Rattle after intalling new shocks

[Roger Ledbetter]

I replaced my stock shocks with Rancho 9000's I am happy with them except I notice a rattle when I go over very small bumps in the road, even cracks. I have torqued these guys down and cannot feel any play. I even notice more wheel hop when I accelerate very hard. Has anyone else had this happen of know what I should look for?
Thanks, RogerLed

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'98 12V 3500 Dually Std Cab, Auto, 3. 54, Banks Stinger Plus, Sun Coast TC. BD valve body, BD Pressureloc

 

[trucknut]

FOR FRONT SHOCKS
I've 2 rams one 9812ver and a 2001. 5 both with the rancho 9000's. (Diesels)
My 98 had a rattle knock in it which came from the shocks. I found 2 problems causing these rattle knocks.
1
The nut on top of the shock did not tighten down properly. For what ever reason the shock stem seemed to run out of threads.
By putting a couple of washers under the nut then re-tighten with the air gun, the rubber bushing compressed better than before. The front end knock was gone. Co-workers (rams with the ranco9000)have had no such problem.
2
The factory shock bolt fits loose on the truck shock bracket and the shock sleeve. It is of "metric size" and has to many threads. These threads work(wear)their way into the shock sleeve making the bolt a little slopey.
This bolt can be upsized for a better fit
Use a 4" long 9/16" grade 8 bolt(min. remember 9/16 is oversized adding strength)The bolt should have 1 3/4 shoulder for the shock sleeve to ride on (to much shoulder and you will run out of thread on tightening up). Most 4"bolts have a 2"shoulder this will have to be(threads cut) cut back to 1 3/4". New metal tabs with the 9/16" nut will have to be made up,use the factory nut tabs for size.
Make sure you use a washer on the bolt head end for better support. The bolt will fit tight but with out to much trouble.
It is handy to have a buddy hold the bolt tab in place while you get that bolt turning.
Not sure if this helps you but, it sure made a difference in my 98. The 2001. 5 got the same upgrade as D. C. still hasn't changed the loose fitting bolts.
(edited 02-16-2001). ]

[This message has been edited by trucknut (edited 02-16-2001). ]

 

[Roger Ledbetter]

Thanks, I will give that a try and report back. My fronts made noise but re-tighting them took care of them. My problem is with the rears.
RogerLed

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'98 12V 3500 Dually Std Cab, Auto, 3. 54, Banks Stinger Plus, Sun Coast TC. BD valve body, BD Pressureloc

 

[BCFAST]

A possible source... the bolt holes at the top and bottom of the new shock require a metal sleeve. My Ranchos were missing a couple and I had to get them out of the old shocks. Without these sleeves, the shock slops around the bolts... the hole's too big.

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97 2500 CC 4x4 3. 54 5spd, Green, #12 plate slid all the way forward, 4inch open exhaust, 235/85 Michelins, RS 9000's, PrimeLoc, Red Tops, TDR cloisonae grill badge!

 

[Big MAK]

Similar to what BCFAST said; when I had 9000s installed on one of my trucks the shop didn't use Dodge washers and bushings -- resulting in looseness and rattle. Ruined one of the shocks from causing it to bind and catch -- putting knicks in the piston. The universal washers and bushings the shop tend to use don't fit quite right.

 

[Champane Flight]

My wife heard a rattle in the backend after new shocks. It turned out tab on nut upper bolt was turned up. Allowing it to make contact with bed on the bumps. Also had the front shocks top nut back out. Looked tight but was not.

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95 Dodge 2500 Luverne grill guard,headache rack,running boards and Amzoiled. Soon to be mildly bombed. 84 Dodge d-150, 318 Hooker headers,Edelbrok intake,mallory ignition,Carter Afb,Accel coil,and Custom dual exhaust. Boat,fifthwheel,motorcycles,and shop,job to support toys. Yuck...

 

[Dog Hauler]

I have the same problem with my new 9000's. I am going to check the nuts and if that doesn't do it, return the original shocks and see if that's it.

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01 2500 SLT, LWB, 4x4, 3. 54 Axle, Rancho 9000's, K&N filter, otherwise stock

 

[red1ton]

I have been hearing a thump when I go in drive ways. Kinda like something is falling into the bed. I wonder if I have a lose rear shock. Since I didn't put them in, I don't know if they were installed correctly. My body doesn't let me do that kind of work any more. I am also having a problem with the in cab controller losing air.

I must admit, the stock truck has not had one problem in 7000 miles. Its the after market stuff that is giving me grief.

#ad


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2001, 3500, 2X4, QC, SLT, Auto, 3. 54 gears, camper and tow packages. Lance model 1130 camper. Rancho 9000 5 Speed shocks. BD Brake, autoloc, pressureloc. Hadley air horns. OEM bugshield w/eyebrows and dash cover. Member San Jose Ram Runners.

 

[Roger Ledbetter]

Boy I sure thought it was those flag nuts interfering with the body but they check out OK. I can lay on my back and lift the body up and down and hear my noise. Sounds like there is some backlash or end travel in the shock itself probably the valve. I can live with the noise but hard to believe the stock OEM shocks didn't do it. Oh yeah it goes away when there is any weight in the bed.
I used the hardware from the old shock and installed the steel sleeves, seems pretty solid to me.

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'98 12V 3500 Dually Std Cab, Auto, 3. 54, Banks Stinger Plus, Sun Coast TC. BD valve body, BD Pressureloc

 

[Dennis Garrett]

I had a hard to find front end rattle when my 97 was new. It was the bottom shock bolt. It had to be tightned a little more to pull the sides of the pressed channel in against the rubber bushing. I later removed both lower bolts because the shock bottom holes had pounded the treads flat. I got longer bolts with unthreaded shanks that fit the shock hole a little better, & tightened them up hard enough to pull the channel sides up tight against the bushings.

 

[Extreme1]

Hi Everybody!
This might be a little over simplistic but...
When I installed mine I had a rattle too. Look up the torque for the rear bolts. It is HIGH! Torqueing them to the FSM spec. solved the problem. They were already tight by my standards but apparently not tight enough.

Trucknut's fix seems pretty good, too bad you can't buy the SAE version of the nut.


Champane Flight: A rattle in your wifes backend! LOL!

EDIT:
As for the air leak, be sure the tubes are cut square, I used a tubing cutter. Thighten the plastic "nuts" tightly, it souldn't leak down for several days.




[This message has been edited by Extreme1 (edited 02-16-2001). ]

 

[red1ton]

Ok, what are we talking about for torque? I don't have a FSM so I don't have a clue.

Thanks for your help.

#ad


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2001, 3500, 2X4, QC, SLT, Auto, 3. 54 gears, camper and tow packages. Lance model 1130 camper. Rancho 9000 5 Speed shocks. BD Brake, autoloc, pressureloc. Hadley air horns. OEM bugshield w/eyebrows and dash cover. Member San Jose Ram Runners.

 

[Dennis Garrett]

Tighten them until they strip, then back off half a turn.

 

[Roger Ledbetter]

Hey, I tightened them until they stripped and the noise weent away. Just kidding!
I did not torque them to spec but they are real tight. I think I read on a search it is 100 ft/lb. Time to break out the torque wrench.

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'98 12V 3500 Dually Std Cab, Auto, 3. 54, Banks Stinger Plus, Sun Coast TC. BD valve body, BD Pressureloc

 

[Steve St.Laurent]

For at least some of you the problem may be the overload springs hitting their stops. Very normal and well documented.



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-Steve St. Laurent - President of the Great Lakes TDR
'98 QC LB (CMNSPWR), 4x4, ISB, 5sp, 4. 10 LSD, TST Powermax, 275hp RV injectors, Joe Donnelly modifed Sachs Clutch, custom ladder bars, SW fuel pressure gauge, BD exhaust brake, Isspro turbo temp monitor, front Draw-Tite receiver, rear Draw-Tite class V receiver, BFG 285/75R16 AT KO's, (all the common stuff clipped)

 

[groundpounder]

do a search on this and you will find numerous posts and the solution for this same problem. I found that I needed to tighten my passenger side front shock bolt. I used a 1/2 air gun and I rattled the he11 out of it.