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Real locking hubs??

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I have heard on this and other sites many times about how great locking hubs are, you know the kind where you have to get out and turn the dial on the wheel, I have often read how superior these are to what our current dodges have. there was even a thread some time ago where someone was converting their dodge over to locking hubs. I was wondering just why people think these are so great, last year while on a coyote hunting trip in the middle of the boonies my buddy in his ford (real locking hubs) went to turn around there was some snow, to make a long story short we got stuck and stranded in the middle of no where because his so called superior locking hubs didn't lock in for whatever reason ie no 4x4. This is the second time he has had to replace his locking hubs with new ones, another friend who has a similar truck has also had to rebuild and replace his locking hubs on more than one occassion. The system on my '02 just requires me to shift a lever, this is nice because many times I only need 4x4 just for a short time, I don't have to get out and get mud or snow on my feet just to use 4x4!!! also I have never heard of a thread on the TDR where someone was having trouble with the 4x4 system on their dodge. So again I ask maybe I missed something what is so great about locking hubs???
 
A lot less wear on the front end. No axle's spinning, no drive shafts spinning. Better mpg. Less vibration due to less rotating mass. The ability to go 2wd low range for moving heavy loads without binding up the drivetrain. The list goes on...



just my . 02 Oo.
 
the ability to use 2lo. also tell your buddy to put some premium warn hubs on and get rid of the ford ones. if you anticipate a snow storm or going off the beaten trail, you lock the hubs in ahead of time, before you are stuck.
 
The issues cited are actually pretty minor and the convienience has won out of those picky details. The notion that there is a lot less wear is crazy. I use 4x4 quite a bit and still the front diff fluid looks like new for a whole lot longer than the rear diff. That tells me there isn't much wear going on at all. I've had 4 3rd gen trucks and have yet to notice any vibrations due to the front axles and driveshaft turning. One truck hyas 100k miles on it now and other than a front diff fluid change it has needed nothing. I would also bet that disengaging the front drivetrain would net you a 0 mpg increase. It just doesn't add enough resistance to a truck that is shaped like a barn and wieghs nearly 4 tons. Being able to use 2lo would be nice but 90% of the time 4lo works just fine. I think some guys just like to think it would be this huge advantage, I don't see it. Show me some proof of the advantages, milage increases and wear decreases. It is going to be really hard to prove there is any benefit at all.
 
to me the proof is right here, how many people on this site in this forum and over in the 2nd gen forum every have 4x4 problems?? I have heard a few t case problems but never anything to do with the axles. It sounds to me like our system has fewer parts to break, Who wants to replace manual locking hubs?? I just shift a lever and never worry about my hubs not locking in. I would rather turn all the drivetrain parts and have a more reliable 4x4, because nothing sucks more than realizing at the wrong time 4x4 will not work
 
The only thing that consistantly provides trouble in the Dodge setup is the CAD (center axle disconnect) and they did away with that near the start of 02. Truth be told, the CAD is no more trouble that a set of hubs and they'll both fail for some similar reasons.



Would I like to ahve hubs? Yes. In my case because with a lift my front driveline u-joints will not last long turning all the time. Also because my performance clutch is not very smooth so I find myself needing to use low range backing trailers around. That doesn't work well in 4wd. Can I justify the $1500 + dollars for a hub conversion kit? No. That kind of money buys a lot of u-joints.



-Scott
 
BHolm said:
I would also bet that disengaging the front drivetrain would net you a 0 mpg increase.



"Yes, I get about 1-1 1/2, & a lttle better than 2 on the highway. "



This is from the group buy thread for the Warn hubs conversion. How you would get 0 mpg change when you have less rotating mass is like saying a 5. 9 Cummins in a 1500 ram would net you a 0 mpg increase. The lighter the truck the better the mpg, the less effort you use the better the mpg. Less things to move the better you are. simple. Would I spend the money... NO But anything that I drive that gets better than 15 mpg is a bonus.
 
lots of stuff covered- but not this... .



How long will you keep your truck? How important is reliability to you? Getting stranded? Expensive unit brg repairs? Failure in a moments notice (ok 60 miles from a faint intermittent noise to so bad I would not drive it).



I buy into some small mileage increase, but that is not the reason. Unit brgs list for $400 perside + the labor. The full float kit goes to old school serviceable tapered rollers and will last hundreds of thousands of miles, easily and inexpensively serviced. If you like, leave your hubs locked or buy drive flanges (permanently locked) for less than the locking hubs cost. The real and true benefit is a longer lasting front axle assy and greatly improved reliability/servicability due to the full float design- the numbers are easy to justify if you keep your truck a while and don't want to be stranded while they order in the unit brg$$.



See this thread... ... ... ...



https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=148580
 
SRadke said:
Would I like to have hubs? Yes. In my case because with a lift my front driveline u-joints will not last long turning all the time. Also because my performance clutch is not very smooth so I find myself needing to use low range backing trailers around. That doesn't work well in 4wd. Can I justify the $1500 + dollars for a hub conversion kit? No. That kind of money buys a lot of u-joints.



-Scott

You hit the nail on the head with that one.
 
Hey Where can I get a full floating axle kit for the front of my 99' dodge ram 4x4? Do they even make them for that year? I would LOVE to have servicable front hub bearings than I can re-grease and put back together. Also I would like the solid hubs not the locking ones. Please e-mail me at -- email address removed -- or else re-post here.

Thanks, Travis
 
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Well I have owned and driven 4x4's since the mid 70's. Some with locking hubs some without. The ones with manual locking hubs were always a pain in the *****. They all very reliably got moisture in them which froze and thus wouldn't lock when needed. My solution was to lock them in the fall and unlock them in the spring. Never noticed a big difference in milage or front end wear.

Never thought I would, but I love the elecric shift on my 03 Dodge. It just plain works slick as anything in all conditions. And I'am driving in crappy conditions 6 months of the year.
 
Cummins360 said:
Hey Where can I get a full floating axle kit for the front of my 99' dodge ram 4x4? Do they even make them for that year? I would LOVE to have servicable front hub bearings than I can re-grease and put back together. Also I would like the solid hubs not the locking ones. Please e-mail me at -- email address removed -- or else re-post here.

Thanks, Travis



Dynatrac in California 714 596 4461. Locking hubs work great if they are lubed, installed properly and not submerged with leaks (bad install). That said, you can leave them locked or use drive flanges.
 
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I own both a 2ND & 3RD gen Dodge..... On my 94', I'm going to replace the hub with manual lock one when its time to replace the front bearings. I just like being able to service the front bearings. Plus with the manual lock hub conversion, you can also get rid of that damn 2 piece passeger axle and vaccum actulor. I had that fail in Pismo, Ca with my camper on my back and trailer full of quads. It sucks having to lay in the sand manual engage the axle.



For my 06' for now I'm leaving it alone. It's to new to do anything with. I will probably go a head a do the conversion in 2 years. At the same time, I'll probably upgrade to larger front brake if there out there.
 
Just talked to Dyntrac again today about hub conversion kit update for the duallys... They said they machined the center out of the dually wheel adapter and there was not enough materail left to be safe.

I had my truck in there shop about 4 months ago so they could use my truck as a test truck for the duallys and thats when they found out it wouldnt fit the duallys because of the wheel adapter. .

And to top it off my right front wheel bearing went out today :{
 
Go to a SRW setup in the front with fattys for the super single look- been done before.



They claim to have shipped my kit today after the dog ate their homework for the last two weeks. Sent arbitration paperwork to Chrysler today and got some scoop from the AR attourney General:)
 
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