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Rear AntiLock Brake Light

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The rear AntiLock Brake (amber) and Brake (red) lights on my 93 4X4 have starting coming on after starting. I unplugged and replugged the module located behind the glove box but it didn't have any effect on the problem. The lights go through the prestart test okay but then come on a few seconds later.



The lights stay on continuously while driving but will often go out after I have driven a few miles, stopped, and restarted. The brakes seem to be functioning correctly. Fluid levels are normal.



Any suggestions?



Sincerely, Pete!!!
 
I had a similar problem like this in my 89 about two years ago. Everything worked fine and fluid levels were O. k. For me, one of the rear wheel speed sensor wires was begining to fray. If you look by your RWAL module, there should be a single wire in the harness for the module. When the lights are on in the dash, take a piece of wire or a screwdriver and ground that wire. The lights in the dash will then flash a diagnostic code. These codes are listed in the service manual, as well as Haynes manual. Could be a number of things. If you don't have a manual, PM me with the number it reads out and I'll check in my book for you. Hope this helps.



Dustin
 
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Also low battery voltage. Anytime I work on my truck without unplugging under hood light for 30 mintutes or more i get brake and abs warning lights. Drive for a while and turn off and restart its gone. Lots of autos do this,G. M. products,Isuzu etc. they have a minimum voltage requirment!Mine will turn over and start but battery is down and not putting out enough voltage. See EFI gas engines turn over many times with a rough run sputter cold complaint and a new battery fix it. Take old battery put in a smaller carb type auto and use it another year or more. But voltage was to low for late model EFI. I think the break point is around 11 volts. Can watch this on a voltage test while cranking. The battery in my truck is not the specified cca,its too low. Waiting on after Christmas funds,you know what i mean;)
 
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Pete, My lights stayed on all the time and the right, back wheels locked up. I bought the sensor on top of the diff. ($103. ). Five minutes to put in. Had to stomp on the brakes the other morning and they worked like they are supposed to. It's the cheapest part to buy and it worked for me. Hope this helps you. Rich
 
My lights were staying on a while back and I found out that there was a vacuum pod on the driver side fender right below the hood spring that has a small vacuum line going to it and a few wires in a harness that plug in it. I unplug the wire harness and the lights went off. I took the pod off the fender and took it apart and found that it had a hard plastic filler in the back of the pod that had cracks in it and that moisture was getting in it and making the lights come on. I put some silicone over the cracks and the lights have never come on again.
 
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Thanks for the prompt replies. I just put in a new battery and it has plenty of power. I'll check around the booster and take a close look at the real axle sensor. After searching the message boards, it appears the sensor has a history of causing problems. As soon as I find time to check everything out, I'll post a reply.



Sincerely.



Pete!!!
 
Problem Fixed

Thanks to everyone who replied to my rear antilock brake light problem. I went to the local Dodge parts office and picked up the rear speed sensor. Quickly replaced the old unit and haven't seen the light come on since. Certainly an easy fix. Too bad the parts are always so darn expensive!



Sincerely, Pete!!!
 
yesterday when I went to replace the bulbs in the message center that were not working I found that the sockets and bulbs were missing out of the ABS and Brake positions, today I got sockets and replaced, of course they come on and stay on. I now have the 9 flash sequence, it's raing to hard to climb under but I will check the wiring, is there a way to check the sensor? I called autozone just in case, they have one for $29. 95... I stopped at autozone this evening, pretty junky looking device and it has three wires and nothing in the instructions about what to do with the unused one, there was also 1 mm of play on the pickup that hangs down from the plastic housing which seems pretty excessive given the gap clearances in the manual. Anybody use one? I left it there pending better advice.....
 
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RGT...



Code 9 is for rear wheel speed sensor. Easiest way to fix problem is simply replacing the sensor, but you can do a visual inspection off the wiring for the sensor before replacing it. Make sure to check connectors for terminal corrosion. I'm currently unaware of a way to test the sensor to see if it's O. k. Hope this helps.



Dustin
 
I ended up getting the dealer item $90 with tax. ABS and brake lights went out and stayed out. locked 'em up on an icy parking lock and could feel a rapid thumping so I guess my problem is solved... ...

Before getting the new one I had pulled apart the connection several times the contacts showed no signs of being corroded or fouled, I did put the connection togethor with dielectric grease
 
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Anti Lock Brake Light Stays on

I too have the anti-lock brake light staying on. My 4 wire connector at the hydraulic valve at the rear wheels has corroded the wires into. Does any one have the correct way to splice the wires back together. Some of them are different colors on each side of the plug.
 
Guys, one of the most common problems with that is the darn connection. When you replace the sensor you also mess with that connection and probably firm it up in the process.

Just try using some electrical contact cleaner, then blow it dry and use dielectric grease on it. Put back together and see if that fixes the problem. If it does it's dirt cheap and you haven't blown some cash. If it doesn't then you know that the sensor is the most likely culprit and can feel good about dropping some $$ on a new one.

You can have sensor input malfunction if the connector is dirty, bad or just corroded.



Bob
 
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