Re-Packing Wheel Bearings

[Silver Ratler]

I have a question for the "Seasoned" RV veterans out there.



When you re-pack your wheel bearings do you clean the bearings with a good solvent before re-packing? I have found many on different RV web sites that just re-pack the bearings without cleaning them thoroughly. I would be afraid of not seeing tell tale signs of failure without cleaning them.



Just wondering if my thinking is correct... ... Taught this way mannny years ago. Thanks,

 

[BIGNASTY]

I clean mine and repack evey year on all the trailers we have even the oil bath bearings, Cheap insurance I think and peace of mind going down the road.

 

[DavidC]

Clean in solvent, wash with water and blow dry with air without spinning. Inspect the bearing and rotate by hand feeling for any binding then repack. There is no other way to be sure.

Dave

 

[mfurrh55]

The best way to clean them is to boil them, it gets every bit of old grease out, Do this every couple of years and have not had any trouble so far, Monte

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

I solvent clean them carefully. Also, especially if you don't, you have to be sure the new grease is compatible with the old. There are different types, lithium, sodium, aluminum complex, polymer complex, etc. and they are not cross-compatible.

 

[jelag]

I was taught that stoddard solvent would leave a chemical residue that would inhibit the ability of the grease to adhere to the roller, thus there would be a limited amount of surface grease to lubricate properly... but I also agree with washing in hot soapy water after the use of solvent, rinsing and blowing dry... I also would suggest that you wipe the hub clean with a soft rag... change the surface often. . repack the bearing and put a light surface on the exterior of the bearing and on the race in the hub... . I was taught to bring the bearing tight with the retaining nut to make sure all the play was removed... than back off and tighten... I've always done this by feel and have taught lots of friends to do this... but to be honest don't know how to describe it here... other than its snug with no play...

After owning a lot of work trailers and at least a couple of million miles towing these trailers we learned that the best surprise was no surprise... I made all the drivers who worked for me to test all tires, hubs, and drums at each rest stop... tires should be under 130 *, hubs were always under 120* unless the temperature outside was over 100* and the brakes should all be even... . we extended the service of the hubs and bearings to every 3rd year unless we needed to go in to repair an electric brake... if we saw a change in temperature the trailer was given a once over the next time it was back at the shop...

We re-manufactured HD truck parts... the trailers were always at gross weight, out with new product and back with cores... . I think we trued the surface were the magnet ran more often than we turned the drums... because we ran exhaust brakes on all the trucks...

Hope this helps give you an insight on how we did it...

 

[mwilson]

Don't forget to inspect the inner race of the tapered bearing (where the rollers run). They will start to flake and you will miss it if the bearing is not clean.



Here is a failure analysis ***ter from Timken, enlarge it a bit after it loads. Some good info on it.

http://www.timken.com/en-US/products/bearings/productlist/roller/cylindrical/Documents/BDA***ter.pdf



Mike.

 

[mwilson]

A wall p o s ter is a dirty word????



WTH???



Mike.

 

[MelvinPierce]

Any word with p o s in it gets ***. Stupid.

 

[BIGNASTY]

A wall p o s ter is a dirty word????

WTH???

Mike.

I sure hope you mean WHAT THE HECK MIKE NOT WHAT THE HELL OPPPPPS

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Any word with p o s in it gets ***. Stupid.

YUP - more of the "delights" provided by the latest board software "upgrade"...