Rear axle seal replacement??

[sam peterson]

1tuffram===I'l be waiting for your e-mail or you can reach me during the week at 360/357-4958 from 8. 30 to 5. 30.

 

[Rich]

you can clean oil out of rear brakes if you use denatured alchohol and a clean cotten cloth soak the cloth and it will suck the oil out same stuff you use to flush brake lines out works well can buy at hardware store

 

[JGK]

I started experiencing the grabby brake syndrome at parking lot speeds a few weeks ago on the left rear and suspected the seal. Last Sunday I pulled the drum an sure enough, oil everywhere. I considered doing the job myself until I realized I still had some mileage left on the extended warranty. So to save time I let the local Dodge boys do it yesterday. It surprised me cuz the bill only came to $71 ($21 for seal and gasket, about $50 for labor, though I only had to pay the $50 deductible).



But here's my issue: I checked out what's involved by reading through the big green service book. It said I'd have to drain the diff. and pull the axle shaft. And the pictures in the book didn't really look like my rig. I have about a 3-inch diameter hub with an end cap held on by 8 bolts. This has the 8 studs that the brake drum and wheel bolt up to. The book doesn't show or mention this hub assembly. My thought was if the axle shaft had to be pulled as indicated, the cost would have been higher (gear lube, time to drain and pull the diff. cover, etc. ). So it appears they did the job without having to do that.



Those of you you've tackled the job, what's the procedure? Can the seal be replaced without pulling the axle shaft? What's the story with that hub assembly?



Thanks in advance,

Jay

 

[Cooker]

It isn't that difficult a job to do, IMO. You do not have to drain the gear lube, you can jack the truck up to one side so it doesnt; run out. Yes you do need to pull the axleshaft and hub assembly.



As far as the cost goes, $71 is what the dealer is billing DC for (actually the $21 after your $50 deductible). If you paid out of your pocket it would have been considerably more. The dealer doen't bill DC for normal cost the consumer would have paid, but a discounted cost for labor and obviously a discount on the parts too.



-Ryan

 

[JGK]

Ryan,



Well that explains the dollars. I thought that was rather cheap - a totally uncharacteristic amount for this type of job.



But back to pulling the axle. I don't have the manual with me here at work for specifics, but it said to pull it, the diff. cover had to be removed and a bolt removed that held a retainer of some kind (pinion lock?). Then the shaft pushed into the diff. a bit so a "C" clip could be removed from the end of the shaft. Then the shaft could be pulled from the axle housing.



What can you tell me about this?



Thanks for your replies.



Jay

 

[Deezul1]

I believe you are looking at the wrong rearend procedure. Unless this Dana 80 is different than any other floating axle rear end I have worked on. The 8 small bolts that look like they are holding a cap on are actually holding the axle in, that cap is the end of the axle. Pull the 8 bolts and the axle slides right out. do one side at a time so when that side is jacked up higher than the other side no oil will run out. After the axle is out you will find a big nut in there that holds the bearings that the rear hub rotates on, just like a front wheel bearing assembly but bigger.

Good Luck

 

[JGK]

Deezul 1,



AHH! That's what I wanted to hear. I kind of suspected that when Ryan did not mention going in to the diff.



I'm going to check the manual again to see if I can find my setup. But I looked at that thing for an hour before pulling the wheel and drum. Me thinks the publisher missed this part, or it's hidden someplace in the book. I'm thinking they covered the 1/2 ton and called it good.



Thanks again, guys.

Jay