Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Re-Torqueing Head and reseting the valve clearances

[JaMan]

I'm going to re-torque the head to 120# and I need to know how to reset the valves. I know you have to find top dead center and adjust some and turn 180* and adjust the others but what are the specifics, how do you find tdc and what are the tollerances on the valves?



Thanks to all,

Jared

 

[PC12Driver]

Check a few threads down. Lot's of info there:

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120966

 

[GatorRam]

Are you wanting to do both or just re-torque the head and think you will mess up the valve settings?



Adam

 

[JaMan]

Thats really all I am trying to do is torque the head, I had a head gasket replaced by the dealer in the end of Dec. and want to retorque the head to 120# but figured I would have to redo the valve lash and how else could you get to the ones under the rockers? If anyone knows how to do this w/out the valve adjust then all anvice would be appreciated. The dealer adjusted the valves 7,000miles ago. How far out will the valves be? Thanks Jared

 

[Jetpilot]

If you retorque the head you also need to check valve lash.



If you remove the crankcase breather and look inside you will see the pump gear. Line the timing mark on the pump gear to 12 O'clock and adjust Intake 1-2-4 and Exhaust 1-3-5. Then rotate the engine until the the timing mark is at 6 O'clock and adjust Intake3-5-6 and Exhaust 2-4-6.



Normally most guys set the Intakes to 0. 010 and Exhausts to 0. 020.



Hope this helps... .



Doug

 

[paulb]

If you retorque the head you also need to check valve lash.



If you remove the crankcase breather and look inside you will see the pump gear. Line the timing mark on the pump gear to 12 O'clock and adjust Intake 1-2-4 and Exhaust 1-3-5. Then rotate the engine until the the timing mark is at 6 O'clock and adjust Intake3-5-6 and Exhaust 2-4-6.



Normally most guys set the Intakes to 0. 010 and Exhausts to 0. 020.



Hope this helps... .



Doug

The crankcase breather un-screws... .



Paul

 

[Jetpilot]

Yup, just remove the hose from it to the bottle and unscrew it. If it is real tight you can use an oil filter wrench on it. Also you will need a mirror and a small flashlight to see the timing mark.



Doug

 

[JaMan]

The timing mark is the fine line on the front washer? And do you measure the gap between the "y" and the rocker? Thanks...



Jared

 

[jwilliams3]

I would follow the Cummins spec (torque+90*) for resetting the head bolts.

Torquing to a number like 120 can over stretch the used bolts.

You might not ever get a click wrench to work with these style bolts.



I have done this and some of the bolts just keep stretching.

 

[Jetpilot]

The timing mark is on the gear itself, it is a line that will line up with the TDC line marked on the timing cover..... As for where to measure insert a feeler gauge between the rocker arm socket and the Y crosshead.



Doug

 

[Todd T]

I use a small mirror to see the timing mark better (wife's compact case i stole). i hold it at about a 45 and shine a light to see real well. its kinda tuff to get the alignment for the 180 out. i just try to center it off the little half moon part on the cover. some day i'll locate it and mark up my balancer since i have to be under the truck now to bar the engine over (twins are in the way to do it from above)



you always should set the valves after a retorque. two reasons, 1st there are four or five bolts you have to remove the rocker assemblies to get to, 2nd if it creeps down them you may move out of spec on the settings.

 

[Todd T]

BTW: if you follow the link to the thread above DONT go by what Rcook posted from Chad Sheets, his settings . 20 Int. and . 40 Exh. are bogus, and you dont bar the engine 360 for the next six you bar it 180 (6 O'clock) 360 would bring you back to 12 O'clock. bar it watching the timing gear not the crankshaft. you want to error on the tight side not the loose side of things. too loose and you'll mushroom the valve stems from hammering them. not to mention you would be losing total lift.

 

[GKinney]

rotation

I think that is what RCook was talking about was watching the crank for the 360* rotation. Since the injection pump only rotates at 1/2 the speed of the crank, it would be 180* on the pump gear or 360* on the crank. Either way hope this helps, I'm going to do mine this weekend and put on my new shiny red valve cover.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

I would follow the Cummins spec (torque+90*) for resetting the head bolts.

Torquing to a number like 120 can over stretch the used bolts.

You might not ever get a click wrench to work with these style bolts.

I can't see how that would work on a re-torque, that's the method for initial head installation. Once you have gotten the engine to operating temp a couple times you won't be able to do the 90* method. You'd be overtorquing and quite likely stretching and possibly breaking head bolts.



Vaughn

 

[Jetpilot]

When a head is retorqued the bolts need to be broken loose one at a time and retorqued to the proper specification.



Doug

 

[jwilliams3]

Vaughn,

Whats your method for changing heads?

 

[JoshPeters]

My first headgasket... . I tried to do the 120lbs torque. I broke a head bolt. Cummins spec is a streach bolt spec. I wouldn't try to retorque them.



Josh

 

[Todd T]

When a head is retorqued the bolts need to be broken loose one at a time and retorqued to the proper specification.



Doug

Doug's Dead on! line torqueing or sequencing is fine for this.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Doug's Dead on! line torqueing or sequencing is fine for this.

I stand corrected then

I always thought a retorque involved using the torque wrench set at 120 and going in sequence making sure they were still at 120.



Good thing I didn't try retorquing mine. I did the 90-degree method then haven't touched it since. That was 20,000 miles ago and all OK so far.



Vaughn

 

[JaMan]

So should I just check them at 90# and leave it alone? I was just trying to avoiud another head gasket problem by wanting to torque them to 120# I had been told that it would help. My wastgate is set at 47psi and It cools good but I don't want to replace a head gasket just yet till I'm ready to o-ring the head. Don't know what the dealership put them at after the headgasket change 7000 miles ago just trying to be prevenative, I imagine all dealership mechanics are not created the same... Any thoughts?



Jared