Rear axle seal replacement??

[The patriot]

How hard is it to replace a rear axle seal? I've done my own when I was on owner operator, but only on the trailer. Never done the tractor.
Are any special tools needed? How long would this take? Any suggestions on a specific brand of seal? Maybe a part# ?
What I thought was a leaky wheel cylinder appears to be an axle seal.
TIA
Eric

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 265 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

[cumminsgetme]

It's not hard to replace at all... . but the seal will more than likely be a b***h to get out. Removing the old seal was definately the biggest challenge. I didn't use any special tools... but also ended up destroying the old seal when trying to remove. I wound up having to punch a screw driver through the old seal and pry it out. I didn't have any trouble getting the new one in. It took me about an hour to replace it. I used a Mopar seal.

[This message has been edited by cumminsgetme (edited 05-02-2001). ]

 

[DBCooper]

I just replaced mine this past week. The job is much easier than on a GM full floater. The biggest problem I had was getting the actual seal. NAPA has several listings for it. I ended up with one that at first sight looks very different than the one on the truck. I just measured the very outside dia. of the metal case on the new seal and the dia. of the hub where it sits. I also made sure the inside dia. of the seal itself was the same as the spindle. They all worked out, so on went the new seal. I ended up destroying the old seal, but got it out buy putting the hub upside down in a vice and prying the old seal out. Tapping the new seal in went well, just run around the ring lightly tapping it in. All in all a nice job due to the ability to take the brake drum loose from the hub so easily.
I would give you the part number to the seal, but I don't have it any more (long story) Just don't panic if it doesn't look identical to the one from the factory.
Good luck. Dan
By the way, look for about an hour for time and the seal was a Chicago Rawhide
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'98 QC 4X4 LWB Auto, 3. 54 LS's Leveled with 2" Skyjackers in the front, and bone stock everything else... so far.

[This message has been edited by DBCooper (edited 05-02-2001). ]

 

[sam peterson]

The part number is C/R 30033 for the rear seal. It can be interchanged into other brands. Use some silicone sealer on the outer edge of the seal when you install it into the hub. Lots of leaks occur there instead of the seal lip---Sam

[This message has been edited by sam peterson (edited 05-03-2001). ]

 

[illflem]

Farmers trick for removing this type of seal. Drill a small hole in the metal part of the seal then screw in a self tapping screw, a sheetrock screw works well, you can then usually pull out the screw along with the seal with a pair of pliers. A seal puller works well also if you have one.

 

[The patriot]

Thanks guys. I added oil to the rear, and drove it a mile or two. It isnt showing any leakage yet, but I'm certain this is the leak. It may have been leaking for a while. I just noticed it be accident. I'd guess the rear took about 10-12 Oz. I was on a slight incline, so I probibally added more than actually leaked.
I'll get to it tomorrow.
Eric

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 265 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

[Cooker]

Don't forget to pick up new brake shoes. If the axle seal leaked and contaminated the shoes, there is no cleaning them (I tried it).

The most difficult part is finding the right socket to remove the spindle nut. After that IMO the task was easy.

Here are two links that may be worth a read before you get started:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum17/HTML/001529.html
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/ubb//Forum1/HTML/003172.html

 

[The patriot]

Thanks cooker. Good info. At first I thought I'd *F* up the seal more by filling a little extra in the diff. I'm not worried now.
Eric

 

[The patriot]

Sorry if I'm beating a dead horse here, but can somebody tell me if I bought the right seal? I got a National (didnt have CR) part # 455086. I have the Dana 80 axle. 13X2. 5" brakes, if this matters.
The dealer DOES NOT HAVE A PART # ON THIS!!!
He told me that when he started there, they had a mountain of axles out back. They replaced the whole axle!!!! #ad

I bought this from a parts store, and the people behind the counter seemed to be extremely inept. I'd hate to get this apart just to find out it's the wrong one. I got it from the inept guys bacause they were the only people that didnt have to order it.
TIA
Eric

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98 Quad cab 4X4 2500 12 valve,5 speed,3. 54 rears, 8' bed. Michelin 265 75 16 lr-E. Boost and egt gauges but basicly stock except for a "properly adjusted" AFC. Cat in the garage. Uniden HR 2510, Texas Star 1200 amp. 63,000 Mi as of 1/27/01.
NRA life member. High power/IDPA.

 

[cumminsgetme]

My parts guy said, "I think it's this one... well could be this one too... hell just take em' all and bring back what you don't use. " None of the seals he gave me looked anything like my original seal. Be sure to check i. d. and o. d... . It hasen't leaked since so I guess I chose my seal wisely #ad


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94' 2wd,5spd,#5TST,15%pump mod,K&N,imellmoke

 

[The patriot]

The one I got is just under 3" ID(2. 8 or 9 something) and 4. 257 OD, more or less.
anybody know if this is it??
Eric

 

[cumminsgetme]

I can't remember off hand, but that sounds about right. If you decide to tear in to it you will be able to get an I. D. and O. D. from your existing seal without having to actually remove it. It should only take about 30 minutes to tear it down and compare dia's.


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94' 2wd,5spd,#5TST,15%pump mod,K&N,imellmoke

 

[drives mopars]

pull outter bearing out 1st

then put nut back on

reinstall drum over nut and pull
using nut as a seal remover

only takes 30 seconds to do
but will ruin seal

mopar up guys

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1993 w350 ex cab, banks,nv 4500 in
open exaust, pw Injectors are in. Big rig flaps,tach in,. Its loud and goes ok, for a 93,Ham radio Call KK6dm
has ability to communicate any where in the world. Headliner shelf
5 antenna's

 

[sam peterson]

Nat 455086 is the correct number. I just put some in last week. ---Sam

 

[The patriot]

Thanks Sam. You da man. #ad
#ad

Eric

 

[1tuffram]

I had both rear seals go out and contaminate the brake shoes. Seals covered under warranty, dealer said brake shoes not. I thought this BS since the warranted seals caused my brakes "to be ruined" according to the dealer. Shoes still had plenty of life left, so the service & warranty depts managers & myself had a difference of opinions on what should be repaired under warranty. Dealer wanted to charge same price to ONLY install a set of brake shoes as brake shops charged for a "complete brake job". Dealer also said the brake shoes come with NO warranty and the dealership would NOT stand behind thier workmanship (basically I was S. O. L. if anything happened once truck rolled out shop door), unlike the brake shops I got quotes from. With this in mind I told the dealer to replace the seals and I would take my $$ elswhere for the brakes. They cleaned up the shoes with brake cleaner and steamed the drums clean. Guess what, that was over 35,000 miles ago and the same brake shoes are still on truck. I have 67,000 miles on the odometer and the same factory brake pads/shoes. Moral of the story is don't assume the shoes are shot because gear-lube got on them.

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'95 2500 SLT 5 speed 4x4

 

[sam peterson]

1tufram--When gearoil and brake fluid soak into the shoes if changes the friction rating of the lining. It can cause grabbing or just plain no gripping. Unless the shoes hadn't got a chance to soakup the oil I dought you have the stopping ability you should.

 

[1tuffram]

Sam your're right. The first thing which made me aware of a problem was the brakes being a bit "grabby" the first stop of the day, seemed to be worse if it was or had rained. Dealer said I probably caught the problem soon enough before the shoes had a chance to soak up too much lube. They cleaned each side with 2 cans brake cleaner after replacing the seals.

Last tire rotation I inspected the brake shoes and they where looking pretty thin. I need to replace them soon. I see you recommend Carbomet pads for the front, any recommendations for shoes?? I actually what to do both front and rear brakes, flush the brake lines, etc. I have several questions so I will probably shoot you an e-mail. I've never done any brake work of any kind, but would like to try and do this myself.

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'95 2500 SLT 5 speed 4x4

 

[The patriot]

Yes, I cleaned mine, and they looked OK. I used carb cleaner, all the same stuff, acetone.
Still not leaking yet, but when it does, I have a new seal waiting.
I never seen anything like this. Looks like it's leaking,(thought it was brake fluid at first) so I pull it apart, clean it up,(I now had a wheel cylinder but no wheel seal) add gear oil. No more leak??? #ad

I'll watch it for a while
Eric

 

[sam peterson]

Patriot--Carb cleaner may cause you some future problems. Some brands can cause deterioration of rubber parts and may create a leak in the seals or cylinders. Stay with brake cleaner or Hot water.