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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear axle proportioning valve/ height sensing valve

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission A Couple questions?

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Has anyone removed the "height sensing valve"(proportioning valve) from a 98 2500? The TSB, http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1998/05-04-98.htm was published in 98 and mine is rusted to junk so my first reaction is to bypass it, but would be good to hear from folks with experience.

Thanks all info.
 
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Hi Just might do a search on that ,I remember something from a while back.

They might of just been trying to adjust it though .

May I ask what the beneifit of not replacing it would be?

Besides money.



I personally would replace it , JMHO
 
Replace is an option, but I think it stopped working before I got it. I never noticed a problem with rear wheel lock up. It works off a lever that activates the valve as the bed settles under load.

The brake hose that connects the "valve" to the two rear wheels is pressed into a fitting that connects to the two brake lines to the rear wheels and also contains the axle vent fitting. If the brake hose were threaded instead of pressed it would be a 5 min job.

On the frame rail side the brake line feeding the valve disapears into the frame along the gas tank.

Without the device the rear wheels get more braking pressure, when the truck is loaded, without it they get more pressure all the time. (TSB 05-04-98),

The bypass takes one hose. (NAPA 38576)

Not sure how much use the device is. So I thought someone might have tried the TSB already.

Thanks
 
Since I run air bags and my truck is heavy I removed the rod and zip tied the lever up and noticed much better breaking. My truck is at or near the GVWR of 8800 when fully fueled (150 gal. ). I don't know how it would act if it was empty like before I started towing and had an empty bed (a little over 7k lbs. ) I never did get around to getting the hose to replace the valve with.
 
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Thanks, I'm going to have to replace or bypass because the brake line that is part of the height sensing proportioning valve has rusted through.

Thanks for the reply.
 
Removed Brake Proportioning Valve!

GKarpen said:
I have been thinking of this myself. I bought the EGR brake conversion for the rear and I asked this same question of them. They recommended that the valve be kept in place as braking would be effected by removing it negatively. I have not seen that TSB on it however. I would be very interested in what you discover on this venture.

I removed my bpv. years ago and finally felt i had brakes. The egr upgrade upgraded it further.
 
I cut the rod on mine & welded 3\8' rod coupling onto it. I experimented a bit & found by lengthening it by about 2" the rears work better but still don't lock up. If I didn't commute in Seattle commuter traffic daily I would have tied the thing straight up & saw how it performed. I was a bit afraid of the rear passing the front of the truck on the wet Seattle interstates so I stopped there FWIW.



Clay
 
I have mine zip tied all the way up. If I really slam hard on the brakes, the rear tires will lock up, but I'm talking panic stop situation.
 
Nate said:
I have mine zip tied all the way up. If I really slam hard on the brakes, the rear tires will lock up, but I'm talking panic stop situation.

Prior to bypassing the bpv,the only lockup I ever experienced was in Ensenada on a gravel covered road. Rears were adjusted properly. Pretty pitiful.
 
Proportioning Valve

Removed and replaced mine with the bypass, as recommended in the TSB. Also replaced the brake cylinders with larger ones, based upon a TDR thread. Absolutely no problems, and the brakes are MUCH better. Still, never been able to lock up my rear brakes after the changes.

Frank Dz
 
Frank, are you usually loaded or empty?

Also wonder how the ABS fits in, seems like that would stop a lock up.

While I am at it I guess I'll replace the rear wheel brake lines. Salt belt truck.
 
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