Here I am

Ready to Buy Gauges...Need Help

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Duramax: I drove one, I liked it.

Who has done the most mods to their trucks?

Originally posted by Eventer:
  • EGT (4365)
  • Boost (4305)
  • Dual Pod (15203)
  • DPDT Switch (Ace H/W 31504 - 20 amp, 125 VAC)
  • Additional Sensor/Wiring (P/Ns ?)

<font color=blue>

The EGT is correct for 0 to 1600&deg; "single" channel gauge.
The boost is correct for the "new" 0 to 60 PSI gauge.
The pod you listed is a dual pod for the pillar.
You'll need two thermocouples to run pre and post and I believe you need #5244 that is what is recommended when running one thermocouple.

Since I only run preturbo I can't comment on what else you need, however I would just ring up AutoMeter's tech line (815) 895-8141 and explain to them what you wish to do. And see what they say since they maybe have something or know something "we" don't.
Just make sure that if they try to get ya a different EGT gauge (dual channel) it will prolly read 600 to 1600&deg; and for post turbo readings its useless since you shut down around 300&deg; preturbo #ad

Hope this helps.
 
<blockquote>Originally posted by EMDDIESEL:
&quot;; ... ..... But, since you said your truck is mostly stock, if you are not going to do much more mods other then an exhaust and induction, there is really no need to monitor both EGT locations. Honestly, even with alot of mods, monitoring EGT's Pre AND Post turbo are really not going to help you much. Its really overkill. Pre turbo EGT's the critical issue... ..... </blockquote>

I recall an informative posting on the virtues of pre or post turbo pyrometer monitoring. The pre-turbo (exhuast manifold) location gave a better reading while under load as the pounds of boost pressure fudge factor could be damagingly low when calculating up from post-turbo. During cool downs, the pre-turo readings would drop quickly to the magic 300&deg;F. no coke level, but the post-turbo readings would lag up to several minutes before getting to the same temperature.

Wish I knew the best answer, but both is a safe compromise in my book.

Cheers;
John E
 
The reason the POST turbo readings stay higher longer then the PRE turbo readings once you are idleing is because the Exhaust side of the Turbo is made of cast iron and holds heat longer then the Pre turbo side since the exhaust coming out of the cylinders and passing through the heads cools quicker from the aluminum heads and coolant. Once your engine is idleing it does not produce alot of EGT heat so this cooler exhaust goes through the turbo and picks up heat from it (Like a heat exchanger) then it goes from the turbo into the exhaust and past your POST turbo Thermocouple. Which in turn is giving you the higher EGT reading from the heat exchange it has performed. It is still ok to shutdown as long as yoru Pre Turbo EGT is 300 or less since your turbo has actually been cooled enough at this point.
This is another of the many reasons why if you are only going to install one Thermocouple it should be PRE turbo. No matter what you do, post turbo readings are innacurate as to the true EGT of your engine. Bigger exhaust will cool your turbo faster by letting more volume of hot gasses get away from the turbo, which in turn leads to even more innaccurate readings from the Post turbo Thermocouple.
The main purpose on an EGT gauge is not for telling you when it is ok to shutdown your engine. It is to let you know if your engine cylinders are reaching a dangerous tempature due to too much fuel or when you are pushing it too far. Aluminum pistons WILL melt, i have seen it happen more then once on diesels. The EGT gauge is there to let you know when to back off the throttle. Its secondary function is to let you know that the EGT has dropped to a cool enough level that you can shutdown without any "Coking" problems. Synthetic oil is great for that problem since it has a much higher thermal stability.
Personally i think 99% of the people who are against Pre turbo Thermocouples are scared because somewhere somebody started a rumor that the Thermocouples can break off or melt and trash your turbo or they are afraid that a few metal chips you may miss when drilling and tapping for it will wreck the turbo. I have said before, Thermocouples wont melt untill about 2000 degrees, Your EGT could NEVER reach that temp, your pistons would have melted and your engine siezed long before then. And the only way one can "Break off" is if something hits it, and if something does (Which could only be a piece of a valve) that object itself would grenade your turbo. Metal fillings damaging it from installing the Thermocouple?, Remotley possible, i have installed almost 10 of them and have never taken a turbo off to do it, what few pieces that the magnet may miss will blow out on startup at which point the Turbo is not spinning near fast enough to be damaged. Dont worry about these virtually immpossible odds of Turbo damage. Correct EGT readings are far more important for engine and turbo life.
 
Thanks for all the input. I will definitely install the probe pre-turbo.

JohnE - If I read your comment correctly, I can shut down if the pre-turbo temp has dropped to 300 degrees?

I was comparing prices at Summit Racing v. Geno's Garage. It looks like Summit Racing does not include the probe while Geno's does. ("EGT probe (1/8 NPT), wiring and light kit for the EGT gauge). If I bought the Geno's gauge (#4365) would this include everything needed? I just want to make sure that I have everything before I start.

EMDDIESEL - With regards to the Pyschotty Air Induction unit, I printed the instructions today and was underneath the hood an hour ago looking where the hole is to be drilled. I just need to come up with the money for EGT, boost and the Psyschotty!

Thanks everyone for your input!
 
Glad to help. You can shutdown when your Pre turbo reading has reached 300 or less. Also, for the Psychotty hole, look in the far corner on the passenger side firewall right below the rubber hood seal. It is has a black "fiberglass like" insulation covering it, pull it down and you will see a nice flat area where the hole goes. Real easy to drill.
As for Genos selling the EGT gauge with the probe, i dont know if it includes the probe, i do know that if it does, it would have to be at least 150 bucks, probably more. Definatley ask them before ordering.

Good luck
 
I have been reading everyone's posts on EGT and boost gauges and have decided that I would like to order the AutoMeter Ultra-Lite series gauges for my truck.

I want to use one EGT gauge and mount the sensors both pre- and post-turbo with a DPDT switch. In anticipation of this momentous event, I want to bounce my choices (part numbers, etc. ) off everyone to make sure that I have this right the first time.

This will be the first BOMB for me, unless you count the blow-by bottle and turbo silencer ring. Thanks in advance for all your help!

- EGT (4365)
- Boost (4305)
- Dual Pod (15203)
- DPDT Switch (Ace H/W 31504 - 20 amp, 125 VAC)
- Additional Sensor/Wiring (P/Ns ?)

Since I want to run one EGT gauge both pre- and post-turbo, I assume that I will need one additional complete set of probe and wiring since I believe one set comes with the EGT gauge. What is the Part Number for this?

As I am electrically challenged, any help with wiring would also be greatly appreciated. I think I can drill the hole in the exhaust manifold (I have a picture from TST), but I know that will be a nail-biter! Where is the probe mount placed post-turbo?

I have looked at Summit Racing and they seem to have the best price.

Thanks again.

------------------
Lyndon Hendry
Chief Equine Officer (CEO) and
President for Life
Head Over Heels Farm

2001 2500 QC LB ETH/DEE 3. 55RE Patriot Blue
Pop-Up Hitch, Stock engine except for MIA blow-by-bottle

"An oil burner for the hay burners. "
 
I dont know for sure if all your part mubers are correct, but i will add a few details to help. First, Autometer EGT gauges do NOT include the Thermocouple since you use different ones for different applications. So if you want to read your EGT's both Pre and Post turbo, you need to buy TWO Thermocouples. But, since you said your truck is mostly stock, if you are not going to do much more mods other then an exhaust and induction, there is really no need to monitor both EGT locations. Honestly, even with alot of mods, monitoring EGT's Pre AND Post turbo are really not going to help you much. Its really overkill. Pre turbo EGT's the critical issue. Last i checked, Thermocouples were about 80 or 90 bucks each. I would rather save the money you would spend on the other Thermocouple and buy a Psychotty kit which will lower your EGT's by about 150 degrees. Your best source to confirm Part numbers and other gauge related questions is to call Autometer at 815-895-8141 and ask for the Tech departmaent, also they can give you the right EGT Part numbers too. Good luck
 
Some of the exhaust brakes have an actuator that mounts where you cut the hole for the Physcotty (sp), I'm sure it could go elsewhere, just wanted to throw that out there.
Scott
 
Eventer;
I believe the correct answer is both pre & post turbo temperatures must be at or below 300&deg;F to prevent coking in the turbo oil passages.

EMD Diesel;
Wasn't EMD once a GM division?

Good explanation on the pre & post turbo cooldown lag except for a major point:
<blockquote>&quot;... the Exhaust side of the Turbo is made of cast iron and holds heat longer then the Pre turbo side since the exhaust coming out of the cylinders and passing through the heads cools quicker from the <em>aluminum heads</em> and coolant. &quot;</blockquote>
Aluminum & heads doesn't fit our beloved Cummins. Some of the marine Cummins use aluminum and the (now defunct) 503, 504, & 555 Cummins were V-8 or 2 head configurations.

You made the best point on synthetic oils. It will survive the higher temperatures much better than conventional oils.

My personal belief is that post-turbo is better for non bomber and pre-turbo is better for higher boost (BOMBed) situations.

Cheers;
John E
 
Correct on the Cylinder head not being aluminum John, must have been thinking of a Duramax for some bizzare reason. And EMD still is a part of GM. They were going to sell it off in the late 80's but changed there minds, good thing they did, sales went through the roof in the early 90's. They are still Headquarted in La Grange,Ill but all they make there is engines. The locomotive assembly in now done in London Ontario Canada
 
I was looking at Geno's Garage Web site tonight and they have the UltraLite EGT gauge but with two different probes. What is the difference, besides the price, between a racing probe and street probe and why would I need a racing probe anyway. I don't plan on doing any major bombing. Probably just an EZ box since my budget can't afford a new clutch yet (and the wife hid the checkbook #ad
).
 
The street version uses a Shielded Thermocouple, the racing version is unshielded and therfore, faster responding, i have only used the racing version. If you are going to stay stock, it really is no big deal which you choose.
 
Back
Top