2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Rear Axle Seals

[JKuhnhenn]

I have just reveiwed the past threads on this ongoing problem and wanted to see if there had been any real fix for leaking rear axle seals. This is my third time (80,000 miles on the truck) replacing the seals and the brake pads. I tow an 11,000 lb fifth wheel trailer, am I destined to be forever replacing rear axle seals? Any new insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[parcher]

In the Federal Mogul catalog there is 1 page with seal savers. These are very thin stainless steel bands that are installed over the surface that the seal rides on, These are listed by dimension not application so you'll have to measure first. They come with an installation tool which will NOT work on a rear axle so you'll have to improvise. I did this to my 85 and to a members 96 with great results, the end of torn up seals. The folks at Dana/Spicer turned me on to these.

 

[Steve Campbell]

a few questions first....

1) what does the surface being sealed look like? Are there any imperfections (nicks or groves worn) in the axle tube?



To solve a axle sealing surface problem... . buy a speedy sleeve.





2) What do your axle nuts look like? Are they still "new looking" on the business side or does it look like the bearing has been "grinding" away at part of the parent metal of the nut?



A couple of things here.....

~~~(I am about 90% confident that if you have this problem, the following will work)~~~

..... If the nut looks "ground" upon, then the wheel bearings have been set too loose. I have had more axle seals fail from "loose" bearings than any other problem.

A..... You can buy a new nylock nut from NAPA (or other parts supplier) and a hardened washer (optional) and install the hardened washer on the bearing side~~~Now the important part~~~making sure to eliminate "all" of the play (just barely) in the wheel bearings (I will catch some flack for that statement) and then reinstall the locking clip.

B..... I saw a web site on this bullitin board that sold a double nut and locking washer set-up like the "old" full floating axles before the nylock nut "fix" came out. The "tightness of the bearings" still applies. Some like that set-up better.



Good luck

 

[jimk]

Re: a few questions first....

Originally posted by Steve Campbell

1) what does the surface being sealed look like? Are there any imperfections (nicks or groves worn) in the axle tube?



To solve a axle sealing surface problem... . buy a speedy sleeve.





2) What do your axle nuts look like? Are they still "new looking" on the business side or does it look like the bearing has been "grinding" away at part of the parent metal of the nut?



A couple of things here.....

~(I am about 90% confident that if you have this problem, the following will work)~

..... If the nut looks "ground" upon, then the wheel bearings have been set too loose. I have had more axle seals fail from "loose" bearings than any other problem.

A..... You can buy a new nylock nut from NAPA (or other parts supplier) and a hardened washer (optional) and install the hardened washer on the bearing side~ the important part~ sure to eliminate "all" of the play (just barely) in the wheel bearings (I will catch some flack for that statement) and then reinstall the locking clip.

B..... I saw a web site on this bullitin board that sold a double nut and locking washer set-up like the "old" full floating axles before the nylock nut "fix" came out. The "tightness of the bearings" still applies. Some like that set-up better.



Good luck

I think that I would check the breather also as if it stops up then you will have problems keeping seals from leaking. Don't EVER reuse the nylock nut, to do so is asking for it. To do so can result in the hub coming off and wiping out in the threads on the housing. That can be fixed and I have done so but you have to have a jig and know how to weld. Search the forums and you can find the part numbers to go back to the double locking nuts. Are you using a driver to install the seal? Is the seal running dry for a while? I don't remember if the seal has teflon or not. Cummins uses these seals and they are installed dry. If not then use a little grease or gear oil.



I also put a little grease on the bearings also. Just a little. I was told that the proper level was lowered to keep the seals from leaking by the factory . But after many miles of use the lower level was harder on the bearings. I use a little sealer on the back side of the seal. The surface needs to be free of nicks or gouges. Speed sleeve or what ever brand you wont to use helps correct that problem. One trick is to fill in the bad spots with devcon and sand it smooth first then install the sleve to keep make the sleeve last longer. I set the end play with a dial indicator because I had one handy. I don't recommend overfilling the axle housing either with gear oil. I filled to just run out of the housing. good luck, ask around to be sure Jim

 

[chrleb1]

most likely the ones on there are single lip seals. They is a replacement for those that is a double lip seal, they last much longer.