Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Really disapointed in my Dodge

[diesel DOG]

I love the motor but the rest seems very poor. I had transmission work at 28,000 the lift pump dies at 58,000 which I expected sooner or later. The kick is the dealer tells me it now needs upper and lower ball joints, track bar, pitman arm, oil pressure switch, and some other code for timing pump doesn't match. At 58,000 miles you have got to be kidding. The truck was greased every 2,000 on the few fittings. I have had some Fords and Chevys but never had all the suspension wear problems till way after 100,000. This seems rediculous for the mileage. I never go off road just drive down the highway. Can't wait to check it myself. Fourth set of brakes now needed but I am usually hard on them.

This is the norm for these trucks? I understand nothing is perfect but all this is really disapointing. I told the sales guy I wanted a 05 and he said "Great" . I saw him today and said it looks like something else in my future besides a Dodge. I had a Westech electric fuel pressure gauge it went from 13 to ZERO when the problem started with no warning lucky I had it as I didn't get stuck. i thought the pressure would go slow with some more warning.



:--) :--) :--) :--)

 

[Ol'TrailDog]

58K You are a lucky pup. Most crap out around 50K.



Unfortunately, most of us are a little slow on the uptake and either keep coming back for more or just keep hanging on. . and on. . and on.



Seriously, sorry to hear about your unpleasant experience. Good luck with your Chevy or Ford.

 

[diesel DOG]

Everything seems to be throw away design now anyway. Pump I expected, brakes are my standard item as I am rough on them. My regular mechanic said Fords go about 80 before ball joints. I saw a Black 04 or 05 Ram dually at a small dealer while traveling this weekend and loved it now :{

 

[DPelletier]

The transmission and lift pumps are well known "weak links" at least you knew about the lift pumps and had a gauge and monitored it. No excuses, those items were designed poorly.

As far as the front end components, all I can tell you is that its not uncommon to need some front end components at 100,000 kms (60,000 mi). I currently have 1 Chevy, three fords and two dodges. All three Fords have had front end work done between 60,000 and 100,000 miles and they are 2wd's. 4x4's are harder on front end components and the Dodges are harder on them yet due to the massive weight of the Cummins.

That having been said, when I sold my 2001. 5 2500 CTD, it was working well. I got a call from the guy that bought it claiming that the local 4x4 shop told him it needed ball joints, track bar, etc. etc. I told him the same thing I'll tell you; unless it has shown some symptoms of needing front end parts, take it to another shop and get a second opinion. He did, and watched as the other shop checked everything and declared that the front end components were in good shape with no parts worn to the point of requiring replacement.

Now, your truck may well need some parts, but don't shell out a bunch of money without checking that it really needs it first.



Hope this helps,

Dave

 

[diesel DOG]

I'll be driving it over to my regular mechanic soon. I have been dealing with the father and now the son since 1975 so I have no problem believing what they say. I'll keep ya posted. dealer may be looking for work. It is like the dealer shooting himself in the foot if he is not truthful. I had a friend who put 400,000 on three CTD. What was the upgraded track bar solution if I keep it?





thanks guys

 

[AKAMAC]

Yo Dog,

Dave is right! My FE is still good at 85. 8k. I replaced my LP at 82k because it was acting funny. My transmission is weak, because of the way I treated it, but still getting me from here to there.

Get the second opinion or like you said check it yourself. At 58k I would be skeptical of the Dealers assessment.

Mike

 

[diesel DOG]

The dealer ******* also serviced my diff's and transfer box. He said he had to remove it the diff covers to clean them out. Anyway i threw him a bone and told him to do it if i get the truck back in one day I will look to see if he did remove and reseal the covers or just sucked it out if he even did that. What is the service interval for the diff's and transfer box on fluids? 45 to change the fuel filter and 35 for the filter. I have done them 4 times myself in a few minutes so 80 plus is extreme i should have my head examined for letting him do it but they were due so I figured they would say he had to anyway when playing with the fuel system. Tires have been wearing OK in the front. I replaced them at 45,000 and the rears are gone now.



Thanks John

 

[hammersley]

I must be lucky -

I use mine in 4x4 - and have 187,000 on her and NO Suspension work at all - AND she is fine... .....

 

[diesel DOG]

Damn what did I do wrong :--) doubt I went 200 miles in 4x4



Hope the dealer was zapping me and the truck is not so bad.

 

[AKAMAC]

John,

Zapped is right! 80 bucks for 5min labor and a $12. 00 filter!

Sorry my Dealer experience has left me sour. Please don't post what they charged for the differential service.

Mike

 

[diesel DOG]

114. 70 lubricant

270. 00 labor for the diff's and transfer case.



I service my Lull rough terrain forklifts so I am not stupid. Just dumb when it came to saying yes. Can't wait to look if he removed the diff covers in daylight. My guess is they didn't they may have sucked it through the fill plug. They said "Swap fuel filter and bleed system" :-laf I never did when I changed them, ten minute deal. I do understand profit and labor rates as I have a union bricklaying company. Wish I had a labor rate book for my business. Total bill was 506. 40. I ask how much is the rest of the recommended work. Brakes (rotors are OK), track bar, pitman arm, and upper lower ball joints he said little over 2,000. :-laf . I will try to see if any of the other codes reset on pump timing.

 

[hammersley]

I think that not all of the components are of

equal quality, i. e. they use certain suppliers and they have a bin of parts - and you may have a good batch and you may not. I think that is a crap shoot for us. It would be interesting if you could match the vehicles with component batch failure rates. That would tell you if certain suppliers and or plants are providing what we want... ... .

 

[The Adjuster]

Have 153K miles on mine and still have the original upper's and lower's, mine is a 2WD though ... but I know I am going to have to DE-rivot the old girl one day in the future, but just had the front end aligned and the service guy said it all looked good, no play and should be good for a while. Oo.





Wouldn't the pump timing be a warranty issue?





Kevin

 

[Supermod56]

These things are hard on front end parts due to the weight of the Cummins, I think it's almost 1,100 lbs. The track bar sucks, had the dealer replace mine under warranty. It was all you could do to keep it "between the lines"!! There is a retrofit kit available so you can use the 2003-up track bar which has rubber bushings vs. the rod-end type that is stock. I'm going to do that and the steering box stiffener. www.extremediesel.com has all the stuff. (I think)



PS: I have owned Ford and Chevy Diesels, I'll go ahead and keep my DODGE!!!



Tom



2001 2500 4X4 5-Spd. Laramie SLT LB Quad Cab Black. DD TTPM, DD Stage-1's, AFE, JAKE Brake, Bully-Dog 4" Exhaust, Geno's Banjos, Silencer ring MIA, 2nd(and last) lift pump, 3 Autometer's on the A-Pillar, Redline oil throughout.

 

[Chris N5CWM]

my experience so far..

I have about 65K miles on mine, and no problems whatsoever. I bought it new July 7th of 2001 and within 3,000 miles had gauges, and an Edge '3 light' box (early model, before the COMP came out). I'm still on the original shocks, brakes, clutch, U joints, front suspension parts (one alignment so far at about 50K miles). Second set of tires and I went with the same as stock, Michelin LTX AS since I'm happy with the wet weather performance, ride and that they are quiet. I rarely off-road so I don't need agressive tires. Original lift pump too. Truck doesn't wear the front tires or have any steering pull or braking pull. The only thing I am worried about is the air conditioning system. I needed to be charged this summer and it's starting to cycle frequently again. I'm almost positive it's the evaporator behind the dash too based on what I've read here.



Overall I'm very happy with my Ram. I'm not hard on it but I don't baby it either. About 90% of the miles are from commuting to and from work, a couple of 2,500 mile round trips to North Carolina and Dayton Ohio over the past 3 years. I've towed my Baja 25 Outlaw, about 6,000 lbs boat and trailer, a few times to Lake Travis (Austin TX, about 600 miles round trip) and a rental 28 Ft travel trailer to Kerrville for the LSTDR rally a couple years ago. Amsoil in the engine, trans, and axles since almost new.

I plan on keeping it for quite a while and I hate putting all the miles on it just commuting to work but at least they're easy miles. When I do decide to sell this truck, whoever buys it is going to get a well taken care of truck.

 

[AKAMAC]

114. 70 lubricant

270. 00 labor for the diff's and transfer case.



I service my Lull rough terrain forklifts so I am not stupid. Just dumb when it came to saying yes. Can't wait to look if he removed the diff covers in daylight. My guess is they didn't they may have sucked it through the fill plug. They said "Swap fuel filter and bleed system" :-laf I never did when I changed them, ten minute deal. I do understand profit and labor rates as I have a union bricklaying company. Wish I had a labor rate book for my business. Total bill was 506. 40. I ask how much is the rest of the recommended work. Brakes (rotors are OK), track bar, pitman arm, and upper lower ball joints he said little over 2,000. :-laf . I will try to see if any of the other codes reset on pump timing.

What? Are you kidding?



I saw the code reference now..... You are in warranty and there should be no questions asked about VP repacement. I feel like I'm reading a diesel stop post. John, I asked you "not" to post! Now my BP is up, my dog is crying because I kicked her and I can't proof read this because I threw a beer at the monitor. Thanks Mike :-laf



What were the codes?

 

[The Adjuster]

Mike ... can I come on over and lick your monitor ... :-laf . . waste not - want not . . LOL



Kevin

 

[diesel DOG]

Have 153K miles on mine and still have the original upper's and lower's, mine is a 2WD though ... but I know I am going to have to DE-rivot the old girl one day in the future, but just had the front end aligned and the service guy said it all looked good, no play and should be good for a while. Oo.





Wouldn't the pump timing be a warranty issue?





Kevin

Yes, I have to see if they even did it. I have 100,000 on the engine / powertrain. I have my regular guy check it all today. I can pick it up with my forklift at work and take a look myself at the front end.



Where is a good place to buy ball joints, track bar, and pitman arm? I have a Corvette that I road race and I buy the parts from a dealer in Nebraska which is fast a cheap. I checked the link for the track bar but didn't see it. Who else sells suspension items? I glanced through the TDR monthly but didn'y see anything except needle bearing track bar for up to 2000 it was from Borgeson.

 

[BigMike]

I've got 96k miles on my '99 and have replaced the LP at about 80k and am on the 3rd set of front brakes. Otherwise, I feel pretty good about mine, especially after hearing the horror stories from Ford owners. Maybe you got a lemon. I don't think your experience is typical! Bummer.

 

[diesel DOG]

The finale results are Ball Joints are shot. Track Bar movement is zero, pitman arm almost zero movement. Brakes shot after 14,000 they were PFC from Auto Zone so they didn't last like the two sets of OEM that went 23,000 each which I was happy with. I am rough on brakes. I will replace ball joints and bang some more miles on it. Any recommendations on ball joint or are the all about the same? I feel better that everything wasn't shot. Guess the shocks will go as long as I'm in there. Bilsteins? Good place to buy them?





Thanks for your help.



I looked on Rockauto.com and I see Moog or ACDelco ball joints any tips they were about 66 & 131 respectively.



thanks