Here I am

Ready to build a Bio Diesel Processor, Need some Advice

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Hydrogen fuel systems

Cummins approved the use of B20.

I have been planning to build a Bio Diesel processor for a while and now with my tax return that is going to happen very soon.

So I have a couple of questions for those who have already been there and done that. . :D



1st, I hear of filters getting plugged all the time, I have a FASS 150 with 2 filters and the stock fuel filter in place. Has anyone tried to run 100% Bio Diesel through this setup?



2nd How have the 24 Valves and the VP 44 hold up to bio diesel? My VP44 has 219,000 miles on it now with 150,000 miles being bombed and still getting the job done(knock on wood :rolleyes: ).



3rd Anyone in western South Carolina/ eastern Georgia that has a Bio Diesel Processor I could take a look at ?



Lastly, I have seen many different designs of processors and still not sure of the best combination. If I have done my research correctly I need to maintain around 145 degrees to make bio diesel correctly.

So here is the QUESTION

What is the BEST home made Bio Diesel processor configuration I could build?

Thanks

Kyle
 
boiling point

methanol Boiling Point 64. 7c = 148 f

the methanol will boil off at this temp and I bet this is at sea level.



At 145 you are close to boiling it all off.



never have made it just my . 02



the fass unit will pump the stuff just fine the 150/95 gpm would be the better one to use the one on my truck is a 150/150 and it pumps blend fuel at -20 below. just heat the fuel pump it will be fine.



if I ever decide to make biodiesel I would use the Appleseed Proceser just Google it and all the info you need will be there.



cj hall
 
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The plugging on the filters is from 2 points , not an ongoing thing , 1 the bio cleans the fuel system of buildup , once its gone [ maybe 1 week at 20% ] #2 bad batch of fuel , if you made a mistake , then the same as any other fuel , you let it get cold with out additives , it can gel .
Its good for the VP pumps , they need all the lube help they can get , the problem is the high pressure in common rail systems .
Since you want to build your own , like cj said ,
Biodiesel & SVO Forums - Powered by eve community
This web site is part of the Appleseed group , forums , you can get anything you will need there , books , supplies .
The trick is getting a ready supply of oil to process , start asking all the restrants that you can .
 
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Well Kyle I suggest you go here to start Biodiesel & SVO Forums Home - Powered by eve community just do some reading most of the info is there. I am fond of making a processor out of a 55gallon drum, cheap and easy to build if you can weld in a few bungs. I have an old thread in this forum that might help with this. https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/alternative-fuels/135656-bio-diesel-contraption.html



You want to run your process @ 130 degrees for about 2 1/2 to 3 hours if using the cheap pump like I have which works just fine.



Your FASS pump will work just fine and your VP will be ok as well. I suggest changing the main filter in your FASS every 10k miles. I am beginning to think the initial plugging of fuel filters is a myth or caused by poorly made fuel because I have yet to see it. My old Toyota diesel had 280k on the odo and I started it out on b100 and have never had a filter problem in 30k miles. 6 trucks in the area and not one problem caused by this.



Cold weather will be the worst problem so you will need to cut the percentage of BD to 50% or less in the winter once it gets below about 35.
 
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Even at 140F there's a LOT of methanol leaving the reaction vessel. I recommend you do the reaction around 100-110F. All the animal fats are liquid at that temp, the reaction takes place in seconds, and you will have minimal Meth evaporation.

Now... . You need to be over 140F for the oil to let the suspended water drop out. So I would heat to over 140F, drain the water off the bottom, let it cool to under 115F and do the reaction. I made Bio every Sunday for over 3 years. These numbers are form experience.

Joe
 
Joe how long do you run your process and what pump do you use.



Blair



Even at 140F there's a LOT of methanol leaving the reaction vessel. I recommend you do the reaction around 100-110F. All the animal fats are liquid at that temp, the reaction takes place in seconds, and you will have minimal Meth evaporation.

Now... . You need to be over 140F for the oil to let the suspended water drop out. So I would heat to over 140F, drain the water off the bottom, let it cool to under 115F and do the reaction. I made Bio every Sunday for over 3 years. These numbers are form experience.

Joe
 
When doing the reaction over 100F, I only run the pump a few minutes. I let the Bio settle overnight before pumping it off the top of the Glycerine.

I use a hydraulic pump mounted to an 110V electric motor. I swap hoses on/off it depending on what I'm pumping. When I pump the veg oil from the heating tank to the reaction tank, I use 3/4" ID hose so it goes quickly. When I pump the Bio into the holding tank or fuel cans I use 3/8" fuel hose. That slows the pump down so I don't blow my filter apart.

I don't make Bio every week anymore, but that's how I did it when I was making large batches every week.

Joe
 
Oh!, and I don't blend with the pump. I use a stirring rod connected to a furnace fan motor. Stirring is the only way to get the methoxide blended quickly in my opinion. If it gets blended too slowly you can end up making a layer of paraffin. Some of it will eventuall convert back to Bio, but it's still a pain to deal with. My stirrer can make a vortex nearly to the bottom of the drum. Then I splash blend the meth.

Joe
 
Thanks Joe, I have been putting some thought into stirring instead of using my pump for mixing but things just keep coming up and I never get around to fabbing something up. How long do you mix with your stirring system? Is that only a few minutes as well.



The way I have been doing it for the last 2 1/2 years has been working and passes 3-27 every time so it hasn't been a priority yet. I also had it tested with a GC and it passed ASTM as well.
 
Thanks Joe, I have been putting some thought into stirring instead of using my pump for mixing but things just keep coming up and I never get around to fabbing something up. How long do you mix with your stirring system? Is that only a few minutes as well.



The way I have been doing it for the last 2 1/2 years has been working and passes 3-27 every time so it hasn't been a priority yet. I also had it tested with a GC and it passed ASTM as well.





I'm sorry I wasn't clear about that. I only mix it with the stirrer for a few minutes while/after adding the Meth. By then the reaction is already finished, and now I just have to wait for it to settle.

If you're passing ASTM, then you certainly don't need home-brewing advice from anyone! Great job. As longs as you are somehwat careful, and have a source of good used oil, your Bio will be as nice as anything you can buy.

Joe
 
I just ordered a couple of tanks. 15 gallon and a 60 gallon high density and now need suggestions for filters, plumbing and pumps. I have heard or read I need somewhere are around 10 gpm pump. I am also still not sure what mixing method of the lye/ methanol I want to use. So any suggestions, please speak up, when this thing is working I will post some photos.

Thanks

Kyle
 
Kyle,

Splash blending and stirring with a high speed stirrer is the only way to go. Blending with a pump takes forever and comes with it's own set of problems, like the methoxide reacting with the pump, and local paraffin formation at the blend point. Some guys like it. I don't... . obviously.

For a pump, I bought a hydraulic pump driven by an electric motor. It pump a little over 10 gpm when I put the large pickup hose on it. It pumps raw oil with ease an doesn't complain when it has to eat small food particles. They're expensive though. Expect to spend over $400. 00 for one. My buddy that bought a diesel fuel pump has been through a couple of them. They burned up when making large fuel transfers from one tank to another.

Joe
 
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