Realistic gooseneck size for 95 2500 SRW

[Coalsmoke]

I am planning on fabricating my own trailer this summer and I am in the process of final design details. What is left to be determined is the size and carrying capacity. I was originally planning on a 12k 20' flat deck lowboy with a 78" wide deck between the wheel wells, but now I'm wondering if I shouldn't bump it up to 14k or even 16k. This rig combo will see speeds no greater than 70mph, and will be towed by my SRW 2500 5spd, with electric trailer brakes and exhaust brake. It will be used for hauling common freight, basically whatever for whomever, including coal and grain bags. I am not too concerned with staying exactly within GCVW and GVW, as I have special mitigations in which I won't have as serious problems if stopped and weighed somewhat over my truck's limit. This is not to say that I want to be dangerously overweight, and it is important to mention that this rig will be seeing some mountainous roads. (Please no weight legality battles, just practicle common sense and good knowledge need be applied).



1. Should I be looking at a longer / greater weight capacity trailer?



2. If I go up to a 15~16k trailer, will I be able to find 4000lb tires for it?



Thanks guys,

The real-life info you provide is invaluable

 

[ndurbin]

Personally I would build the trailer to handle the most weight. 20'-25' would be about right. I'd go with the deck over the axles if it was me that way you get a wider deck to carry larger items. I'd also put tandem dual axles underneath it. And if money wasn't an option I'd rig it up to have an hydraulic dump bed.



Build it to handle as much as you can. Then sometime down the road when you need the extra capacity you'll have it.



Nathan

 

[Okie-Go]

I have a 25ft. gooseneck with 5ft dovetail. this gives me 20ft. of flatbed which is nice. My trailer is 102 inches wide. I had an 82in wide 20ft. and sold it. The length was ok but the width killed me. I could not put a tractor on it and had to reach over the pipe rails. With this trailer I have hauled 3 older tractors at once and even put 3 chours of green red oak on it for the heaviest loads. I have 2 -7k axles with electric brakes on both and 10ply steel radials. This trailer is about right for my use. Some times I wish it was longer, somes times shorter but you have to know your limits. I know people with 36 ft of trailer and they say at times it is too short. Depends on what YOU want and some of it is your experience with pulling longer trailers and the main purpose of having one. Hope I helped.

 

[Farmall Hauler]

Hello Coalsmoke,



My brother is pulling a 28-Ft. gooseneck trailer with his 2500 FWD QC. He has the 22 FT deck with 6 Ft. floating dovetail. It is not uncommon for hitm to weigh in at around 16-thousand with trailer loaded with tractors.



One suggestion I would make if I could? Make sure you have duel front jacks on the trailer. That makes a big difference!

Hope this helps!

 

[CATCRACKER]

how does a 26 foot winston, dove tail, with 16500 lb d3 cat on it sound. and for short distances a 26000 lb track hoe. build it big so you can haul anything. with the track hoe on the back i am over 40,000 (for very short distance not exceeding 35mph on back roads. ) now the dozer on the other hand..... as fast as you want just have to watch the egt and transmission temps

build it once and build it big you want oversized unless you are pulling it everyday.

 

[JPope]

Dual Jacks Suggestion

"... One suggestion I would make if I could? Make sure you have duel front jacks on the trailer. That makes a big difference!"





Definitely

 

[Coalsmoke]

I could probably get away with pulling a D3, but I have to keep in mind this is only a 2500. I don't want to grossly overbuild my trailer today for a truck I may never buy tomorrow. I'm worried about having too much trailer now and thus having a lot of my towing abilities taken up by the heavy trailer. What are the weight figures on your trailer catcracker?



As far as dual jacks, I agree, a deffinitely good investment. Thanks for the tip. It looks like 14,000lbs should be my minimum weight consideration. 16,000 sounds like a pretty good number.



Okie, is your trailer a deck over or low-boy style? I was thinking low boy mostly for center of gravity concerns, but now I'm wondering whether I should be more concerned about the width.

 

[Okie-Go]

My trailer is deck-over. I had a lowboy style and sold it. Mine does have two jacks in the front also. Big and heavy is good but why go to the expense of building very heavy for something that will never be used for this. I figure if I can't haul it with this trailer I don't need to be messing with it. My trailer will be a year old in June and I figure I have close to 10,000 miles on it. I use it quite often and very pleased with it so far.

 

[CUMINNTSTRKN]

colasmoke



that's a very good ? about the weight of the trailer. i use a 30' tandem dual deck over. it weighs in at 8k empty. it's great for local trips, but when i hauled my truck to muncie it was way over kill. between the 2 trucks, the trailer and gear. it weighed in at 26k.



jim

 

[dberry]

Mine is a 20+5 tandem dually, it weighs 5000 lbs. empty. I went big just in case i would need it, I don't think it hurts to have a little more than you need! One thing I wish mine had new was a middle ramp (had to make one). I would use LEDs too, and make sure all your wiring is protected, you would be amazed at what those wires can snag on. I've had no problems towing 15-20k (trailer and load) with my 2500. Hope this helps!

 

[TX Gooseneck]

The GVWR is all in the rating. If you run two 7k axles you have a trailer that will list out at 14k. We like to figure some going into the bed of the truck. You can get away with a 16k rating.

You can build a deck over with tandem singles and max-wide axles.



Let me know if you need any help/design ideas.



Sean

 

[Coalsmoke]

TX, I'd appreciate all the help I can get. I've never built a trailer before but I have the skills. What are max-wide axles? A certain type or just a name brand. Also, at what weight is the cutoff of single tandem to dual tandem? 16k? I'm pretty sure I wouldn't need dual tandem, but I'd like to build the trailer right, so if it means dual then I guess so be it. I appreciate any and all input.

Thanks guys for the help.

 

[TX Gooseneck]

Dexter makes the max-wide, they are 83". We use them on our car-hauler and other drive thru trailers because of the width. The 83" width is from hub face to hub face. On a deck over you can use the standard width axles.



16k is the legal limit. You can push it a little bit, but on the 7's with the singles it gets very spongy when you are overweight.

 

[Coalsmoke]

Can I safely stay with 16k on a 12+ hour trip, or should I stay down to the 14k limit with tandem singles? I plan on using it on steady 12-15hour hauls occassionally, so I'd like to have a little bit of leeway with the tire capabilities. I am starting to seriously wonder whether I might be better off building a light tandem dually instead of a heavy tandem single. Although I keep running the figures and it seems to be right on the edge. I' guess I'll run them again and throw in some variables.

Any opinions on this delema guys?

 

[Farmall Hauler]

I guess if it were me, I would either look at tandem Duelies, or even maybe tri-axels!



I guess Rather be safe than sorry!



Mark

 

[DSteinel]

Tandem dually is the only way to go, blow a tire with singles, and you are going to stop right there on the side of the road and fix it. Blow a tire with dualls, and you prolly can still drive it to someplace to get it fixed or at least off the road. I know this from experience. Also don't worry about overloading your 2500, as long as you are not pulling a semi trailer you will be fine. If you are worried about tongue weight, then just move the axles forward a little when you build it, also makes for tighter turning. If I get time I'll post pics of how my trailer is set up. Dean

 

[cbunt1]

My 2 cents worth.



First, let me say I use a DRW truck -- so my load capacity is a bit different, although where you really feel it is side-to-side stability.



I wouldn't want more than around 25, maybe 30' (including a dove) behind a SRW--it's capable of more, but that's a comfort level.



My 40' trailer weighs just over 9500, with chains, tarps, binders, and straps (several hundered pounds worth there). and I easily put 15k on top of that. At 16-17, it's a h%^&* of a load. I'd say with the SRW I'd go about 12K max--just for stability.



Tandem Duals are the best way to go, and I'd recommend dexter axles (10-12K). Since you're building from the ground up, do yourself a favor -- Electric brakes are nothing but a headache--go with a hydraulic system, and you can drive it with an electric pump (carlisle, BluDot, and MasterBrake systems make good electric/hydraulic units). With hydraulics, you can go with disc brakes, which speaking from experience, will actually stop this kind of load--electric/magnet brakes won't do the job long term.



What you have to keep in mind is that you're entering into commecrial/heavy duty territory--so you have to think 18-wheeler scaled down rather than pickup truck beefed up.



I hope this helps. Feel free to contact me if you wish, for more info



--Chris

 

[CATCRACKER]

28ft winston dual jacks 5400lbs i think. it a 26K trailer. tandem duallies only way to go 14K on the trailer is alot of weight when you also add in the weight of the trailer. dont use singles for this weight. i mean you can but i would not for safety reasons. have you looked at buying a used one. i can make one to but its almost not worth your time. but what ever floats you boat.

 

[Coalsmoke]

I've looked at buying but trailer prices are pretty high around here due to there being a vary linited # of suppliers. Lots of horse trailers, but not gooseneck flatdecks. I would like to be able to get 10,000lbs cargo on the trailer with some room for safety margin. SO it looks like I might just build a higher weighted trailer for the future as suggested above.