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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Rasp

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Throttle Position Question

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How do you guys that have a RASP fuel pump like it. I've done some shopping around and i think this is the way to go. Any problems with the system? Where is the best place to get one?
 
I looked at all the options before I purchased. I was within an inch of ordering an AIRDOG but just really liked the idea of a mechanical pump. Just nothing to go wrong with it except a belt in this case that can be changed out in a matter of a couple minutes with one wrench. So thats the route I went.



I could not be happier with it. My pressure is great. 12-13 at idle and 14 at cruise. It has never dipped below 11 at wot and then climbs right back up. It is strange seeing your pressure go up instead of down. The install was pretty straightforward and not that hard. Took me several hours to do it but having done one now I think the time could be cut in half. I am somewhat lazy at times so I ordered a complete plumbing kit as well so that I did not have to shop around for all the fittings etc since I wasnt sure exactly what all it would take.



As far as I know the only places that sell it are DTT www.dieseltrans.com and Olee Poole at www.powerbypoole.com They both offer plumbing kits or just the pump and you can source your own plumbing.
 
When ou get the RASP pump without the plumbing do you get the check valves and pressue cutout for the lp? and just not the lines, or only the pump and mounting?



Thanks,



Bob Weis
 
You get the pump, brackets, belt,pulleys, pressure relief valve,a couple of fittings for the pump, check valve, hobbs switch, and toggle switch.



Paul
 
RASP it and you can really forget about fuel delivery problems. The rest of the alternatives still use an electric pump, just like the infamous lift pump, and... ..... well, you know the rest of the story.
 
When I get this thing home, I am going to do the RASP. I can do the actual wiring the plumbing, but need the check valves, lp pressure sensor, pressure relief valve etc.



Olliie I got the KSB1B downpipe from you and will get with you to do the RASP. Just depends if I have to pay for the VP repair or not $1200 for the pump and $??? for the labor.



Just so many "beans to go around", lol



Bob Weis
 
So... . What does a RASP cost???? Out the door with everything included you will need to install it?

That means all the lines, everything...

-R. J.

I want one.
 
I have the RASP from power by poole and love it. My truck is a 01 with twins and Mach 5's. . It always has 16 lbs of fuel presser, and a back up system. If you do is, get the big line kit too!
 
Rweis no problem let me know if i can help. Doing the wiring is not bad i have a harness that really makes a install quick and easy. R-N-R thanks for the link!!
 
I bought Poole's kit... has everything you need and even comes partially assembled (at least mine was... ) with hoses and eliminates banjo bolts. Took me about six hours (including lunch and a beer or two) to install it and it works PERFECT!!! I highly recomend it.



Mike
 
Well,



Dealer put the camshaft sensor on and said "fixed". I said "let's go for a drive". After about 20 minutes (the VP to get up to operating temperature) guess what?, yep dead pedal again 0216. Imagine that!



Back to dealer. I monitor just about every fluid imagineable. We (mechanic and I) started tracing every line to insure it was not a computer box, not connected to the VP-44, checked the pump wire that it was not pierced, that the "void" stickers were still on the VP, checked out the entire fuel system.



The pump has to come from DC in Minnesota (3 days), 1 day to get into the VP-44, change it, 1 day to get out and button everything up.



The mechanic and I spent just about the entire day discussing the VP-44. The RASP or equivalent electric pump is all but mandatory. I am going to put a RASP on mine because as the engine rpm's rise the pumps ability rises. We talked about having 14psi, 12 psi, 10psi, 8psi, less psi. This mechanic was very firm about never less than 14 psi, ie all the fuel the VP can possibly digest available at all times everytime is the only way to keep the VP from overheating or "0216"'ing.



Basically the VP-44 HAS TO ABSOLUTELY have available all the fuel it can possibly take. With this in mind I have REMOVED the Mallory 4307M so there are NO restrictions of any kind anywhere in the fuel system. I will deal with the carter lp until I get home and call Ollie Poole for the RASP.



I know the miles of threads of how much fuel is enough for the VP, the thread about the amount of cooling fuel returned, etc. For me and my CTD my focus is going to be "all the fuel the VP can possibly digest available at all times everytime". Therefore the carter has to go (except in conjunction with the RASP) because of the internal check valve and it's propensity to fail (and therefore the bypass regulator (which could be a restriction)).



I ESPECIALLY want to thank the couple of guys I needed to call through the TRAVEL COMPANION. They helped me with which codes meant what. Rip Rook in his help in what I should expect once 0216 codes were being generating. Scheid Diesel in Lafayette IN puting a VP on hold for me until I found out if the dealer was or was not going to change the VP (thanks Dawn).



BTW Scheid Diesel knows EXACTELY what is up with CTD's and has the expertise to FIX IT. I would use Schied Diesel in a heartbeat except I would pay for the VP and labor instead of the dealer pay for the VP and labor. Scheid Diesel has worked with me for 3 days of the dealer figuering out it really is the VP-44. If the dealer today said "no we are not, or we do not want to change it" then it would have been at Scheid Diesel in the morning. Thanks again to Scheid Diesel.



So I spend an extra week with grandkids, not the worst thing in the world :D .



THANKS for all the replys in this thread and the ideas. When you are 1100 miles from home ideas are good things!



Thanks again,



Bob Weis
 
Ok, I am on the road for 2 more weeks. I will get a RASP from "Power By Poole" when I get home. However while I am out here I would like to start planning the install.



What thread fittings are on the pump in and out?

What thread fittings are on the check valve ends?

The Hobbs switch is probably 1/4 NPT?

Can AN-6 handle the line size adequately? (350 hp)



Thanks, just planning ahead for the install.



Bob Weis



Has anyone with a RASP had to replace the VP-44 say more than 1 or 2 years later?



I thought I had the answer to the VP-44, but my truck is having a VP-44 replaced as I write this, so I did not have the answer. Apparently my steady 12 psi from a OEM lp was not enough (cooling?) flow to keep the electronics of the VP from failing. I think the RASP will push more volume consistently at 14 psi and increases its ability to pump with rpm rather than have to catch up with high demands as many electric pumps do (that is a whole different discussion for another time). Shutting down the OEM lp after engine start is a plus so you do not have to deal with the "flippen" check valve in the OEM lp.



I hope this is the last VP-44 I have to replace "on the road". At least Idid miss the hurricane (I'm from central FL).
 
I am not knocking rasp, granted it sounds great , but why not swap out the cam with one that has lobe and use a factory sytle mechanical pump. I looked at the price of the Rasp system, I would think for the same money you could do the swap.



Gary
 
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