I wanted to make a trip. If you don't have a fuel pump plugged into the wiring harness, you might set a fuel pump code. Personally I being able to "prime" the fuel filter housing after a filter change is worth having the stock lift pump in parallel. As little as the stock lift pump runs (couple of seconds at the most when you start it), it will probably last for a long time.



Because of where the RASP mounts it doesn't have to "suck" fuel up. In fact if you take the supply line off the RASP pump, when you have more then a 1/4 tank, be prepared to take a diesel bath. Don't ask how I know...



Paul