Rear brake adjustment nightmare (and question)

[Stranger]

Tightening sequence

This is what I do. (Might be overkill but, I've yet to have a loose wheel. )



First, use a good anti-sieze, small amount per lug; the grey Permatex stuff works great.



Then, center the wheel on the hub and using a 10 inch extension with appropriate socket, run all the lugs up finger tight.



On the front wheels you don't need the extension but, for duals you do. (Remember to add 10% to your torque value if using a 10 inch extension. To compensate for flex in the extension. )



Then put a block or chock under the tire so the wheel won't turn while torquing; torque to 80 ft lbs. Torque one, skip two, torque, skip two in a clockwise manner.



After torquing all 8 to 80 lbs, re-set the torque wrench to 110 ft lbs and re-do you might start with a lug that is one removed from the one you previously used as #1.



Then re-set the TW to 140 lbs and repeat. Move to the next wheel.



In theory the three-step torquing prevents warped wheels and drums or discs. Also, if you put a small amount of anti-sieze on the bevel of the lug nut you don't gall the bevel.



PS. I've done this with 4 different 1-tons, 2-14K Fifth wheels and a 10K Stock trailer; and I've never had to replace a wheel or lugnut, also not had a lug come loose.

 

[John]

Whoa!

Originally posted by Stranger

First, use a good anti-sieze, small amount per lug; the grey Permatex stuff works great.

Do not use anti-sieze on the threads while torquing the lug nuts to the specified torque value. The torque specs. were calculated with an unplated thread, lightly oiled (i. e. , 30 weight oil), with the excess oil removed (i. e. , blotted up). The use of anti-sieze or a synthetic lubricant on the threads will change the friction characteristics, resulting in the overtightening (i. e. , over stretching) of the thread.



The use of a sequential, three step tightening process is a good one... I've been using it for years. Additionally, I recheck the torque the following day with aluminum wheels.

 

[Stranger]

OOPSIE !

OH.

Do not use anti-sieze on the threads while torquing the lug nuts to the specified torque value. The torque specs. were calculated with an unplated thread, lightly oiled (i. e. , 30 weight oil), with the excess oil removed (i. e. , blotted up). The use of anti-sieze or a synthetic lubricant on the threads will change the friction characteristics, resulting in the overtightening (i. e. , over stretching) of the thread.

 

[QRTRHRS]

Originally posted by John

Use one hydraulic floor jack (located under the differential) with a jack stand on either side of it. With the jack stands located just inboard of the shock mounts you have the required room to adjust the star wheels.

John, I thought about that but I am a little leery of using the floor jack as I have a Mag Hytec cover. My "lift pad" on the jack looks like it might do a number on it. Maybe I could weld up a cradle of some sort.

 

[adiabatic]

You don't need to add 10% to your torque settings when tightening lug nuts manually ie slowly.

Torque in equals torque out, even with a long extension (or any extension).

Sequential torquing is a good idea. Oddly my local tire shop puts antiseize on the threads, even though it is not spec'd. I ought to remove it.

 

[MidwestMotorman]

torquing

I believe you reduce torque 10-15% if you have lubed the fasteners or bolts. I usually add a little smear of grease to each wheel stud. It definitely keeps them from freezing tight. I always use an accurate torque wrench to tighten lug nuts.

 

[Chris N5CWM]

Where is this star wheel? I have disc brakes...

Hehehehe just poking some fun at ya guys.



My previous truck (3500) had drum brakes and

I adjusted them once after about 20k miles.

I thought I went too far so I backed out on

the adjuster a half turn and then did several

brake applications in a parking lot to adjust

them; my understanding is the brakes will

adjust when you apply the brakes firmly while

backing up.



-Chris

 

[John]

Originally posted by QRTRHRS

I am a little leery of using the floor jack as I have a Mag Hytec cover. My "lift pad" on the jack looks like it might do a number on it.

Here is what I do: I just use a small block of wood in the "pocket of the recessed, steel lift pad. Center the lift pad (and wood block) just ahead of the differential cover and jack up the whole back end of your Ram (assuming you floor jack is properly rated for the job). Ask anyone who knows me... there is NO WAY in he!! I'd resort to a shortcut that would place even a small mark on my Ram or any component thereof.



adiabatic is correct, torque is torque. An extension makes no difference in torque (as long as it is an extension of the centerline of the square drive axis and not something offset from the centerline of the square drive such as a crows foot etc. ). Also, there is NO reduction in torque setting if the stud is lightly oiled using regular engine oil with the excess blotted or wiped off... this is what the indusrty uses as a constant to develop torque specs.