2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear axle oil seal

[BadDNA]

So, I'm under the truck last night and I notice that the inside of one of my rear tires is covered in some fluid that appears to be dripping out from the brake drum. I just had the brakes fully serviced including new wheel cylinders so I'm fairly confident without removing the drum that the fluid is gear lube, leaking from the inboard axle seal. I'm tempted to attempt R&R on my own but wanted to make sure I'm not getting myself in over my head before I take the truck apart. Can anyone who has done this give me any tips "gotchas" or advice including any special tools I may need.



Thanks,

-Eammon

 

[shorty2500]

if you are leaking gear oil in the drum, your shoes are probably worthless now.



i had to change one of my rear axle seals a few months ago, and it was somewhat involved. i had a couple of buddies help me. having done it once, i feel like i could do it again alone.



it doesn't require any special tools, but you have to be careful putting the new seal in. it can easily go in crooked unless you use a press. the biggest time waster for me was having to undo and redo the rear brake assembly and remove two broken bolts from the hub. i don't think you'll have to remove all of that stuff like i did. if you do, just use the other side for reference when reconnecting the brake parts. they are color coded for quick identification.



good luck.

 

[McCRam]

This is a fairly easy job. Sometimes the drum can be harf to get off , but a rubber mallet should do the job. I spent most of my time cleaning all the oil out.

 

[BadDNA]

Well, I just did the rear brakes a month or so back, the drum shouldn't be a problem. I just wish I'd known then I was leaking and had the opportunity to do something about it while I already had it apart.



How about large sockets? Right now the biggest in my collection is an 1-1/8 if I remember correctly, but everything on this truck is monster sized. Does anyone know what size socet I'll need back there?

 

[TFabian]

The large nut that holds the hub on is a 2 9/16" socket. It is a specialty socket that has rounded corners. I picked one up at a local auto parts store for about $20.

 

[BadDNA]

How about losing fluid? If I jack up just the side I'm working on, should I lose much of the diff fluid?

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Eammon: The fluid loss will be minimal if you jack up the truck high enough on the side you're working on.



Sounds like '98 model year trucks that are Intense Blue are all having hub seal problems all at once... my hub seal on the right side is leaking on my '98 as well. :-laf



Matt

 

[BadDNA]

Sounds good, now... parts, probably from Fenton Dodge in MI. I ordered my socket from these guys (http://thetoolwarehouse.net/) yesterday and it was delivered today. I think I've found a new place to look anytime I need a specialty tool.

 

[DBranzovsky]

It's not that diffucult to replace the seal and if you are lucky the drum brake will not be saturated with differential oil. Just take emery cloth and "sand" the brake pads. If you can take away the discoloration on the pad, you are okay. Also clean up all springs and surrounding areas with brake clean, and dry with shop air. Good luck.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Eammon: Did you do the seal yet?



I'm going to dive into mine tonight...



Matt

 

[BadDNA]

Actually, I'll be diving in myself on Sunday. Been collecting tools and parts for the past week or so.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Cool. Good luck!



I just hope I can get my brake drum off without having to #@^% with the drum or brake adjuster...



Matt

 

[BadDNA]

I hear you there, what a PITA it is getting that readjusted right after you have to mess with it.

 

[Joe Mc]

A little tip that works for me for ease installing the seal and ensuring it seals to the housing.



Before you install the new seal make sure the axle housing is cleaned w/some kind of solvent. Coat the metal outside ring of the seal and mating surface of the housing lightly w/blue goo (silicon perma-gasket), smooth off until there is only a little remaining. Install seal - you will see a small amount of blue ooze out out the area between the seal outer surface and housing, flatten it down with your finger like caulking a tub.



This reduces possibility of a leak related to a minor imperfection in the new seal's outer diameter or, if theres a gouge in the housing.



A few moments of detail with preparation is often not noticed, however, if not performed/hastily installed often times is immediately apparent. MHO

 

[BadDNA]

Thanks for the tips Joe Mc and everyone else, people like you are just one reason I love this place.

 

[BadDNA]

So Matt, how'd yours go? I had to put mine off a week because of a couple things but I just got finished this afternoon. Total time from rolling out the jack to putting the last tool away, 2. 5 hours. This was by far one of the easiest jobs I've done on the truck yet. I can't believe how simple it was.

 

[HoleshotHolset]

Mine was a bit of a PITA...



The RR drum on my '98 has NEVER been separated from the hub since it was assembled at the factory. It still had/has the little sheet metal 'quick-nuts' on there that hold the drum to the hub while it rolls down the assembly line.



A 3-lb. hammer wouldn't budge it.



So - I took the drum/hub off as one big piece.



About 5 cans of Brakleen later - everything was clean and ready to rock. I didn't have a seal puller... so I fiddled with that until I decided to just whack the inner bearing/seal out in one step.



All seems somewhat okay so far... stay tuned, though. The brakes feel awefully 'grabby' - almost as if there's oil in there again.



I'm not even going to take the wheel off again until I have oil coming out. Next time - I'm going to 'borrow' someone's garage. Racing daylight in a parking lot with basic hand tools isn't fun.



Matt

 

[BadDNA]

:{ Leaking again! I did everything by the book, used new parts where i was supposed to etc. Man, I'm a little frosted now.

 

[JKinney]

I just did a rear drum seal on my F600 (chick magnet) As per the other posts clean all your brake parts with parts cleaner etc. When you get the new seal throw it in the freezer for 20 min or so and get your what ever your gona use ready to drive it inready and beside the job. It should go easy. When I did my wheel bearings on my bmw, I had to heat the hubs and freeze the bearings and they still drove on real tough.

 

[rrausch]

If you have trouble getting the drum off do this: You have to jack the rear up so that both tires are off the ground. Remove tires & wheels but put one lug nut back on each side to hold the drum on. Then get in, start the engine, put it in gear and allow the rear drums to turn a bit, then put on the brakes. Check to see if the drums are loose. If not repeat until they loosen up. This works great and I learned this tip on this site!!