RCV joints instaled

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DGamelin

TDR MEMBER
We installed a set of RCV joints & shafts in a 2010 and a manual hub kit. These joints are very impressive. It went pretty easy, the joint passes through the knuckle, that was nice. The last ones we installed you had to put the knuckle on after the joint and shafts were installed. They wouldn't fit through the center of the knuckle. The axle housing was pretty clean except for cleaning up the grease someone had put on the shaft's seal area the last time they had the axles out. You only need a thin layer of grease there. Too much grease will end up all over the seal causing sand to stick to it and work like sand paper. I like to wipe the grease off the shaft's seal area so it's just wet with grease, no visible grease. We used the spin-tech hubs that needed their usual machine work done to them. It was a pretty slick setup. The customer said you can hardly tell the difference between locked and unlocked. I believe that's because the CV joints are just that much smoother and less restrictive. On my truck it's obvious when you lock and unlock the hubs. The U-joints must have that much more drag, because the U-joint changes direction twice with every revolution. You can feel the drag when you're changing lanes and turning corners at a moderate speed and up, unlock the hubs and it is much lighter. His steering locked in feels much lighter than mine.



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93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 292k

04. 5 3500 4wd cc dully 373 6speed
 
"spin-tech hubs that needed their usual machine work done to them"



Could you provide some more detail on the added machine work. I am thinking of purchasing a set.

Thanks
 
We can do a little better on the price, if we can at times we can throw in some extra goodies.



The outer clip that would go on the shaft isn't used by spin-tech. We don't agree that it is ok to leave it off. The clip is used to keep the inner shaft seal tight and keep crap out. They believe when you turn, the u-joint will self center the shaft, and it will. But it doesn't keep it tight enough for the snow belt. We have done the machine work a couple different ways. There is nothing hard about it. On this one using RCVs we did the work on the inside of the hubs. The collar that slides on the shaft had to be milled back just a little. You have to take the hub apart so you can grind on just the collar it has a chamfer on it take it down to the bottom of the chamfer and your done. I think the RCVs outer shaft are just a little longer then the 60 shafts that come with the kit. On the 60 shafts that come with the kit we take them to a machine shop and have a grove cut in them as far out as possible. On my truck I have one done each way, when I take it apart I will see what worked better.



Now this is my opinion, I don't want it to turn into a ******* mach with spin-tech, I like their kit because the abs exciter is sealed inside and the dully hub is one piece. The machine work on the dully hub is so nice, I think it could be used as a pice of art in the house but the wife didn't think so.



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93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 292k

04. 5 3500 4wd cc dully 373 6speed
 
They were for a 2010 with the large u-joins. If you plan on using u-joints axles on a 2010 with the big u-joints the inter shafts will not fit on the outer shafts that come with the kit. They failed to tell us that when we bought then. You have to get a set of older inter shafts that use the smaller u-joints, unless they have got that fixed and have new outer shafts for the kit. If they don't I would look at dynatrac.



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93 250 2wd xc 354 auto 292k

04. 5 3500 4wd cc dully 373 6speed
 
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